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SigOris

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Yes I hard wired mine so I didn't have to lift the hood every time I wanted to connect the maintainer by the clips. The charger itself isn't wired into the engine bay it's still remote and plugs into the wall outlet then the lead from the tow hook plugs into the lead from the charger. The longer leads are only for the quick connect lines running to the maintainer. Sorry if what I said earlier was confusing it's been a long week. lol :crazy:

Here's the link to the CTEK charger and halfway down the page on the left side you'll see the User Manual PDF.

https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00CD44RQ...olid=1JZJN0W5WUIWA&psc=1&ref_=lv_ov_lig_dp_it
Looks like nice unit, and apologies about hijacking your thread
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AzScorpion

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Looks like nice unit, and apologies about hijacking your thread
It is a really good unit. I just connected mine Sunday and it only showed 3 bars and the next morning it was back to fully charged. They're good to have for peace of mind as there's always a constant drain on these batteries and IMHO they also don't seem to be very good.
 

SigOris

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It is a really good unit. I just connected mine Sunday and it only showed 3 bars and the next morning it was back to fully charged. They're good to have for peace of mind as there's always a constant drain on these batteries and IMHO they also don't seem to be very good.
I did the permanent install on the Polaris Ranger as we would weeks without using and winters in Maine can be challenging at times. Although I’ve read your high heat in AZ is even harder on batteries.
 

Trigganometry

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I use the CTEK charger as well. My negative is to chassis and positive on the battery. My BMS system likes it that way. I also added this connector to my grille so I don’t have to open the hood and I can seal it when not in use so it stays clean. Works awesome!
 

tgRanger

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So I have my Battery Tender Plus hard wired. Apparently after reading everything it looks like I may have incorrectly installed mine. Could someone verify if I should ground to chassis even with a BTP? Thanks
4C13744B-349A-46AC-B23D-AD27391AC00C.jpeg
 


Trigganometry

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So I have my Battery Tender Plus hard wired. Apparently after reading everything it looks like I may have incorrectly installed mine. Could someone verify if I should ground to chassis even with a BTP? Thanks
4C13744B-349A-46AC-B23D-AD27391AC00C.jpeg
Negative wire should be a chassis connection and not on the battery
 

tgRanger

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Negative wire should be a chassis connection and not on the battery
Thanks Rick, I just ordered a 4ft lead to pop out my driver tow hook like Dave @AzScorpion did (great idea). I’ll make the changes then.
 

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Thanks Rick, I just ordered a 4ft lead to pop out my driver tow hook like Dave @AzScorpion did (great idea). I’ll make the changes then.
Tony you might want to get the 8.5' lead. I know it sounds like a lot but you'll need it to go across the front and down to the tow hook. I didn't know they made a 4' one but that might work if you drop it straight down to the drivers side tow hook. I had to go across because my outlet is on the passengers side.

For the ground see post #7. You have to take that plastic cover off in front of it and use an open end wrench. The screw is long and barely has enough room to come out but it will. Just don't drop it. lol
 

tgRanger

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Tony you might want to get the 8.5' lead. I know it sounds like a lot but you'll need it to go across the front and down to the tow hook. I didn't know they made a 4' one but that might work if you drop it straight down to the drivers side tow hook. I had to go across because my outlet is on the passengers side.

For the ground see post #7. You have to take that plastic cover off in front of it and use an open end wrench. The screw is long and barely has enough room to come out but it will. Just don't drop it. lol
Hey Dave, yeah I went out after I ordered the lead and realized it wouldn’t be long enough, my 2ft barely makes it past the bottom of the battery. I was able to cancel it and went with a 7ft. Also I’m having mine exit out the drivers side so it sbould be plenty. Thanks for the help and thank you to the OP for bringing this to light. :thumbsup:
 

tgRanger

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Tony you might want to get the 8.5' lead. I know it sounds like a lot but you'll need it to go across the front and down to the tow hook. I didn't know they made a 4' one but that might work if you drop it straight down to the drivers side tow hook. I had to go across because my outlet is on the passengers side.

