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Axle nut removal

navsnipe

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You will need a 35mm socket and breaker bar. Have someone push on the brake pedal when loosening. Installation will require torque wrench set at 221 lb/ft to tighten properly, have someone push on brake pedal when tightening.
 

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I always use an impact gun, when removing those, they are torqued to 221 ft lbs
Without an impact gun a breaker bar and a helper pressing on brake pedal to keep it from turning.
I think it is a 36mm socket if I recall.
 


navsnipe

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It's a 35mm socket that's needed.
 

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As others have said get a Impact gun. Electric might work but air is best. When installing just use the impact again.
 

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The reason for 36mm is due to the fact with most aftermarket half shaft assemblies, it will most likely come with a 36mm nut, this is common for GM, not sure about Ford.
Thus, you will have to use the old nut vs replacement.
so just be aware that if replacing the half shaft, it may come with a 36mm nut.
If using a 6 pt socket a 36mm will work on a 35mm nut, just some slight sloppiness.
 

Cmar

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If you don't have a rattle gun you're going to need a sturdy breaker bar and maybe a length of pipe to go over it.
Years ago I used to own a Kia Sorento V6 because of the stupid pulley design that Hyundai / Kia inherited from Mitsubishi (3.5 V6 was a Mitsubishi design) when changing the timing belt the crank pulley and nut had to come off, the problem was it wasn't on a taper, it was a straight cylinder fit with a couple of roll pins on a flange to drive the pulley. This meant that it had to be done up stupid tight to stop the bolt backing out and the pulley coming off. The easiest way to undo it was to wedge the breaker bar on top of the chassis and blip the starter for a second.
 

D Fresh

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If you don't have somebody to hold the brakes you can pop the center caps off and break them free with the wheels on and truck on the ground.

Works for torqueing your new ones back on as well.
 

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You will need a 35mm socket and breaker bar. Have someone push on the brake pedal when loosening. Installation will require torque wrench set at 221 lb/ft to tighten properly, have someone push on brake pedal when tightening.
As @D Fresh says above, loosening with all or most of the truck’s weight on the ground is good. Just crack it, don’t back it off until it’s up in the air.

Tighten as much as possible and then lower to ground enough so the tire isn’t turning - torque to 221 ft lbs - easier to do in increments (150, 175, 200, 221) - not sure why but some old salty mechanic with a gazillion tattoos told me this way is best. ? I do it that way whether he was right or not. That torque spec is very specific - get a good torque wrench and do not listen to anyone saying just take the impact to it.

That axle nut is one-time use - a new one is required after removing the original.
 

D Fresh

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not sure why but some old salty mechanic with a gazillion tattoos told me this way is best. ? I do it that way whether he was right or not.
:crackup:

I had a buddy who partnered up with me in a horticulture venture. After many "why do you do it that way?" conversations we came to conclusion that most of the time the answer is "because the old timer I learned from did it that way."
 
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So. I realized it needed be in 4 wheel and I had a length of pipe for my breaker bar. Got it. So far so good. Was nervous getting the coilover out because i had the leveling kit on it. Lat time I popped the axle out, but luckily got it back in after a panic attack. Clean so far with the axle nut off i got the old one out and the new one in. Passenger side tomorrow
Thanks all.
 

KJRR

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Hopefully you don't have a damper. If you do just take it somewhere to get it done. Or get a torque multiplier, very helpful for lightweight damper owners. :wink:
 

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Hopefully you don't have a damper. If you do just take it somewhere to get it done. Or get a torque multiplier, very helpful for lightweight damper owners. :wink:
Torque multiplier ? like a breaker bar extender ?…
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