What did you do to your Ranger today?

[mlarma]

Bushwacker rocker panel and sill plate protector thingies FINALLY installed. First good day since before Christmas. Also got my 3D printed ignition bezel ring. Got tired of blindly putting key into hole around the ignition. How/why Ford didn’t put those in there is beyond me. So dumb.

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[Glocker]

Bushwacker rocker panel and sill plate protector thingies FINALLY installed. First good day since before Christmas. Also got my 3D printed ignition bezel ring. Got tired of blindly putting key into hole around the ignition. How/why Ford didn’t put those in there is beyond me. So dumb.

Any concerns with moisture getting trapped between that panel and the rocker panel?

 

[mlarma]

Any concerns with moisture getting trapped between that panel and the rocker panel?

Not really as there are spots at the ends that it’ll drain. I also had no dings there before doing this so I don’t foresee any spots that are already primed for rusting. I will certainly keep an eye on it. Since it is “just” taped on, I can get it off, albeit with a heat gun. Mine will not be going any further off road than maybe a muddy dirt road once or twice in its life. Meaning I go camping and preferably not in the rain but don’t go mudding or the like. I want my truck to last 10 years with me at least not 5 Anyway, maybe call those folks at Bushwacker and see what they say would be my suggestion. They make those for other vehicles so maybe checking on those forums. Gooogled for bushwhacker rocker rust and funny enough a lot of folks would get them to cover up rust they already had and used self tapping screws sometimes. That sounds terrible. It sticks great to clean paint so I don’t anticipate issues based on what I’ve read so far.

 

[Steve23]

Put on my black/silver Ford emblems on the back and front. Also put my seahawk emblem on (if it looks blue it’s because my recycling bin behind it).

 

[DukeCanBuildit]

I swapped out my OEM Intrusion beams aka crash bars for the Readylift bars, impressive design, I am not a metal gauge guy and I forgot to take an end view side by side photo before install but to my naked eye these new bars appear to be every bit of 3/16" thick or a tad more and the OEM bars looked to be about 1/8th inch thick.
Thanks Dukecanbuildit for your insight.

? Good job Mike - sounds like it all worked out. The pics are great and others will be happy to know what worked for you.

Those ReadyLIFT beams are super beefy. They are 3/16” thick and the extra centre “rib” is 1/4” thick. They’re made of a different kind of steel than the OEM crash bars - I don’t recall if it’s a stronger steel or not but I gave @HenryMac some drawings and measurements - he wants to do some CAD models for FEA testing and he knows the steel they’re fabricated from. It should be interesting to see what he finds out.

Enjoy that feeling of satisfaction from a job well done!

 

[Fawnbuster]

? Good job Mike - sounds like it all worked out. The pics are great and others will be happy to know what worked for you.

Those ReadyLIFT beams are super beefy. They are 3/16” thick and the extra centre “rib” is 1/4” thick. They’re made of a different kind of steel than the OEM crash bars - I don’t recall if it’s a stronger steel or not but I gave @HenryMac some drawings and measurements - he wants to do some CAD models for FEA testing and he knows the steel they’re fabricated from. It should be interesting to see what he finds out.

Enjoy that feeling of satisfaction from a job well done!

Thanks Duke! This is direct off or their website "
These new high-clearance anti-intrusion beams are precision engineered and manufactured using heavy-duty laser cut and robot-welded steel and have been verified with Finite Element Analysis to meet the engineering specifications of the factory anti-intrusion beams.

Accessory kit 67-2900 is uniquely designed for the 2019-UP Ford Ranger front suspension. This kit includes two forward and two rearward replacement high-clearance anti-intrusion beams and installs with some minor disassembly simply to remove the factory beams and install your new ReadyLIFT high-clearance anti-intrusion beams. The notched design allows for more clearance when turning with larger tires while retaining the occupant safety and security."

 

[DukeCanBuildit]

Thanks Duke! This is direct off or their website "
These new high-clearance anti-intrusion beams are precision engineered and manufactured using heavy-duty laser cut and robot-welded steel and have been verified with Finite Element Analysis to meet the engineering specifications of the factory anti-intrusion beams.

Accessory kit 67-2900 is uniquely designed for the 2019-UP Ford Ranger front suspension. This kit includes two forward and two rearward replacement high-clearance anti-intrusion beams and installs with some minor disassembly simply to remove the factory beams and install your new ReadyLIFT high-clearance anti-intrusion beams. The notched design allows for more clearance when turning with larger tires while retaining the occupant safety and security."

That’s very carefully worded and vetted by lawyers - “meeting engineering specs” and “performing as well as” are completely different things. I would bet they exceed the OEM in performance but no company is going to go out on that limb.

 

[Fawnbuster]

That’s very carefully worded and vetted by lawyers - “meeting engineering specs” and “performing as well as” are completely different things. I would bet they exceed the OEM in performance but no company is going to go out on that limb.

Agreed, I am comfortable with them.

 

[ShastaRN]

I swapped out my OEM Intrusion beams aka crash bars for the Readylift bars, impressive design, I am not a metal gauge guy and I forgot to take an end view side by side photo before install but to my naked eye these new bars appear to be every bit of 3/16" thick or a tad more and the OEM bars looked to be about 1/8th inch thick. I did attach before and after Pic collages, I used a Lenox Metal max 4.5" angle grinder blade to cut about 75% thru then finished that cut off with the Lenox medium to thick metal blades. If I owned a 6inch grinder I could've cut them entirely off, that blade is a beast! The Sawzall blades worked but I used them all, because of the angles and tight space I could only use part of each blade before dulling it or banging it and bending it too many times. If I had a lift I may have been able to cut more with the grinder from below, I didn't want to have my face right under the sparks laying on my back.