For the ground see post #7. You have to take that plastic cover off in front of it and use an open end wrench. The screw is long and barely has enough room to come out but it will. Just don't drop it. lol
Hey Dave. I got the lead today and did the install, also went and grounded to the chassis.. 7ft lead was plenty to pop out the drivers side, I had a little over a foot left. Thanks for the great idea, help and pictures.. Same goes for @RANGERPRIDE, @Trigganometry and the OP for starting this thread!
B4D08FDD-D34B-4B84-8BED-24A68B95820D.jpeg
75A3051E-6BBA-4A02-A31A-197C9D1AE34E.jpeg
 

AzScorpion

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Hey Dave. I got the lead today and did the install, also went and grounded to the chassis.. 7ft lead was plenty to pop out the drivers side, I had a little over a foot left. Thanks for the great idea, help and pictures.. Same goes for @RANGERPRIDE, @Trigganometry and the OP for starting this thread!
B4D08FDD-D34B-4B84-8BED-24A68B95820D.jpeg
75A3051E-6BBA-4A02-A31A-197C9D1AE34E.jpeg
Glad it worked out for you Tony. You'll find yourself using it more now that you have the quick connect setup. :like:
 

subquark

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Glad it worked out for you Tony. You'll find yourself using it more now that you have the quick connect setup. :like:
This is great information and because I often move my truck out of the driveway to the street and back, my battery doesn't get much of a charge (not like it does on my epic road-trip like dump runs of 1.6 miles). *roll eyes*

In the old days you could just up the RPMs for a few minutes to get back to a full charge, but new cars (LOL, newer than 50 years old) have the BMS or BCS or some BS that keeps that from being effective. =p

And my 50 year old Craftsman trickle charger won't do what you're doing with the CTEK charger. So here's my question:

What's the best CTEK for the Ranger?

It seems like the most expensive may not be the most optimal, but my understanding of these smart charges ain't so smart on my part! =D

I was comparing CTEK MUS 7002 to CTEK MXS 5.0 with their chart,

I'd like to set it up like you do with a connector permanently wired in the truck.

So, what does everyone recommend? Thanks!
 

SigOris

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This is great information and because I often move my truck out of the driveway to the street and back, my battery doesn't get much of a charge (not like it does on my epic road-trip like dump runs of 1.6 miles). *roll eyes*

In the old days you could just up the RPMs for a few minutes to get back to a full charge, but new cars (LOL, newer than 50 years old) have the BMS or BCS or some BS that keeps that from being effective. =p

And my 50 year old Craftsman trickle charger won't do what you're doing with the CTEK charger. So here's my question:

What's the best CTEK for the Ranger?

It seems like the most expensive may not be the most optimal, but my understanding of these smart charges ain't so smart on my part! =D

I was comparing CTEK MUS 7002 to CTEK MXS 5.0 with their chart,

I'd like to set it up like you do with a connector permanently wired in the truck.

So, what does everyone recommend? Thanks!
The one Ford Accessories sells is a rebranded CTEK MXS 5.0 if that’s any help. As an EE it’s the one I’ll purchase for my 22 Ranger and one for our 21 Bronco Sport both as permanent installs.
 

subquark

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The one Ford Accessories sells is a rebranded CTEK MXS 5.0 if that’s any help. As an EE it’s the one I’ll purchase for my 22 Ranger and one for our 21 Bronco Sport both as permanent installs.
That is phenomenal info - thanks for your excellent detective work! =)
 

AzScorpion

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This is great information and because I often move my truck out of the driveway to the street and back, my battery doesn't get much of a charge (not like it does on my epic road-trip like dump runs of 1.6 miles). *roll eyes*

In the old days you could just up the RPMs for a few minutes to get back to a full charge, but new cars (LOL, newer than 50 years old) have the BMS or BCS or some BS that keeps that from being effective. =p

And my 50 year old Craftsman trickle charger won't do what you're doing with the CTEK charger. So here's my question:

What's the best CTEK for the Ranger?

It seems like the most expensive may not be the most optimal, but my understanding of these smart charges ain't so smart on my part! =D

I was comparing CTEK MUS 7002 to CTEK MXS 5.0 with their chart,

I'd like to set it up like you do with a connector permanently wired in the truck.

So, what does everyone recommend? Thanks!
David all the links to what I bought are in the link below. I bought the Ford maintainer (used my Ford points) but it's the same Ctek just rebranded for Ford.

https://www.ranger5g.com/forum/threads/fordpass-app-message.20787/post-447866
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