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Paint correction tips for a newb?

puckdodger

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Hey folks, got a bit of paint on Ol' Scuffy in need of some loving. I plan to do a paint correction to get most of the swirls and cobwebs outta there, does anyone have any tips or advice to give a complete buffoon with a buffer ?
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Rinn69

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I have a Porter Cable 7424XP variable speed, random orbit polisher. I watched a youtube video about this polisher and it sold me. It's a much safer alternative than using the old school, high speed buffers that the pro's use. It's definitely a good choice for a DIY'er and not worrying about burning through the paint.
I've used Sonax Perfect Finish on my previous black 2013 Ram Sport and It took all the spider webbing/light scratches away and left an incredible shine. It will remove up to 2000 grit scratches. A little goes a long way. Start slow for the first pass of a 2x2' area, then speed it up for a couple more passes. The grit breaks down into finer grit while in use, then wipe off the haze with a microfiber cloth.
Start with good tools and materials and it's much easier and less stressful.
 

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Hey folks, got a bit of paint on Ol' Scuffy in need of some loving. I plan to do a paint correction to get most of the swirls and cobwebs outta there, does anyone have any tips or advice to give a complete buffoon with a buffer ?
20230504_102520.jpg
20230504_102605.jpg
Do you go to drive through car washes that touch the paint?
 

Bob902

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Like Mike, I have the Porter Cable as well. User friendly. Go take a look st Autogeek.com. they have several different brands of paint correction compounds. Sonax, Griots, Chemical Guys, Jaxwax, etc. I would start with an all in one, correction and paint sealer together. If the swirls/scratches are still there, you can use more aggressive compounds if needed.
 

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Jim, take a look at this video from Pan it should help you through the process. Also click on his name and he has many videos showing how to do paint correction.

 


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puckdodger

puckdodger

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I have a Porter Cable 7424XP variable speed, random orbit polisher. I watched a youtube video about this polisher and it sold me. It's a much safer alternative than using the old school, high speed buffers that the pro's use. It's definitely a good choice for a DIY'er and not worrying about burning through the paint.
I've used Sonax Perfect Finish on my previous black 2013 Ram Sport and It took all the spider webbing/light scratches away and left an incredible shine. It will remove up to 2000 grit scratches. A little goes a long way. Start slow for the first pass of a 2x2' area, then speed it up for a couple more passes. The grit breaks down into finer grit while in use, then wipe off the haze with a microfiber cloth.
Start with good tools and materials and it's much easier and less stressful.
Thanks. I saw a video recommending that particular unit as well, guy talked a lot but that was one of my takeaways: get a 7424XP. And I didn't realize the grit breaks down as you use it, good info to know.

It's funny, I worked in an auto plant building cars and trucks for 35 years and never worked a day in the paint shop. I was always a chassis grease monkey or in the body shop, covered in sparks. I learned some skills that have helped me in my own garage, but it was the cleanliness of the paint shop freaked me out when it came to doing that kind of work at home in my messy, dusty old workshop. Now, IDGAF and figure whats the worst I can do :sunglasses:
 
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puckdodger

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Do you go to drive through car washes that touch the paint?
The truck is new to me. An old guy had it before me and I've been busy taking all the cheap aftermarket plastic chrome blingy looking crap off it once I'm done with the process it will never see one of those scratch factories again :thumbsup:
 
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puckdodger

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Jim, take a look at this video from Pan it should help you through the process. Also click on his name and he has many videos showing how to do paint correction.

Thanks Dave. I saw him called Pan The Advertiser on another page LMAO. He's a bit cloying but he does present good information, once you wade through all the rawdog Ned Flanders sex appeal he's got goin' on
 
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puckdodger

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One other thing I was wondering, since I'm old and my shoulders hate me, I think this will take a couple weeks to do the whole truck. Should I do the whole process on whatever panels: clay, compound, polish, and then graphene, or wait and do the graphene when the whole thing has been corrected?
 

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One other thing I was wondering, since I'm old and my shoulders hate me, I think this will take a couple weeks to do the whole truck. Should I do the whole process on whatever panels: clay, compound, polish, and then graphene, or wait and do the graphene when the whole thing has been corrected?
I would wait to do the Graphene when you're all done. This way every panel is coated at the same time. It won't make a huge difference but my OCD likes to know it's all done at the same time. :crazy:
 

Jhbryaniv

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before you buy anything, or power any tool and touch your vehicle watch hours and hours of youtube videos or take a class.

Paint correction is not hard, but it can go wrong quickly.

Pan The Organizer, Esoteric, Ammo NYC, Apex Detail, Whites Detail, Chicago Auto Pros, Car supplies Warehouse, The Detail Geek, - even watching the youtube channels of major polishing machines or detailing products - Gyeon, Autogeek, Carpro, Chemical Guys . . .

I am not saying you can't pick up a polisher and get good results your first try - but you're working on black paint that looks like it has been neglected for a very long time.

First step after you give the vehicle a thorough wash is to decontaminate the paint, chemical or mechanical. Sometimes a good wash, decon and application of basic coating or wax can make the vehicle look "good enough".

If I were doing the vehicle in parts, I would treat each part after I finish it. And once I was done with vehicle, I might go back over the entire vehicle if I was using something like 303 graphene. I don't like leaving paint unprotected. . .

Having done our Outback with 303 Graphene, it looks nice when you are done, but it isn't nearly as easy as something like Gtechniq or Gyeon spray coatings. I also used 303 Aerospace on my trucks door handles (they are black plastic) and they look better with aerospace vs graphene.

OK, I gotta go get the kid from school now in my very very dirty truck . . . :-(
 

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One other thing I was wondering, since I'm old and my shoulders hate me, I think this will take a couple weeks to do the whole truck. Should I do the whole process on whatever panels: clay, compound, polish, and then graphene, or wait and do the graphene when the whole thing has been corrected?
Hey Jim,

I’m not sure if I let you know about this yet but I’ve found a good Canadian supplier for 303 and other detailing products, including polishing compounds and pads for your dual action polisher. Good prices, free shipping if you buy lots of stuff.

They’re in Calgary, ship quickly, and customer service is good - surprised me with free samples in a couple of my orders. ?

Check out: carzilla.ca

In fact, I just ordered some pads and the Sonax compound Mike mentioned above so I can remove the rub marks from my now deleted fender flares.

DAMN YOU PAN - DAMN YOU @Rinn69 :wink: ?
 

Jhbryaniv

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Hey Jim,

I’m not sure if I let you know about this yet but I’ve found a good Canadian supplier for 303 and other detailing products, including polishing compounds and pads for your dual action polisher. Good prices, free shipping if you buy lots of stuff.

They’re in Calgary, ship quickly, and customer service is good - surprised me with free samples in a couple of my orders. ?

Check out: carzilla.ca

In fact, I just ordered some pads and the Sonax compound Mike mentioned above so I can remove the rub marks from my now deleted fender flares.

DAMN YOU PAN - DAMN YOU @Rinn69 :wink: ?
I love my sonax perfect finish . . .

I use it with a microfiber to get minor blemishes off paint . . .
 

DukeCanBuildit

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Jhbryaniv

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I just had to post pictures of the truck... ?
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