What did you do to your Ranger today?

[dlow206]

Got my windows tinted today. 20% in the front two windows, 35% on the rear windows. Reason for 35% was to not make the rear windows too dark. Got the Xpel Prime XR Ceramic film for the heat rejection. Seattle is not known for being hot but it does get hotter than people think here in the summer.

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[BigHen0213]

1. Installed a Go Rhino Black Matte Exhaust Tip 3" inlet, 4" outlet, 10" length (GRT3410B). Matches great with the STX trim. I started by using a 3/8" drive and tightened it all the way but the Exhaust tip was still loose. I then decided to go with a 1/2" but said no, too much torque will surely strip the threads. I remembered that Turborave said to use WD 40 on the threads and this did the trick. I placed the back edge of the clamp 1/8" from the back edge of the Exhaust Tip and tightened it down easily with the 3/8" drive.

2. Installed a black velour Dash Designs dash cover to match the ebony interior. The cutouts for the vents, storage tray and Pre-collision indicator were exactly in the right positions. The overall size was a perfect fit everywhere. The seams were smooth and uniform. I used the velcro fasteners and the cover lies flat with no ripples or humps.

I installed the same tailpiece extension. Be forewarned, it fades quickly. I repainted it once using a matte black heat paint (for grilles). Looks better, but I expect it to fade again over time.

 

[OrangeStreak]

I installed the same tailpiece extension. Be forewarned, it fades quickly. I repainted it once using a matte black heat paint (for grilles). Looks better, but I expect it to fade again over time.

John, Thanks for the heads up. One issue is that Go Rhino said that this Exhaust tip should not be used as an extension but that the outer end of the tip should be installed as close as possible to the outer end of the tailpipe. Photo 2 shows my tailpipe end close to the end of the Exhaust tip. My thinking is that airspace between the tailpipe and the Exhaust Tip insulates the Exhaust tip from extreme exhaust temperatures to protect the paint? Let me know what brand of paint you used in case I have this problem. Any idea of what temperature rating it carries?

 

[dapakattack]

Cool, thanks. I just found this picture on a Shrock Works rock slider thread. Shows all four. Great assist and info on this. Thanks for your help!

The bolts on most of the Ford parts sites are reasonably priced. When you add the 4 bolts (W505443S439) with the plate (KB3Z-7E063-A), roughly $11 for shipping seems fare. However, if you only order 1 bolt like I did (I thought I was getting 4 like what was pictured on the parts site) then the same shipping cost for only 3 bolts is outrageous! An M10-1.5x30mm bolt from Home Depot will work. Make sure to pick up a few washers too.

That being said: "What did I do to my Ranger Today?" - I installed the plate this morning.

 

[KJ Mick]

Red Tow Hooks & LED Side-Markers ?

 

[DukeCanBuildit]

Installed the @Fordrangerlifts.com 2.5” Leveling kit. Unfortunately during the process I popped one of the sway bar end links.

Joel, that anti-sway bar link should pop back in - it might take some force. There should be a retainer ring for the boot somewhere under your truck. ?

I read in one thread this sometimes happens if lifting one side of the truck at a time to do this work rather than placing it level on two jack stands - apparently, the angle places pressure/torque on the anti-sway bar.

The level looks great - certainly well-suited to your overlanding setup. Good job! The wobbly pop is well-deserved.

 

[OFC Ranger]

OK, just a few photos of what I have been working on.

I basically redid the entire sub-frame that connects the RCI bed rack to the top roof platform. So in a nut shell you have the same six "extension bars" that allow the roof platform to to have a connection point past the RCI racks support legs, but I also have these bars running the spine of the bed rack. More or less there are now a total of 22 heavy duty rubber spacers providing support. Each spacer has a 4 1/2" carriage bolt going down it and a wash with nylon locking nut draws everything tight. Previous design did have some limited metal on metal contact and this eliminates that and some odd vibrations it would cause under right circumstances (which I tried to quick fix with felt, but did not work). Once the skirting is re-install, as before all of this is hidden except if you look up from the bed area.

Second up self explanatory, took the front light bar and tucked it under the rack, verses being on the outside of the frame.

Last I got in the solar panel aluminum "Z" brackets. Cept they ain't for solar panels. I got my handy dandy drill and opened up the holes on them to accept the 1/2" bolts that RCI uses for their rack and panels. These will basically operate as stand-off brackets for the new panels coming in. Here is the best way I can mock it up for you. Five panels total (one slightly shorter for rear). All will be tied together using custom made mending plates as their lengths don't quite cover 120 inches. I will tie in the front somehow down the line, just still mulling over what to do.

Also I was screwing around with how aux lighting can connectot the RCI panels. It really is like molle, but for lights. No more drilling holes, then wanting to try something else.... and drilling more holes. Sure it limits me to some fixed points, but still a lot better than the previous method.

 

[VoodooRanger]

Joel, that anti-sway bar link should pop back in - it might take some force. There should be a retainer ring for the boot somewhere under your truck. ?

I read in one thread this sometimes happens if lifting one side of the truck at a time to do this work rather than placing it level on two jack stands - apparently, the angle places pressure/torque on the anti-sway bar.

The level looks great - certainly well-suited to your overlanding setup. Good job! The wobbly pop is well-deserved.

Thanks for the tip. I tried yesterday with a clamp, as well the barbaric way of a hammer to no avail. I'm worried that after it popped out that the integrity of the link may be affected.

 

[Ranger54]

Removed my Traxda 1” level on my Ranger, installed the Rough Country 2.5” Level on my Dad and I’s new Rangers! Alignment tomorrow. Next up for mine is 285/70R17/Fuel Trophy and dad will take my 1” faction fab spacers.

 

[Steve in CO]

Installed my TAC 4" step rails. Ford made the install really easy.

 

[Steve in CO]

And then this got delivered right after I got the step rails installed

 

[Dinglehead]

I disabled that ASS with the little inline doohickie that forces the truck to remember whether you want it on or not.

Getting that wire unhooked from the button assembly is way harder than the dude in the video made it look - but it was worth the struggle.

 

[JJG]

Installed Fox shocks on the rear, and I will say what a difference!!! The ride is now predictable, bounce is gone, and shall I say perfectly dampened ?. Now Im “double dampened” on the tailgate and rear suspension. Lets just say she was rode hard and put away damp, today. ?

 

[RARanger]

Installed the LED side marker lights, really like the way it looks. Got LED fog lights in the mail yesterday, but am having a hard time figuring out how to get them in there. Youtube shows being able to reach from underneath, but I think my arms are too short. Probably going to remove some of the retainer pins in the wheel well and go in that way.

 

[Rangerguy]

I just watched my Ranger from indoors today. Wind chill -26C, snowed all day with howling wind.

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