Yep... makes some sense now.
My Sister in law borrowed her son's 2016 F150 5.0 V8(< 50 K miles on it) 2 weeks ago to drive from central NC to Upstate NY north of Syracuse. Just after arriving at their destination the truck failed to start. They had it towed to a Ford dealer who diagnosed the problem as the Oil Pressure Sensor failing. Installed a new one and they were back on the road again.
I have a hunch that the Variable Oil Pressure Control Solenoid was still good , at least it was Free for you.
Ahhh, I see the problem. The title to the post is wayyyyyyyyyyyy too long. Shorten it and put all the pertinent stuff in the post body and the issue goes away.
Yes there is also some wiring/harness replacement/repair in there as well. If it fails again I will be handling it myself. I'm no master mechanic but I'm fairly skilled and could tackle the job. Sent it to the dealer in hopes for warranty work. Oh well. Thats life. I honestly don't see 1275 for everything either. But I'll get a breakdown of cost once it's completed.
Fan Clutch - Ford (KB3Z-8A616-B)
2019-2023 Ford Ranger - kb3z8a616b
Shop Labor Guide = 1.8 hrs - For a 30 Minute Job (Grrrr) - Fan Clutch R & R
- MSRP:$609.09
- Discount:$240.59 (39.5% off)
- Sale Price:$368.50
Shop Labor Charge - For Diagnose (?)
So, I am assuming they are replacing a wire harness here or part of the wire harness (at the Fan Clutch) (If bad)
But I am sorry I do not see 1275.00 in a Fan Clutch R & R, unless they are replacing a wire harness with it.
Replacing a wire harness and getting it back to factory look and specs is a cumbersome job.
But it may be the price variations throughout the dealerships for parts, I am quite sure you can find the Fan Clutch cheaper from On-Line Dealer sites, however you will pay shipping.
I have the luck of having OEM Ford Parts Direct, within a 30-minute drive, and my local dealer parts are double to triple the price I can get them just by driving an extra 20 minutes or so.
Their prices can beat Benny but not by much, and I don't pay shipping.
Dealers have a tendency to greatly markup part prices that they procure from Ford, I have found this to be true.
In my case for LED Headlights, Local Dealer about 1700 each, OEM Ford Parts 1100 each.
Now for the kick in the pants, the Headlights had to be ordered, and guess what they were sitting in the same warehouse and most likely the same assemblies.
Sorry for the little Rant, but this business practice gets me riled.
The Fan Clutch above is from OEM Ford Parts Direct to use for comparison pricing to your dealer.
Just the one I stated earlier. P0034. There were others I believe but I don't recall their number. Blown number 12 fuse, low oil pressure light, check engine light, no A/C. Vehicle in limp mode. With as much as that fuse is hooked up to, I'm assuming it can be quite a few codes. When the fan clutch shorted, it took the oil pressure sensor down with it. Big mess lol
Your analysis seems pretty good to me. Maybe a different material or assembly in lieu of the rubber hose - a metal bracket with poly and some standoffs for the wire harness?After looking at this pic, I thought I would go out to the truck and physically look at the clutch with engine running.
The whole assembly spins with the module remaining semi rigid, some very slight movement rocking back and forth but mostly rigid, I very carefully reached down and moved it side to side.
No grabbing or any resistance noted.
Note: An easy way to mentally picture this is grab the module and spin the clutch
I was determined to come up with a reason for this to fail and rip the harness apart.
I have come up with some possible failure points and makes logical sense.
That module is sandwiched between the backside of the nut and backside of the hub.
With engine off or running you can rotate the module side to side, so it is free-floating.
I am assuming it is a solid shaft between the nut and hub with a metal raceway and or a bearing and race that the module is riding on. Would have to see one apart to be sure.
I can see that that over time, the raceway can wear and gall and cause friction, thus create a grabbing effect on the module as it will want to spin with the rest of the unit.
Now, if this wear gets bad enough, I can see the module now being able to rock front to back and grabbing the back side of the hub and the module wedging itself in between the nut and hub, thus being the big rip of the hose and harness as now it will really want to spin with the rest of the unit.
Another possible is Bearing wear on the hub itself, if the hub bearing gets wear it will let forward and aft movement of the hub and thus let the hub rock backwards toward the nut and wedge the module in between, making it rotate with the unit.
Basically, in a nutshell the module is being pinched or wedged in between the nut and hub and when that happens the module will want to spin, the rubber hose is installed to allow for friction movement of the module.
Modification Options: Hmm
1. If you were to install a rigid line / bracket in place of the rubber hose, might cause more stress on the raceway and physically break the plastic.
2. Reroute the wire harness off of the hose, will not help as the module (in a failure) described above will still spin and pull on the harness and connector anyway.
By using this borrowed pic from earlier post let's look at exact what the hose does for the module.
The Fan spins clockwise (as you are sitting in the truck) so the module also want to spin clockwise by the small amount of friction that is created by the rotation of the fan as its riding on the raceway.
Note the position and routing of the hose, it is there to absorb that friction resistance and keeps the module in place.
Now if the hose breaks the absorption is taken away and the module will want to spin.
or
If any failures noted above will put more stress on the hose forcing it to break
Now the wire harness is still attached to the hose and the module spins ripping the harness because it is clamped to the hose.
I do see one option to possibly help the wire harness and I have a strong hunch that this is where the harness damage is occurring and that is the first clamp on the route from the connector.
That looks like a stress point on the harness.
And I am fairly certain that is where the wiring is being damaged, due to the fact that when that hose flexes the wire harness will flex with it, and the area that is going to flex the most is right at the clamp.
and the hose stress point is where the small bend in the hose at the point where it clamps to the engine side, I feel that this is where the hose will break as this point will absorb the most force against it on the nipple connection for the hose.
So, the only solution I see to possibly save the wire harness is to either take the harness out of that clamp and leave in unclamped or zip tie it farther up the hose. It would allow more movement of the wire harness if the module were to spin clockwise and also eliminate the flex stress point at that clamp.
This is just my observation of this and possible solution to full wire harness damage.
