So i drove my 2019 straight to the dealership when had loss of power bogging and dash lighting up... seen its the tube sensor thing going to clutch fa

[airline tech]

My first hunch would be Fan Clutch wire harness (at the clamps), this would be a stress point for the wire harness and possibly create a chaffing in the harness, between the wires, insulation wore down and now 2-wires touching.
This would be created by the flexing of the harness as the module flexes.
If no issue found, then expand from there and move along the circuit disconnect and isolate checking each leg of the circuit, independently.

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[TJC]

In this instance, wiring checks and circuit breakdown (isolation) is needed along with wire harness shake test to find it.

You made me smile with the shake test and brought back memories. A very long ti,e ago in a land far away IBM made punch card readers (Model 059) that used reed relays. These relays were contained in a sealed glass tube maybe a, 1/8" in diameter and 3/4" long. They were fragile to say the least, and there were whole banks of these relays in the card reader. The 059 look almost identical to the 029 below.

Those relays were notorious for sticking, and I'd get a call to come repair the machine. As soon as I'd remove the back cover the slight vibration would untack the relay contacts and the machine would begin to operate normally. I tried all manner of tactics and strategies to pinpoint the problem relay, but nothing worked. Finally, I resorted to simply lifting a corner 1/4" off the floor and dropping the 059. Worked every time!

For those of you who wonder what a punched card is... Here's a picture of one. The test pattern has been run on this one 80 column card. This was high tech in the 1960-1970's.

The "shake test" tried and proven for many years! Now back to our regularly sheduled programming! (pun intended )

 

[Grumpz]

Other than some isolated rodent damage I've not heard of something like this before. Certainly not a "decent bit" - at least from what I've seen/heard/read. Where are you seeing this happening a "decent bit"?

Just people discussing it on different forums, in my searches. Depends on your definition of "decent bit" but I've certainly come across several people having the same issue as I am without any sort of "rodent damage". I'm sure you've checked the entire internet though

 

[RedlandRanger]

Just people discussing it on different forums, in my searches. Depends on your definition of "decent bit" but I've certainly come across several people having the same issue as I am without any sort of "rodent damage". I'm sure you've checked the entire internet though

I guess it depends on your definition of "decent bit". With around a half million or so of these trucks that are around, "several people" doesn't constitute a "decent bit" to me - but that's just me. I don't recall it being discussed here before, that's all.

 

[Grumpz]

I guess it depends on your definition of "decent bit". With around a half million or so of these trucks that are around, "several people" doesn't constitute a "decent bit" to me - but that's just me. I don't recall it being discussed here before, that's all.

Fair enough but I never really see any problems with a vehicle that I'm not having an issue with, unless its a glairing issue, because I'm not searching for it. As soon as I searched for the issue, I found quite a few people discussing it. As far as people who've had the issues and haven't shared the info...Can't say for those numbers but a master tech I spoke with today said "he's seen a lot of electrical issues with the Rangers, particularly 2019 and 2020 models." ?‍

 

[Grumpz]

You made me smile with the shake test and brought back memories. A very long ti,e ago in a land far away IBM made punch card readers (Model 059) that used reed relays. These relays were contained in a sealed glass tube maybe a, 1/8" in diameter and 3/4" long. They were fragile to say the least, and there were whole banks of these relays in the card reader. The 059 look almost identical to the 029 below.

Those relays were notorious for sticking, and I'd get a call to come repair the machine. As soon as I'd remove the back cover the slight vibration would untack the relay contacts and the machine would begin to operate normally. I tried all manner of tactics and strategies to pinpoint the problem relay, but nothing worked. Finally, I resorted to simply lifting a corner 1/4" off the floor and dropping the 059. Worked every time!

For those of you who wonder what a punched card is... Here's a picture of one. The test pattern has been run on this one 80 column card. This was high tech in the 1960-1970's.

The "shake test" tried and proven for many years! Now back to our regularly sheduled programming! (pun intended )

? I've sort of done my own shake test with the fan clutch. After the second blown fuse, I replaced a fuse and gave the harness on the fan clutch a little shake and sure enough, blown fuse number 3. Seems like you both are on to something as well as various other reports.

 

[RedlandRanger]

Fair enough but I never really see any problems with a vehicle that I'm not having an issue with, unless its a glairing issue, because I'm not searching for it. As soon as I searched for the issue, I found quite a few people discussing it. As far as people who've had the issues and haven't shared the info...Can't say for those numbers but a master tech I spoke with today said "he's seen a lot of electrical issues with the Rangers, particularly 2019 and 2020 models." ?‍

It is all anecdotal evidence. I've had my Ranger for almost 4 1/2 years and had zero electrical issues, and I know there are others on here with similar experiences. But that is a very small percentage of owners as is one tech.

As many people have said - people don't typically post on forums that they love their vehicles - they post on forums when they have problems, so you typically get a distorted view of things if you are attempting to use that as a gauge as to how many issues any vehicle has.

 

[Grumpz]

It is all anecdotal evidence. I've had my Ranger for almost 4 1/2 years and had zero electrical issues, and I know there are others on here with similar experiences. But that is a very small percentage of owners as is one tech.

As many people have said - people don't typically post on forums that they love their vehicles - they post on forums when they have problems, so you typically get a distorted view of things if you are attempting to use that as a gauge as to how many issues any vehicle has.

That's lovely and all but did you have advice to help my issue or are you here to challenge the wording I use to describe my problem and experience?

 

[RedlandRanger]

That's lovely and all but did you have advice to help my issue or are you here to challenge the wording I use to describe my problem and experience?

