So i drove my 2019 straight to the dealership when had loss of power bogging and dash lighting up... seen its the tube sensor thing going to clutch fa

airline tech

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Whats the oil pressure range?
Using 2 separate manuals, this is what I found.
2 different sources

Oil Pressure: Hot
@ 1500 RPM - 28-38 PSI -- Source 1
and
@2000 RPM 29-60 PSI --- Source 2

So, to back up on the test of the Oil Cont Solenoid (per the manual)
Run Eng - Record Oil Press Reading
Stop Eng - Disconnect the Connector on the Oil Press Cont Sol
Run Eng - Record Oil Press Reading
With it disconnected - Did Oil Press rise Greater Than 40 PSI
Note: I question the spec of 40 PSI, after comparing it with the Oil Press Spec, I think the main point here is seeing the Oil Press Rise
Without actually checking Forscan PID readings to compare.

If yes, move on to next test step.
If no, Replace the Oil Press Cont Solenoid Valve

Thinking outside the box here, that if the circuit is shorted and fuse 12 is blown, would be the same effect as disconnecting the connector.

What this test does is ensure the Oil Press Cont Solenoid, fully relaxes and is not commanding a by-pass of oil - so full oil pressure by the oil pump.

So, the way I see it as long as the oil pump is working correctly, and you have only lost the control portion of the oil pressure then with the engine now in LIMP mode, limiting the RPM's.
The engine oil pressure will be full oil pressure with Limited RPM's (Limp Mode)
and
If I am correct, even if the Cont Solenoid failed in a Oil Press By-Pass mode, the Oil Pump would still be at a Minimum and the Engine would be in LIMP Mode anyway.
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sandog

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After reading this thread I thought I'd check the "repair" that I did on the hose last summer.
I had noticed the hose ripped on one side but holding.

The dealer that I bought my truck from is for sure the most worthless dealership I've dealt with.
I went into service to make an appt, told the guy what had broken, and the advisor said, "SIR, THIS IS SERVICE, YOU WANT TO GO NEXT DOOR TO PARTS".
I said no, the truck is under warranty so you are going to do the repair. If I wanted parts I would have went to the parts dept, dammit.
The guy is always an ass, glad I haven't had to deal with their service department any more than I have.

When I heard that the whole fan clutch would need to be ordered, I told them forget it, I'll just fix it myself.
I put an extra wide hose clamp over the split hose and it lasted up until recently.
Now it's ripped next to the hose clamp and the wire harness was the only thing holding.

I guess I'll try buying a new piece of hose and doing the zip tie thing for the harness.
I can always go over to the next closest Ford dealer 50 miles away to get the part replaced, they are well liked whereas the dealer I bought from is despised.
 

got3fords

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How hard would it be to convert to an electric fan?
 

RCMUSTANG

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Look at my build thread for an example but you need a tune to delete the computer control on the fan clutch so you don't generate codes and check engine light.
 


airline tech

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After reading this thread I thought I'd check the "repair" that I did on the hose last summer.
I had noticed the hose ripped on one side but holding.

The dealer that I bought my truck from is for sure the most worthless dealership I've dealt with.
I went into service to make an appt, told the guy what had broken, and the advisor said, "SIR, THIS IS SERVICE, YOU WANT TO GO NEXT DOOR TO PARTS".
I said no, the truck is under warranty so you are going to do the repair. If I wanted parts I would have went to the parts dept, dammit.
The guy is always an ass, glad I haven't had to deal with their service department any more than I have.

When I heard that the whole fan clutch would need to be ordered, I told them forget it, I'll just fix it myself.
I put an extra wide hose clamp over the split hose and it lasted up until recently.
Now it's ripped next to the hose clamp and the wire harness was the only thing holding.

I guess I'll try buying a new piece of hose and doing the zip tie thing for the harness.
I can always go over to the next closest Ford dealer 50 miles away to get the part replaced, they are well liked whereas the dealer I bought from is despised.
This sparks my curiosity as it appears you have a bad fan clutch but are able to band-aid fix.
and you have the opportunity to do some diagnostics on possibles for the reason of extra force being applied to the hose and breaking it.

If you knew someone with a Ranger for side-by-side compare would be great.
but here is what I see with mine @ 7,900 miles - so fairly new compare -notes.

1. With engine Off: I can move the module side to side - (Freely), with only the resistance of the hose keeping it in place.

