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XionUAV

XionUAV

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Don't let them suck you in to the damper war!
Won't happen. First time I lowered the tailgate on the ranger I thought " Man, this is light." I'm used to the tailgate of a '95 F250. Not light. If any tailgate could use a damper it's that one.
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XionUAV

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Here's the first mind-blowing stupidity regarding the rebuild.

Thought I'd be smart saving time and hassle ordering a prepainted upper bumper cover from Partify. This is how the upper bumper cover showed up today. They creased it in two places to FOLD IT FLAT AND PUT IT IN A BOX. WHAT THE HELL!!!???

What auto body school of delusion did they come from to think the plastic will magically unfold and be perfectly smooth again??? Absolutely unbelievable.

Later found a shipping confirmation email in my spam folder stating that the bumper had been shipped folded up. They do it to supposedly save on shipping and state that the cover will unfold and be like new. Yeah, I don't think so. They claim it would cost upwards of $300 for shipping otherwise.

I've had several large parts shipped already, including a full length, stiff plastic upper bumper cover support that cost about $60 to ship. The charge to paint the cover was $180. Obviously I won't even think of ordering anything from that company again and wouldn't recommend them.

As a professional, I am just absolutely baffled that a company would think that sending a plastic, painted body part in this manner would be acceptable, even if it was for a cheap, old import. I'll likely source another cover that doesn't have crease marks and just paint it myself. Seriously irritating.

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9zero1790

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some one else had a very similar experience lately. i forgot how it turned out but was shocked they thought folding plastic parts was a good idea...
 
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XionUAV

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On a much less annoying note, the skid plate, intake manifold, upper and lower cooling fan shrouds, Freedom upper control arms and Lund pocket flares have arrived. Decided not to even mess with the OEM arms given the 2-2.5" lift it will have. These control arms are seriously beefy.

Rough Country bumper will arrive in a couple of days. That will be good for measuring the bolt locations to get the frame straight. A company I ordered the skid plate from refunded me saying it was out of stock and on back-order until September, if I could wait. Ordered one from an eBay seller that had only 2 left out of a few dozen.

The flares will be painted white and one of the last things to go on.

One last big storm rolling through tonight then clearing, at least mostly, for the next week or so. Supposed to get up to 70° by this time next week. That means flooding for some. For me it means getting busy removing the fenders, radiator support and other damaged pieces so it can go to the frame shop.

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XionUAV

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some one else had a very similar experience lately. i forgot how it turned out but was shocked they thought folding plastic parts was a good idea...
At least Partify's customer service is better than their shipping standards. They replied stating that if I cut the cover in half they'll give me a full refund. Fair enough. I'll see if I can get one painted from the same company supplying the fender and hood.

Before doing that, I hung it up outside and stretched it out just for the heck of it. Definitely has creases that won't go away without some serious massaging. What a waste.

Forgot to mention that the grill arrived. Looks very nice. The truck currently has dark gray accents but because the Rough Country bumper is black, I'll probably leave the grill black as well. In the end the only gray will be the OEM rear bumper. Could paint it or have it powder coated but that would be waaay down the list.

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XionUAV

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Rough Country bumper arrived today. Looks good except for some scuffs and dings on the tips at the ends. Certainly could have been protected a little better but a great deal for the price. Hopefully some satin black paint will be good enough.

Next will be to source a grill for the open area where the LED bar light would go.

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RyanBoyd51

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I definitely recommend the Raptor coat for the bed if you have an afternoon and an electric or air sander and can scuff the bed. It cost me just a hair over $120 bucks and an afternoon and if you take time masking everything it turns out just like OEM. I am happy I went this route then pay for the dealer to do it.
I also have the Bilstein 5100’s. In my experience max out the frt suspension adjusters and it will sit just a hair raked with the rear a tad higher. My truck with one dirt bike sits almost leveled, with two bikes it’s perfectly leveled.

I’ve tried to find that bumper or that scratch and dent site you mentioned and no luck, any chance you would share your sources. Haha
 

RyanBoyd51

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Nvm I was able to find the site sir S&D. Man I’m going to go broke. Haha
 
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Glad you found it. I was just about to post it. For anyone else interested it's here - https://www.ebay.com/str/roughcountrysofficialsdstore

Whether I coat the bed myself or not will depend on how I'm feeling at the time and the cost, of course. Rhino Lining is very popular here in Utah but I haven't checked into it yet since my focus now is the frame and body repair. But it will be one of the first things I look into after most of the other stuff is finished.
 

rang19ca

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It looks like you are on a roll. You will have a great looking Ranger before too long.
 
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Thanks. Sure hope so. Have a long way to go still.
 
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I also have the Bilstein 5100’s. In my experience max out the frt suspension adjusters and it will sit just a hair raked with the rear a tad higher. My truck with one dirt bike sits almost leveled, with two bikes it’s perfectly leveled.
In one place it says the upmost slot will give 2.75" of lift, but in another place it says 2.5". I just want to raise it enough so the tires clear everything while turning with the suspension compressed. Don't want to put more of an angle on the CV joints than necessary so if the top notch gives 2.5" then that's what I'll do.

Got a shipping notice from Stage 3 that the shocks/struts are on their way so I'll see what the instructions say when they arrive.
 

RyanBoyd51

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They claim 70mm but it was more like 66mm in my experience. Clears my 285’s on stock wheels with 38 mm spacers.
 
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Well, here we go. Got both fenders off, the radiator and AC condenser out and removed some other stuff here and there. Tomorrow will start the radiator support removal.

The fenders are a pain because they're glued to the body at the door hinge with foam sealant. You have to cut the foam at the body to get the fenders off. It could mostly be cut from inside the fender with a little through the opening for the XLT badge and then from the door opening side. I'm assuming I'll have to cut out the plastic piece that connects the fender to the body at the door hinge and glue it to the new fender.

And then there was the "Ah chit" moment when I discovered the rack and pinion case is cracked in half. There goes another grand.

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