I don't have any advice for you sorry - I merely asked because I wanted to know if there was some larger issue that I hadn't heard about before. This still sounds like a relatively isolated issue - maybe it is something that will occur as these trucks age.

Good luck figuring it out.

 

[Grumpz]

Ok, did some digging for the circuits that are tied into the Fan Clutch:
This is what I found:

Now keep in mind that all of these circuits will only drop if the Fan Clutch wire harness shorts out and possibly blows the fuse.
This is only showing the power feed side, you also have the VREF (5-Volt) circuit not depicted here. I found the diagram that only has this circuit as I missed some things on the complete engine control circuit.

1. The Cabin Heater (Coolant Pump) - Only active with ASS, provides coolant flow with cold outside temps while in ASS is active to continue flow (with electric) coolant pump to take place of the water pump with engine not running. ---So most likely ASS will disable.

2. Trans Fluid Heater Coolant Cont Valve - Normally open, closed with 12-volt power applied.
This valve allows or by-passes coolant through the Tran Oil Cooler for heat transfer tranny fluid to the coolant.

3. Turbo-Charger By-Pass Valve: No Fail safe found but assume that it will not work with no power.

4. Fan Clutch, now if the fan is not rotating or low airflow across the radiator, then the cooling system has a failsafe mode. (2) modes open/closed loop failure
This puts engine into LIMP mode, reduced engine power and limits to 3,000 RPM and has the ability to limit to 800 RPM, it can also deactivate (2) cylinders. (Overheat Protection)

5. Air Intake Shut-Off Valve (Note: diagram is nomenclated wrong) this is the Aspirator Valve.
This is normally closed and when powered it allows vacuum to be added to the brake booster, if the booster is sensing low vacuum.

6. AC Compressor Control Solenoid: Ac Compressor will not run, so no AC

7. Oil Pressure Cont Solenoid: Lengthy Description (Copy/Paste)
No Fail-Safe mode found for this, but the Oil Press sensor will read a low pressure and put engine into LIMP Mode (Power Reduced) if this solenoid drastically drops oil pressure.

You will still have an Oil Pump, mechanically driven, you just will not get the variable control out of it, so it should be full pressure (unaltered)

Update:
I dug into the Pinpoint test for the solenoid, and with it disconnected, (same as power drop with blown fuse) Oil Press should rise by 40 PSI, so this would be the fail-safe.

Unclear which system we have in the Ranger as it is not clear

Oil Pressure Control Solenoid
A conventional mechanical oil pump is connected to and driven by the crankshaft and produces oil
pressure proportional to engine speed, The Variable Oil Pump (VOP) is capable of varying its
output oil pressure as necessary. The Oil Pressure Control Solenoid, also known as Variable Oil
Pump Control (VOPC), is a solenoid that controls the output of the Variable Oil Pump.
There are two VOP systems currently being used. They are (1) a two-stage pressure system and
(2) continuous variable pressure system. The two-stage pressure system provides two pressure
modes, low and high. The continuous variable pressure system directly controls output pressure
based on commands from the Variable Oil Pump Control (VOPC) solenoid.
There are currently two different hardware configurations currently in use for these two systems.
They are (1) Variable Displacement Oil Pump (VDOP) which controls the oil pump directly and (2)
Active Oil Filter Adapter (AOFA) which controls the oil drain system.
The VDOP adjusts the pump’s displacement using a moveable slide that controls the filling and
draining of the oil in the reservoir via two ports in the pump. The oil pressure control solenoid
controls the amount of oil filling by partially or completely opening and closing the passage. The
AOFA consists of a conventional oil pump and a separate oil bypass line. The oil pressure control
solenoid opens and closes a bypass line which allows oil to drain back to the sump. The VDOP
can be configured to operate as both a two-stage pressure system as well as a continuous
variable pressure system; however, the AOFA can only be used for a two-state pressure system.
Regardless of pump and system types, the actual solenoid hardware is identical.

Update! Bad fuel sensor was blowing the number 12 fuse. The sensor happens to be covered under power train warranty. Thanks everyone for your advice. So many things attached to that fuse I didn't know where to begin

 

[TJC]

Update! Bad fuel sensor was blowing the number 12 fuse. The sensor happens to be covered under power train warranty. Thanks everyone for your advice. So many things attached to that fuse I didn't know where to begin

I am happy for you that it has been resolved.... But it is disconcerting, as I did not see the fuel sensor on the schematic. So we can add at least one more completely different system protected by that single fuse.

 

[airline tech]

Yes, I checked the Engine Control, diagram as well, nothing on that circuit I see related to Fuel Sensor. Hmm We would need the exact name of failed sensor for deeper dive on how it relates.

 

[Grumpz]

I, too thought it was strange as I didn't see anything related to the fuel system for that fuse. I will speak with them more tomorrow maybe get the part number for the exact sensor replaced

Yes, I checked the Engine Control, diagram as well, nothing on that circuit I see related to Fuel Sensor. Hmm We would need the exact name of failed sensor for deeper dive on how it relates.

 

[TJC]

Yes, I checked the Engine Control, diagram as well, nothing on that circuit I see related to Fuel Sensor. Hmm We would need the exact name of failed sensor for deeper dive on how it relates.

And maybe the Code it threw as well.

 

[Grumpz]

And maybe the Code it threw as well.

The code I cleared personally was a P0034, which popped up again. i believe there are others as well as that code. Don't remember off the top of my head. Will report as much info as I can get

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