2. With Engine Off: I can rotate the fan and hold the module - With same result as above, only the resistance of the hose is felt. So, no friction or movement in fan rotation (direction) or rotating force being applied to the module.

3. With Engine Off: I have (zero) movement of the fan itself (Fwd to Back)

4. With Engine Running: (At Cold & Hot Idle) I can see the module holding itself in place and very minimal movement if any towards the direction of fan rotation.

5. With Engine Running (At Cold & Hot Idle) If I (VERY CAREFULLY) reach down and put my fingers on the module. I can still move the module (side to side) freely with a very slight resistance as the hose is keeping it in place.

I DO NOT RECCOMEND DOING STEP 5, IT IS A DANGERIOUS STEP, AS YOUR HANDS ARE BESIDE THE SPINNING FAN.

So, with you having (2) broken hoses in a year, then there is something that is causing extra force on that hose, and I feel it is rotational force being applied in the direction of fan rotation.
I am thinking that the hose breakage is caused by either or both of these options.

1. The module appears to ride on a shaft or raceway that is sandwiched between the nut and hub.
Over time the inner race of the module can be wearing down causing a friction point and providing a grabbing effect on the module, thus making it want to spin with the fan.
This extra friction would be the cause of hose breakage and if worn bad enough would allow the module to rock back and forth catching itself on the fan hub.

2. One of the failure signs of a fan clutch will be bearing failure, this failure can be found by rocking the fan (Fwd & Back) and note any play or movement. (It should be solid)
So, I am thinking that if this is happening then the hub will also be rocking (Fwd & Back) if this is occurring it would create a pinching effect on the module and wedging it in between the hub and the nut and now locking it to the spinning hub of the fan.

So, the key point of troubleshooting this will be how freely the module can rotate, something is changing this highly needed operational need.
Since with my truck with low miles does not show any signs of rotating force on the module and can move freely with engine off & running.

The only point (Not Tested) would be using a scan tool with Bidirectional Control and commanding the fan through full fan speeds, as this would show if fan clutch engagement has any effect on the module and (Free Movement) of it.

Forscan does not have this feature for the Ranger, for a specific test. However, if I am not mistaken that during a PCM self-test I vaguely remember hearing the fan ramp up in speed as part of its self-test.
So, this may be a way to monitor if any movement of the module is noted during this process.
A PCM self-test would need to be done to confirm as I am only going from memory here at the moment.

Since I have not had one apart (Ranger Design) I am not 100% how the module reacts when the clutch actually engages / disengages, or exactly how it is mounted to the clutch, other than it free floats. (What does it actually ride on?)

I do not know if there is any force change applied to the module, I do not think there is but just a possibility that there may be some at clutch engagement / disengagement.

What I do know is that there is a Hall-Effect sensor on the front side of the module that picks up the fan speed. (Spinning of the Hub)
This fan speed input is the feedback to the control side of the module, so if the module were to lock itself to the hub, you would lose the function of the fan speed sense.
(Stationary Module - Reading Rotating Hub)

This design varies some from the YouTube video I posted earlier.

So, this may or may not show anything that stands out, but I am confident that this is the right direction in determining the cause of failure (Mechanical) which is resulting into electrical failure with the harness.

So, if you check these things above, it may show something out of norm.
 
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TJC

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I recently initiated the PCM test on my D8 and it checked the clutch fan. I remember the fan engaging and disengaging for about 5-10 seconds. I'm going to send a note to XTools asking for a bidirectional test for this to be implemented in the next update.
 

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After reading this thread I thought I'd check the "repair" that I did on the hose last summer.
I had noticed the hose ripped on one side but holding.

The dealer that I bought my truck from is for sure the most worthless dealership I've dealt with.
I went into service to make an appt, told the guy what had broken, and the advisor said, "SIR, THIS IS SERVICE, YOU WANT TO GO NEXT DOOR TO PARTS".
I said no, the truck is under warranty so you are going to do the repair. If I wanted parts I would have went to the parts dept, dammit.
The guy is always an ass, glad I haven't had to deal with their service department any more than I have.

When I heard that the whole fan clutch would need to be ordered, I told them forget it, I'll just fix it myself.
I put an extra wide hose clamp over the split hose and it lasted up until recently.
Now it's ripped next to the hose clamp and the wire harness was the only thing holding.

