Is there a reason you need this style connector?
What is the part number of the connector you want to use?
Reliability, and current rating.
See attached, I have to pull my wire to find the exact diameter, the matching male and female of this.
I bet I spend 80% of my time at work just fixing stuff like that from people that have no pride in what they do. Very frustrating.probably a good thing I opened these connectors up again before I wired them into the truck . . .
I am not an expert at soldering, but I do own a soldering iron and I do know that solder joints are supposed to have all the wires in them, and they aren't supposed to look like this . . .
:-/
Also, the o-rings in these connectors were not seated in any of the grooves, the one shown here is jammed up and away from the seating surface, meaning the connector was not water sealer to IP68 as it says it should be. . .
I think I am going to just run the wires using duetsch connectors.
I also think I am going to get a set of these boxes so I can have a single wire from the switch box under the hood per pair of lights that will be around the truck bed . . . Currently I have just one per side, until I get the chase light bar (replacement high mount third brake light and turn signals) mounted.
https://www.amazon.com/Smartsails-Waterproof-Electrical-Underground-Protection/dp/B07KPWRY4G/
I like.
JCR Engine cover, opted to sand and paint the top white to match the Yeti's body color ?
These might work for what you want to do. They are IP68, 12 awg and rated at 20A by the description for $14.92 with a 5% coupon from Amazon. Get some 2 conductor 12 awg cable and solder the wires and use some glued heat shrink on each wire, another over both wires long enough to seal the cable and it should be waterproof.
Sure did, ordered it same day you told me what you used! Perfect fit thanks again for the referral. I ordered the 3ft length and it was enough to do the top, and the oil cap hole with a little leftover ?
I've been getting my recent connectors for this store on Amazon: Amazon.com: JRready
Have you considered small gauge Anderson plugs? Since you're looking at quick disconnects.
The plug style I'm using come in 2, 3, 4, 6, 8, 12 pin versions, maybe a 10 pin too. I've using all but the 3 pin in the lighting install on my wife's Jeep. 12 between the power distribution block and the relay box, 6 pin between the relay controller box and the relay box. 8 pin at distribution to new chassis harness. 4 pins at each light. 2 pin at cargo and mud lights. And a 6 pin at the connections area with the rest of the connectors for the removable roof.Do they come in 5+ pin? I'll look tomorrow morning when I research @fjwlobo suggestions
Ten-day follow-up of this "traction aid"."Installed" the ShurTrax traction aid which was a pain because it kills crawling around on my knees, even on the BedRug (plus I'm a special snowflake, so ya know ...).
I cut 6 braided cords and placed four up front and two in the back. If it moves any, I'll add two more to the rear.
I filled it with 3 gallons of RV antifreeze and then probably 28-32 gallons of water. Not really sure, just filled it slowly until it looked about three inches thick.
https://www.amazon.com/dp/B000BV9MA2
gathered the stuff together on a lovely 36° afternoon, wrinkles mostly worked out overnight after leaving it inflated with air
precut lengths of braided cord and used the red funnel placed in their blue hose adapter to pour in the antifreeze. my slanted driveway and our poorly designed bed rake made the filler higher and allowed for a less sloppy fill job
their filler was a pain to thread on, but it works and comes with the basic kit (I didn't get their tie-down kit or super siphon), but the Super Siphon might be a time save come spring - it connects to the hose and creates a suction to empty the bladder
here it is filled and the material is pretty thick - I won't worry about puncturing it (they make a repair kit if you do) and I'll likely coat it with 303 Aerospace Protectant when I fold it away
tried to park level on the street to gauge how think it is, seems about right around 3 inches
I took out the gas can from the passenger front and snow chains from the driver front and made them even easier to reach. you know me, I love chains and if I see one flake, on they go! =p
Update: The Swingcases clear the bladder, phew! =)
Putting the suspension under a load will make it behave differently. In many cases it will feel better.Ten-day follow-up of this "traction aid".
Haven't had enough snow and ice to see what it does in that situation (although it's 25° and we had half an inch of snow overnight, so on my way to the office today, I'm gonna look for any icy spots to doe-brake turns on, I mean practice defensive driving.
Kate mentioned that the truck felt less bouncy and I think it's a tiny bit less bouncy, but nothing drastic - it's not riding like a 1980 Lincoln Continental! =D
Since Soupie's a scab, I have room for some groceries and they won't slide forward.
So far I like it, it stays put and it certainly was easier on my craptacular shoulders when compered to 80# tube sand! =)
morning condensation but not cold enough yet to see if it'll get slushy inside (massive frozen margarita!)
top view, the plastic bags are on the edge of the bladder but can't easily slide back, they'd have to go up about 2 inches to do so - looks closely, 2 bags of Cheetos, one's the flaming hot one that I'm addicted to ...
same trip with tonneau closed
Kate & I are addicted to a stoopid bottled tea at Trader Hippie's - note my healthy eating habits, I wonder if that's a factor in my diabetes? =p
