TechnicallyReal
Well-Known Member
That's what I thought - but in the video I didn't do anything underneath other than simply push up while also pulling up from the other side. No releasing clips or compressing prongs.
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armoredpig
Well-Known Member
I didn't watch your video until now! That would make life much easier. I'll give it a try later since I plan to disassemble the switch and put the black trim on. Trying to get the flack black switch surround back on
TechnicallyReal
Well-Known Member
I just tried pulling from the top only - absolutely do not do this! haha.. the twistable part of the knob just comes off as well as the circle trim piece below it, leaving other parts behind. Nothing broke, fortunately.
However I did re-confirm that you can push out the whole thing upwards and out without compressing the prongs. Although it's a little easier if you can feel for them and compress them.
TechnicallyReal
Well-Known Member
In order to clip the parts above back together I had to undo the 2 screws in the bottom of the knob, clip the parts together, and then reassemble. Out of curiosity I took apart both the original knob and the new knob.. This was also a chance for me to grab the darker ring from the old knob which I prefer to the silver ring on the new knob..
Spot the differences:
Interestingly the center button on the old knob does depress and both PCBs look the same, including the contacts for the center button. The silicone membrane on the old knob is simply missing the black contact points and are instead filled in.
I tried putting the silicone membrane from the new knob into the old knob and plugged it into the truck, but sadly, it did not work. I was excited that I may have found a way to get TM for free by simply modifying the non-TM membrane. Ah well.
Upon closer inspection the non-TM PCB has some different numbers on it.. despite having the same components and overall part number.
Spot the differences:
Interestingly the center button on the old knob does depress and both PCBs look the same, including the contacts for the center button. The silicone membrane on the old knob is simply missing the black contact points and are instead filled in.
I tried putting the silicone membrane from the new knob into the old knob and plugged it into the truck, but sadly, it did not work. I was excited that I may have found a way to get TM for free by simply modifying the non-TM membrane. Ah well.
Upon closer inspection the non-TM PCB has some different numbers on it.. despite having the same components and overall part number.
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TechnicallyReal
Well-Known Member
For those of you without trim removal tools.. this might help you:
Hardy12000
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Dang. I didnt rely care about the little xl screen, but now I do. This one isn't really doable for me.
T Bone
Well-Known Member
i thought that the tm option was available on all the fx4 trucks, do some research it may just workDang. I didnt rely care about the little xl screen, but now I do. This one isn't really doable for me.
Hardy12000
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I guess i wasn't aware they made the fx4 in an xl flavor
TechnicallyReal
Well-Known Member
There are some photos of it working on the XL screen earlier in the thread
Hardy12000
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Not gonna lie...There are some photos of it working on the XL screen earlier in the thread
...I skipped some pages
TechnicallyReal
Well-Known Member
I don't blame you. I wish most of these threads had an updated first-post or wiki or something.
Hardy12000
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They upgrade the cluster on that. So without a screen upgrade im SOL. No big deal I guess
cfhgarza
Well-Known Member
Can anyone confirm this for me. I thought before the TM upgrade that if auto stop/start was disabled by button an icon popped up in the bottom right of the display say it was off. I don't see that icon when the vehicle is in drive anymore. The only time it's on is when the truck is in park.
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