What did you do to your Ranger today?

[NotBudule]

I spent more time than I should have in the back trying to stretch an armrest cover in place , The Ranger armrest is a slow torture device imo , instead of taking a Sawzall to my Lazy boy to hack off a proper armrest , I tried Amazon's choice , 15 bucks... it's an improvement I guess ? but sandpaper would be too...

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[AzScorpion]

Nice to see proper spelling! =) *waves from Portsmouth*

Anytime neighbah!

You all are making me a little homesick. Originally a Masshole here. Now I'm hungry for some Lobstah. ?

 

[Colo_Ranger]

Project is finished and wired up. Everything works perfectly.

A couple notes:

1. I added some rubber c-channel to the edges to protect any wires from rubbing.
2. I may add a support to the front. It would come off and bolt to the airbox bolt.
3. This is pretty well set, but it will have to be pulled at least one more time. I need to glue the rubber strips so they don't slide. This gives me expandability, so I will probably be adding a busbar for power and ground (my battery is maxed out on connections), which will add weight (and the reason for the front support).

I really like how it turned out and it will make wiring new accessories much easier, as the runs will be shorter and there is less plumbing. I'm still will be using electrical tape to cover the whole wire loom I created, but I ran out of steam and wanted to make sure it worked before I tied it all up.

 

[RangerMags]

I have a simple RC level kit, so I went with a 275.65.18 with no spacers, i just feel sketchy about spacers. I did not want any rubbing at all and it rides awesome with the Wildpeak AT3 on.

Based on this do you think 275/70/17s would be fine as well? Trying to avoid spacers but want to go up on the tire size. Currently running the stock 265/65/17 Hancook Dynapros

 

[EDSEL FX4]

Based on this do you think 275/70/17s would be fine as well? Trying to avoid spacers but want to go up on the tire size. Currently running the stock 265/65/17 Hancook Dynapros

I finally put the 275.65.18 Wildpeak AT3w without spacers and I have zero rubbing. It's the exact look I was looking for.

 

[Roofhopper]

Dropped mine off at the dealer this morning due to constant blowing of hot air. I suspect it has a failed blend door actuator. Thank God I bought premium care warranty lol

 

[WolfgangVTS]

So I got new wheels put on my Ranger today and washed it. Here’s the before:

Now here’s the after:

I was fortunate enough last week to find these wheels w/tpms sensors for an incredible $250. This is what should have been on the truck from the start. I am super happy with the look now. Now off to get the AVS Aeroskin II deflector and my blacked out emblem overlays. Yep, I’m lazy and don’t feel like removing the badges and swapping them out. Plus they’re a hell of a lot cheaper.

 

[Dr3wDrop]

Figured I would share with the group. Found a pretty good K&N knockoff air filter for $25.
I had this brand on my last two Jeeps and it worked out great. Just pull out and air it out and rinse with a hose and its good to go.

https://www.amazon.com/dp/B085X3GDQ...colid=132LTVS9WYT16&ref_=lv_ov_lig_dp_it&th=1

 

[OFC Ranger]

Project is finished and wired up. Everything works perfectly.

A couple notes:

1. I added some rubber c-channel to the edges to protect any wires from rubbing.
2. I may add a support to the front. It would come off and bolt to the airbox bolt.
3. This is pretty well set, but it will have to be pulled at least one more time. I need to glue the rubber strips so they don't slide. This gives me expandability, so I will probably be adding a busbar for power and ground (my battery is maxed out on connections), which will add weight (and the reason for the front support).

I really like how it turned out and it will make wiring new accessories much easier, as the runs will be shorter and there is less plumbing. I'm still will be using electrical tape to cover the whole wire loom I created, but I ran out of steam and wanted to make sure it worked before I tied it all up.

This is how I ran mine to keep things off the engine and other parts, (I drilled little holes in the plastic trim on the back walls so I could run zipties through them);

 

[Colo_Ranger]

The pictures are deceiving, but there is a ton of clearance between the plate and any engine components. I do think I will make a bracket to support the weight in the front, but that'll have to wait for another day.

 

[Roofhopper]

Thank God for premium care

 

[Danager]

I am on vacation so I am taking some time to tweak things here and there. I got the bed slide moving smoothly, it rolls on its own of it is unlocked.

I also took the time to try an idea for more/versatile tie-down points along the bed side. I had some extra 10/30 - 1”x3”extruded aluminum(because I overthink and re-do things sometimes…). I added a piece behind the front and rear factory-installed tie-down points. I also added an extension behind one of the middle tie-downs I added. And because the middle extension only had one bolt securing it, I ran a piece of 10/10 (1”) connecting it to the rear piece. I am really happy with the result. It is really strong and extremely secure. I may order some better looking bolts, but these Home Depot bolts are doing just fine. This is far less expensive than any of the molle panels available. I also like the fact that these are hard mounts. I am going to measure up and install a couple across the front of the bed, and also down the passenger side.

 

[OrangeStreak]

Thank God for premium care

Ted,
I've got PremiumCare also. Do you know what the cost of this service would have been without the warranty?

 

[Glocker]

Thank God for premium care

Right!? This exact repair on a customer's Ranger caused me to march my ass back to the finance dept and buy the warranty!!!!!

 

[Roofhopper]

Ted,
I've got PremiumCare also. Do you know what the cost of this service would have been without the warranty?

Not exactly. I know it wouldn’t have been cheap though. They had it in the shop for 2.5 days. Only cost me $100 ?

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