Tail light replacement

[Rviator]

After months of waiting I finally received a replacement tail light and installed it yesterday. The replacement is as pictured without the BLIS module. Instead you swap the BLIS over from the original. R &R went pretty well open tailgate, remove 2 hex head bolts and remove tail light from 2 pins on the fwd end. Even when the red lock tab was released it took some prying to disconnect the main connector but it was accomplished with no damage. The BLIS assy removes with 4 more hex head screws. In order to remove the BLIS sub-connector 2 Torx type screws must be removed to loosen the BLIS sensor from its housing for clearance to remove its connector. When assembling fully insert the sub connector for the BLIS module until you hear a faint click as the fit is snug. Reverse the process and that's it. It all works and no dealer calibrating is required. Attached is a picture of the original tail light in the same configuration the replacement was, the loose male connector is the BLIS sub assy connection.

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[MXGOLF]

OK some comparison pictures would be great Doug

Thanks,

 

[Rviator]

OK some comparison pictures would be great Doug

Thanks,

Uh it's a stock OEM part replacement from Ford. The original cracked from a minor impact.

 

[RavenRanger19]

Thanks for this post. Looks like I'm going to be doing this soon as my left tail light has a hole in it and now has some water in it. Am I understanding it correctly if the current BLIS still works, I can order a tail light assembly without the sensor and just swap my current one?

 

[JesseS]

I have had both of them open several times installing the diodes and connections for towing, hardest part is getting the dang connectors apart. Good job, saved yourself some bucks for sure.

 

[Rviator]

Thanks for this post. Looks like I'm going to be doing this soon as my left tail light has a hole in it and now has some water in it. Am I understanding it correctly if the current BLIS still works, I can order a tail light assembly without the sensor and just swap my current one?

Yes, that is the way my replacement came without the BLIS. I did not have a choice.

 

[Okinawa Joe]

After months of waiting I finally received a replacement tail light and installed it yesterday. The replacement is as pictured without the BLIS module. Instead you swap the BLIS over from the original. R &R went pretty well open tailgate, remove 2 hex head bolts and remove tail light from 2 pins on the fwd end. Even when the red lock tab was released it took some prying to disconnect the main connector but it was accomplished with no damage. The BLIS assy removes with 4 more hex head screws. In order to remove the BLIS sub-connector 2 Torx type screws must be removed to loosen the BLIS sensor from its housing for clearance to remove its connector. When assembling fully insert the sub connector for the BLIS module until you hear a faint click as the fit is snug. Reverse the process and that's it. It all works and no dealer calibrating is required. Attached is a picture of the original tail light in the same configuration the replacement was, the loose male connector is the BLIS sub assy connection.

Easy replacement, hardest part was shelling out $750, don't ask me how I know!

 

[gvb1940]

I know nothing about blind spot indicators. Parts Geek has a Ranger tail light assembly without bliss for $168.
Can I use the bliss out of my broken tail light? Is it a bolt on unit or is it integral to the original tail light assembly?

 

[NotBudule]

I know nothing about blind spot indicators. Parts Geek has a Ranger tail light assembly without bliss for $168.
Can I use the bliss out of my broken tail light? Is it a bolt on unit or is it integral to the original tail light assembly?

Nope...

 

[airline tech]

I know nothing about blind spot indicators. Parts Geek has a Ranger tail light assembly without bliss for $168.
Can I use the bliss out of my broken tail light? Is it a bolt on unit or is it integral to the original tail light assembly?

The taillight has to have the open mount like the pic above - the assy without BLIS does not have it.
You can get the assy with or without the module but either way a new module requires it to be reprogrammed to the truck - VIN specific or just swap old module over to new assy and no reprogram required.
Unfortunately the BLIS assembly is stupid expensive
Basically the assy without BLIS will not work as there is no mount for the module or wire pigtail for hookup

 

[gvb1940]

The taillight has to have the open mount like the pic above - the assy without BLIS does not have it.
You can get the assy with or without the module but either way a new module requires it to be reprogrammed to the truck - VIN specific or just swap old module over to new assy and no reprogram required.
Unfortunately the BLIS assembly is stupid expensive
Basically the assy without BLIS will not work as there is no mount for the module or wire pigtail for hookup

Thanks. That pretty much explains it.

 

[Big Blue]

The taillight has to have the open mount like the pic above - the assy without BLIS does not have it.
You can get the assy with or without the module but either way a new module requires it to be reprogrammed to the truck - VIN specific or just swap old module over to new assy and no reprogram required.
Unfortunately the BLIS assembly is stupid expensive
Basically the assy without BLIS will not work as there is no mount for the module or wire pigtail for hookup

The assembly with BLIS is the LED assembly, it does not have any replaceable bulbs. The assembly for Trucks without BLIS uses standard light bulbs and will not work on a truck with BLIS.

 

[gvb1940]

Any recommendations for a code reader to recalibrate the Blis module after installation. So far I’ve seen Autel and Innova but no model numbers. Both companies make a bunch of different models.

 

[Big Blue]

Any recommendations for a code reader to recalibrate the Blis module after installation. So far I’ve seen Autel and Innova but no model numbers. Both companies make a bunch of different models.

I believe you will need to use Forscan to edit the asbuilt for the module to have your VIN in it to communicate with the truck over CANBUS.

 

[airline tech]

You should be able to do it with Forscan, my Autel is MS906TS, but it is a $1500 scanner and even it is limited to functions with the Ranger, Ford Limits aftermarket functions (Bi-Directional) control functions to be specific to dealer level scan Sofware (FDRS) the latest Ford Sofware can be downloaded and used if needed for ($50) , I think 48hrs use, but you will need the expensive adapter (OBD) to connect the software.
The Forscan adaapters will not work (OBD-Link) (EX or MX) with FDRS
Another poster on here said that Forscan will work, but I have not tried it for the BLIS.
I plan on finding an adaptor and trying a 2-day spin with FDRS to see what it can and cannot do.

I have had a professional scanner for the last 20 years or so and mainly owned GM's and have never had limits on what I could do with them till now and my first true Ford ownership. I hate being limited as to what I can or cannot do on my own with scan tools, as this is why I am looking into the FDRS software.

So far this is the cheapest adaptor for use with FDRS

Mongoose Plus - Ford 2-Wired J2534 Adaptor $539.00 as this is the cheapest non-cloned or hacked adaptor that will allow connection through FDRS software

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