I guess I'll try buying a new piece of hose and doing the zip tie thing for the harness.
I can always go over to the next closest Ford dealer 50 miles away to get the part replaced, they are well liked whereas the dealer I bought from is despised.
I'm sorry man, that sucks. I'm fortunate that the current Ford service place my ranger is at, did great work with my mustang and has helpful people who do what they can for their customers. I've had my fair share of awful service departments and this ones the best. They also warranty their work. It is taking a while, but the parts supplier is their hold up. The master techs there are good as well. The ranger may cause me to go broke lol but at least I don't have to deal with shitty service people. Let me know if you figure out a fix for that hose to where it doesn't tear.
 

sandog

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I hadn't broken two hoses within a year but patched the same one twice. Both times it broke on the end away from the fan.
Yesterday I patched it to (hopefully) make it to the auto parts store.
My thoughts were to just replace the old hose with something stronger.

I asked about some reinforced rubber hose at NAPA and the guy had some cloth reinforced stuff.
He called it multipurpose hose and said some NAPA stores have it in black and some stores have it in red. I
The 3/8" looked a bit small, so I bought a piece of 3/8" and a piece of 1/2".
The fabric reinforcement looked a lot heavier on the 1/2", but 3/8" ended up matching the old hose.
(The 1/2" didn't fit tight on either end so wasn't used.)
20230902_131125.jpg

When I got home and started to do the repair, my patch from yesterday had already come loose.
(I had wrapped a strip of Gorilla Duct tape around the split, then covered with my extra wide hose clamp. The old hose was just too brittle on that end.)
20230902_131834.jpg

I re-used the stout crimp hose clamp down at the fan sensor, and used my wide hose clamp at the top.
I tried to get some fancy zip ties like the factory ones that carry the wire harness piggyback, but couldn't find any and just used regular zip ties.

This hose should hold a few years, it's built much better than the soft rubber factory hose.
20230902_131808.jpg
 

airline tech

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I hadn't broken two hoses within a year but patched the same one twice. Both times it broke on the end away from the fan.
Yesterday I patched it to (hopefully) make it to the auto parts store.
My thoughts were to just replace the old hose with something stronger.

I asked about some reinforced rubber hose at NAPA and the guy had some cloth reinforced stuff.
He called it multipurpose hose and said some NAPA stores have it in black and some stores have it in red. I
The 3/8" looked a bit small, so I bought a piece of 3/8" and a piece of 1/2".
The fabric reinforcement looked a lot heavier on the 1/2", but 3/8" ended up matching the old hose.
(The 1/2" didn't fit tight on either end so wasn't used.)
20230902_131125.jpg

When I got home and started to do the repair, my patch from yesterday had already come loose.
(I had wrapped a strip of Gorilla Duct tape around the split, then covered with my extra wide hose clamp. The old hose was just too brittle on that end.)
20230902_131834.jpg

I re-used the stout crimp hose clamp down at the fan sensor, and used my wide hose clamp at the top.
I tried to get some fancy zip ties like the factory ones that carry the wire harness piggyback, but couldn't find any and just used regular zip ties.

This hose should hold a few years, it's built much better than the soft rubber factory hose.
20230902_131808.jpg
Looks like that will work, but did you notice any abnormal feel on the sensor as far as freedom of movement or play in the fan itself?
 

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No, everything rotates freely. There must be some torque on that hose though for it to fail eventually.
 

Racket

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That factory part looks like cheap molded rubber - maybe the deterioration is due to defective material (think parking brake boot?) I just wonder if something could be done to the reinforced hose to make it conform to a shape better.
 

sandog

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Maybe the hose could be heated to make that bend better ?
The one I put on has a more gradual bend but isn't really cranked over much.

The close proximity to the front of the engine means that rubber hose gets hot, maybe that contributes to the deterioration.
 

TJC

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My hunch is that the rubber is simply deteriorating. And I am going to bet on it and change to a very solidly reinforced hose to get in front of this issue before it becomes a very expensive problem.

In short, it is simply Ford being cheap again.
 
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Can you post your mileage just curious as to when this part may start failing and the lifespan ?
Thanks.
I'll just say this. Mine failed at 2,700 miles leaving me stranded for over 4+ hours requiring a tow. The wiring harness either got pulled apart or caught in the fan and the truck would not run. Had to coast off the road because the engine quit. I am looking through the Forum too see how common it is and came across this thread. Truck is still in the shop and the fan clutch is on back order.
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