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Low RPM engine Lug rabbit hole

MountainGoat

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Unless there is a problem with the automatic transmission the Ranger does not lug whatsoever. That is the joyful thing about automatic transmissions. How you ask? Simple. This comes down to the fact that a automatic transmission is a hydraulic driven type device. A manual transmission is all mechanical. It's very hard to lug with a hydraulic driven device unless the hydraulic driven device AKA the transmission is having major problems
This sounds like one of those debunked fact check responses. Technically an automatic cannot lug because (different do-dads) so your Ranger running at 800rpm and shaking on an incline is not lugging. DEBOOOOOOKED!

They program them this way. Because they are trying to get to 58 mpg or whatever the rules are coming down the pipe. Now my old Tacoma with the 4cyl and 4-speed auto, that thing could LUG. 4th gear at 30mph with all the power of lawnmower. And it shook. And it didn't want to downshift unless you floored it. Everyone complained and they eventually had a recall iirc to program it differently, even for the 6 cyl! Terrible truck.
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JasonTremor

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For those that have the tools to do so, datalog rpm, load, throttle position, spark, selected gear and torque converter lockup and you will see what is going on at the time you experience the lugging feeling.

Not debating the definition of lugging here, but those data points will give you an idea of what all is going on at that point in time.
 

Frenchy

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He has always been that way.

A kindred spirit. That and reminding @Frenchy that old man EMU products suck just to troll him never gets old.
Your just jealous because they don't make them for your new Cheby
 


JimJ

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My suggestion is just drop it into S when you are in those low RPM situations.
I’ve been doing that since it came off the lot. I drop mine into S mode as soon as I slow coming into town at 45 and keep it S mode until I’m back above 50
 

Phantomfixer

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Thanks for all the responses except this one. I really appreciate the input it's much easier to ask and hear others experiences and what they may have discovered with what they have changed with their trucks already opposed to going through my own trial and error. It may be right that simply using T/H mode or Sport may be the simple answer. I am planning for the next set of tires as the current ones wear out.

I am glad you are an expert Frenchy, I will ask you never. Life is much easier when you are less angry. I wish you peace and happiness. Cheers.
Don’t you just love it when you ask a question and you get an answer like that?
 

scarchild35

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I’ve been doing that since it came off the lot. I drop mine into S mode as soon as I slow coming into town at 45 and keep it S mode until I’m back above 50
Yes, I do that sometimes too. It depends really. I honestly don't have that much trouble unless I'm in heavy highway traffic but yeah, S mode is great. Sometimes I put it in S mode when pulling out into traffic too. It's fun to break the tires just a tiny bit in 2nd and even 3rd gear (that's the childish irresponsible part of me, lol).
 

Msfitoy

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ControlNode

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No need to worry, no anger was involved. Just simply stating the obvious that many can't seem to figure out. Many on here probably remember a good old V8 or even a decent V6 that has great low end torque and no trouble at the RPM that you specify. With a turbo 4 in a Mid Size Pickup Truck you will simply get vibration that you are experiencing at that low of an RPM. Doesn't matter what tire you have on the Ranger. With the 2019 I had I ran the Factory 30's, a set of 32's and 33's. Didn't matter the tire as the same RPM did the same thing.
One rule I've had since I started driving cars with smaller engines has been no lower than 2k rpm while cruising down the highway, or any road, with a 4 cylinder. I'm not planning on allowing sub-1,500rpm the Ranger will go to if you allow it. Tow mode is good for most cases, but I find Sport is better when I getting into foothills or mountains.
 

MarioCart

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One rule I've had since I started driving cars with smaller engines has been no lower than 2k rpm while cruising down the highway, or any road, with a 4 cylinder. I'm not planning on allowing sub-1,500rpm the Ranger will go to if you allow it. Tow mode is good for most cases, but I find Sport is better when I getting into foothills or mountains.
I get it, I've read some of your posts, you come across as more educated than others and use your info in that way. I'm sure its not just anecdotal and personal opinions, you seem to have a background in the know.
So help educate me, is there hard data available from the computer to determine if 1500rpm on the highway cruising along is showing signs of pre-ignition and lugging?
If there is, and it's not happening at a highway cruise speed, when is it happening? how heavy of a load do i need to pull to enter pre-ignition and the detrimental effects it causes?
Is some of the pre-ignition concerns caused by the driver themselves? such as puttering in traffic in 10th gear, then flooring it? does that up the load to lugging territory until it finds the right gear and increases your RPM?
I'm only asking because I have lots of manual experience, and I never see my Ranger act like it's lugging under any of my current driving requirements. I could easily make my manuals lug if I wanted to.
If I am puttering in town in a high gear, slow speed low RPM situation, its reacting just fine, even when I accelerate normally, it drops gears quickly and accordingly. I'd really like to find out for fact that my in town driving is creating pre-ignition. If it is, then I might alter my driving. But I'm not going to ask my engine to do 25% more piston strokes, and use more fuel over its lifetime unless I have to.
 

RedDakooter05

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Wasn't there a fix for this? the DPPE.. whatever sensor. Too early to recall atm.
 

puda

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I chatted with a mechanic today, I told him about the low RPM engine lug with the 2021 Tremor (stock 265/70/17 wheels). Aside from putting the truck in the different modes (trailer/Sport) His suggested to decrease the tire size, he said that decreasing the tire size will increase the RPM's where as a larger tire size will lower the RPM's. Has anyone with the low RPM lug/shudder found a difference/sweet spot with changing their tire size? Thanks in advance!
My truck does the same thing. Vehicle speed dropping, driver is inputting more throttle to the vehicle, and while continuing to lose speed the whole truck vibrates because it is in too high of a gear. It's pretty much the definition of lugging. Typically, this occurs when not driving like a madman, for me when trying to go about 10-15 mph in the neighborhood (up a slight hill) or cruising around a campground or trailhead. It is not normal vehicle behavior unless you have a Ranger, then it is just considered a "truck thing". You can remedy the improper shift points by installing a tune. Chances are if you are experiencing the lugging you probably keep things easy on the throttle most of the time. If this is the case, another benefit of the tune is you will increase your gas mileage. My theory on this is that I don't have to put the pedal to the floor to get the truck to shift where it should be. It really does make a world of difference. I recently removed the tune on my truck as I'm going to follow the best advice in this thread and I'm getting rid of this truck. Once I removed the tune, shifting returned how it was and the lugging returned. I kept the tuner plugged in so that I could monitor RPMs and temperatures and noticed when it is happening the truck is down around 1100 RPMs. Just some productive feedback from someone who actually owns and drives the same truck as you.

The UAW strike has my replacement vehicle delayed for an undetermined amount of time, so I have been hesitant to start selling all the stuff on my truck. But, keep an eye on the marketplace if you are interested in a Ford Performance Tuner.
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