Front Coil over help

[hersh]

So im trying to replace my coil overs on my 21 Ranger and am having a hell of a time getting the knuckle loose from the upper arm. Same with the tie rod on the lower. Anyone else have a trick to break them free?

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[AzScorpion]

Have you seen this video from another member here? Robert @R_B sent it to me and I think ( I had someone instal mine) it shows how Josh took everything apart. Hope it helps.

 

[Dereku]

A pickle fork works great but can damage the ball joint boot. I have a big brass cylinder, about red bull can size, I used to hammer ball joints out from the stud side. Avoids thread damage. Those are the only two ways I have popped them loose.

 

[hersh]

Have you seen this video from another member here? Robert @R_B sent it to me and I think ( I had someone instal mine) it shows how Josh took everything apart. Hope it helps.

Thanks for the post! Defiantly looks way easier dropping the LCR than removing everything else....I give it a go.

 

[Bravohook]

So im trying to replace my coil overs on my 21 Ranger and am having a hell of a time getting the knuckle loose from the upper arm. Same with the tie rod on the lower. Anyone else have a trick to break them free?

You need the righr BFH....they take a good smack to get them loose. Especially if you have the cast iron knuckles

 

[R_B]

Thanks for the post! Defiantly looks way easier dropping the LCR than removing everything else....I give it a go.

Hi Josh. You are probably finished by the time you see this reply, lol.

It does seem easier to remove the coil over by removing the lower control arm. The tall studs surely get in the way.

But notice on his video, he is also replacing the upper control arms. Mine came apart easy but could only install one bolt in the lower control arm when trying to reinstall everything.
The new coil over is Big!
Notice how when he removed the upper control arm, he stabs the lower control arm bolts.

When pushing up with a jack on the lower control arm, it lifted the whole truck some.

I ended up removing the two lines on the spindle and the stabilizer link.
Removed the stabilizer link out of the spindle. I loosened the nut connecting the upper control arm to the spindle and left 5 threads or so attached.

When looking at the instructions on my laptop, the spindle popped apart all by itself!
I never removed the axle nut on one side.
I did use a bungie cord wrapped around the spindle and hooked it on or by the upper control arm to hold everything in place.

Then as I raised and lowered the floor jack I had under the lower control arm like Josh's video, I was able to stab a Philips screwdriver in the other bolt hole and then pop in the bolt.

I don't remember removing the outer tie rod when doing all of this.

When I did the other side, I removed the axle nut (35MM, not 32MM as mentioned in my Eibach instructions) & everything else including the tie rod but did not remove the lower control arm 2 bolts.
It was a lot harder trying to remove the stock coil over because of the long studs on top and bottom.

I used a pry bar inserted in the upper control arm and pushed hard and finally got it removed.

When comparing both removal methods, removing the lower control arm bolts made it easier to remove but think the axle nut removal is the way to go.

I did have to remove all of the other stuff anyway to reinstall it so, I would consider removing the axle nut way first.
I have read some folks grind off the studs.

With the axle nut removed and being more familiar with the whole process, the other side went a lot faster. I torqued the axle nut some with an electric impact gun while still off the ground.

I removed the small plastic round piece on the wheel to insert the 35MM socket through to further tighten it when the truck is on the ground. I do not have someone to press the brake while off the ground.

My torque wrench only goes to 150ft. lbs. so I torqued to 150 and went a some more.
I am aware that the instructions say to install the nut with one full motion to 241 ft. lb.

I have driven to the store a few times and was going to adjust the side to side height with the spanner wrench before going in for an alignment. I think it is about 1/8" difference. No big deal.
I will have the Mechanic torque it to specs with his torque wrench when I get an alignment.

Good luck, I know you can do it! Robert

 

[Aonarch]

Use penatrant oil.

Loosen the nut all the way down to the bottom of the stud and leave it on.

Take a big fing hammer to the side of the knuckle.

You can also tap (Not hammer) the nut on the ball joint studs.

 

[Todd Chapin]

Word to the wise, despite others making it sound simple, unless you are 100 percent you have the right tools swapping out the struts is a difficult job, particularly on 4x4. I have done previous lifts but gladly paid to have my coilovers installed.

 

[Todd Chapin]

OP I hope things work out , I feel you as I have been stuck.

 

[NotBudule]

Video your struggles sir ! Some will laugh , some will learn... you may save someone from getting in over their heads , me mostly ...

 

[DukeCanBuildit]

Most of the videos out there are for the aluminum knuckle and it looks easy because with the aluminum knuckle, it is - if you have cast iron, it will require more effort, more tools, and more knowledge.

 

[gwhalin]

I added to my tools. Didn’t need to smack on my shit with a hammer.

OTC 6295 Front End Service Set for Pitman Arms, Ball Joints, and Tie Rods https://www.amazon.com/dp/B0002SRH7O/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_i_V4VFXY4M6GSXZZHXRB68?_encoding=UTF8&psc=1

 

[Dereku]

If I recall the CV nut is torque to yield and is one time use. Not an expensive part but should always keep one on hand if you need to remove it.

 

[fORdEGON]

I would agree that removing the hub nut is the way to go. I used a ratchet strap to keep my half shafts in place and avoid putting strain on the CVs when dropping the LCA and knuckle out of the way when swapping the coil overs.

The wheel hub nut should be replaced. I had 221ft/lbs in my notes.

My truck has the steel spindles and had already seen a full winter in Canada with some road salt and there was no way the tie rod and upper ball joint studs were coming loose without a good puller.

 

[JohnnyO]

I've had one side of mine apart twice trying to put strut spacers on without success.
The first time my bud helped me, got the ball joint off but not the tie rod end. The next weekend my bud was not available to help but I got the tie rod end off with a gear puller. I still couldn't push the lower control arm down far enough by myself to get the strut out. Just going to save up some money and pay a shop the $450 they quoted me for install and alignment. If they have to unbolt the lower control arm it's no big deal since they'll align it anyway.

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