I sprayed bedliner on the new ones to help with corrosion, going to add 1 more coat later. I know they are powder coated but that's sure to take a beating on short order. The only other thing I did that wasn't on the instructions was to drill a small hole in the plastic liner and the hard plastic crash bumper behind and above the rear bar and ziptied it once to keep it from flapping and or rubbing and lessen debris. Due to pulling the liner back for install I wasn't sure if it would go back to its original state.

Broke my cheap impact wrench at some point prior to starting but my Ridgid cordless one was able to get the lugs off easily.

Used a Menards rebate check to buy a 12 ton bottle jack and a set of 6 ton jack stands, worked great ?


Thanks Dukecanbuildit for your insight.

Did you have to take anything off prior to putting on your NEW intrusion bars?
Bumper? or anything else have to be removed?
I am waiting for mine to come in and then do install. Thanks for the post.

 

[Fawnbuster]

Did you have to take anything off prior to putting on your NEW intrusion bars?
Bumper? or anything else have to be removed?
I am waiting for mine to come in and then do install. Thanks for the post.

No bumper removal, removed the plastic shroud on the front bar , cut the bar off near the insertion spot, unbolted it , slid out the remainder and slid in the new one and bolted it in
The rear ones took a little more time, removed a few plastic fasteners and one screw to pull the wheel well liner back then removed 4 bolts to get the.plastic crash block or whatever it's called out of the way, that allows access to remove the outboard bolt after cutting the beam , cut the beam, remove 2 long bolts from the top (nut is welded onto the bottom) slide out the remnant, put the new bar in ,bolt it in per specs, reassemble the wheel well liner and put the wheels back on. I tried to remove the rear one without taking that plastic block off but it can't be done.


If you go to readylift.com and find the intrusion beams you can scroll down and open or download the instructions, all in color pics. Only confusing part was the picture of the rear beam was sideways and took a second to orient myself.

 

[ShastaRN]

No bumper removal, removed the plastic shroud on the front bar , cut the bar off near the insertion spot, unbolted it , slid out the remainder and slid in the new one and bolted it in
The rear ones took a little more time, removed a few plastic fasteners and one screw to pull the wheel well liner back then removed 4 bolts to get the.plastic crash block or whatever it's called out of the way, that allows access to remove the outboard bolt after cutting the beam , cut the beam, remove 2 long bolts from the top (nut is welded onto the bottom) slide out the remnant, put the new bar in ,bolt it in per specs, reassemble the wheel well liner and put the wheels back on. I tried to remove the rear one without taking that plastic block off but it can't be done.


If you go to readylift.com and find the intrusion beams you can scroll down and open or download the instructions, all in color pics. Only confusing part was the picture of the rear beam was sideways and took a second to orient myself.

Thank you much for the reply. I'll download their instructions. Appreciate the feedback.

 

[Ranger Danger01]

The pressure washer and foam cannon make washing so much more fun and easier. Been doing it this way for years and could not go back to just bucket washing after this. Here's the foam cannon I really want but it's $1,500.

Since you're not rocking out with the AR-15 foam cannon, which one are you using and what soap/foam? I know you may have mentioned this in a past post, but I'm feeling lazy to look for it. (No damper on my tailgate is wearing me out...lol).

Thanks
E

 

[codestp202]

Put a light bar on and diy'd a bracket. Bracket was painted post test fit

 

[AzScorpion]

Since you're not rocking out with the AR-15 foam cannon, which one are you using and what soap/foam? I know you may have mentioned this in a past post, but I'm feeling lazy to look for it. (No damper on my tailgate is wearing me out...lol).

Thanks
E

I'm using the Trinova Foam Cannon and the Chemical Guys Honeydew Snow Foam soap. Whats nice about the Trinova Cannon is it has a wide base so when you set it down it doesn't tip over like the tall thinner ones. Plus it holds enough to do 3-4 washes.

You really need to get that damper situation taken care of. ?

https://www.amazon.com/dp/B072JNQQY...olid=18AQHC875EVXC&psc=1&ref_=lv_ov_lig_dp_it

https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B06VS4JH62/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_asin_title_o03_s01?ie=UTF8&psc=1

 

[FoD]

Installed the Bullet Proof mount today (thanks to @WxNerd2015 Trevor) for his great install build/pics to begin with and answer a question or two from me).

Take the time to read what others have done/directions and it took me about an hour by myself...including, yes having to uninstall it to route the cable through the middle roof slot (somebody had mentioned that in a thread, but duh?!). Hardest part is deciding how YOU want to do it.

I popped the C pillar panel edges along the back and the back panel bar, but did not completely take them out, just enough to route cable behind them. So the cable runs along the rear window top to the passenger C pillar panels, down the rear window C pillar edge ( under it) to the cross panel on rear wall. Underneath that panel to right above the first child restraint. Down and out that cutout.

Snap panels back into place, reverse of popping them and done.

My time was about 5 minutes each for setup, put away; 10 minutes to CAREFULLY pop the panels involved; 20 minutes to get the zip tie tip to where I could raise the liner and see the end of the zip tie to grab with needle nose plyers (this is where two people would be best); 10 minutes to route cable well so no panel pinching; about 10 minutes to pop panels back in, clean off, inspect and take a pic of final.

No drilling or cutting BTW.

?
Always a good look to get a reflection capture in pics lol!!!

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