8492 - 2019 Ranger - Trailer Brake Controller Availability

Jerry Caldwell

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Hello all, just joined and have 560 miles on my Ranger. Jerry, being close by in weatherford, i was wondering who installed your controller? Figured I'd use the same dealer....
I did the install. If you have some mechanical aptitude it is not hard, just quite a few trim panels to pull. I actually broke one of the retention tabs off of my sill trim (ordered a new trim piece) on our new truck. Didn’t have that issue on the first one. Plan on it taking several hours.
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That's my only issue is all the trim panels. Makes the job so much longer. I am gonna do mine myself also, so I know it will take extra time as I will go real slow with the panels.
 

rangermike

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I agree with the point about going OEM for the TBC -- now that they have a solution. I installed the RedArc last year since Ford didn't seem to realize that people would want to use their truck to actually tow something... :crazy:

Now I'm debating about whether to replace it with the Ford RedArc that is fully integrated with the safety electronics. I'm curious to hear how the new setup is working for people.
 

Jerry Caldwell

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I agree with the point about going OEM for the TBC -- now that they have a solution. I installed the RedArc last year since Ford didn't seem to realize that people would want to use their truck to actually tow something... :crazy:

Now I'm debating about whether to replace it with the Ford RedArc that is fully integrated with the safety electronics. I'm curious to hear how the new setup is working for people.
I went through that same process of installing and using a Redarc Tow Pro Elite for a few months before installing the Ford/Redarc. The original unit worked well, but would not apply brakes if you had an emergency braking situation or if some light brakes needed to be applied using adaptive cruise. The new OEM setup works perfectly and I have verified that it works with adaptive cruise as well.
 

rangermike

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Yes, that's part of the consideration. I turn adaptive cruise off when I tow. I know there is a risk that the trailer brakes won't engage in emergency braking (until I press the pedal). Fortunately we only tow 1500 pounds so I'm not too worried about the trailer fighting the truck braking.
 


dmeyer302

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Now I'm debating about whether to replace it with the Ford RedArc that is fully integrated with the safety electronics. I'm curious to hear how the new setup is working for people.
You guys continue to make way too much about this "factory" controller. It's. A. Redarc. Hooked up like this. All that ECU is doing is providing circuit isolation/offloading, which really isn't necessary for this application as the CHMSL feed has 1.5A available capacity. IF you want to be extra careful, put a diode in there to prevent any backfeeding to the factory bits:

Ye/Gy wire under dash ----- diode ->|- ------ red Redarc wire (brake signal)

I've had mine hooked up like this for months. Works perfectly, and it works with all the gadgets.

More reading straight from the source.
 

DrSafety

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IF you want to be extra careful, put a diode in there to prevent any backfeeding to the factory bits:

Ye/Gy wire under dash ----- diode ->|- ------ red Redarc wire (brake signal)

I've had mine hooked up like this for months. Works perfectly, and it works with all the gadgets.
I have a Prodigy 3 brake controller installed to the 4 wires under the dash with full knowledge that the AEB won't activate the trailer brakes (no adaptive cruise control).
If I want to change the brake activation to the stop lights, I am curious how you hooked Ye/Gy wire under the dash - t-splice? If you used a diode which one did you use?
 

dmeyer302

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I have a Prodigy 3 brake controller installed to the 4 wires under the dash with full knowledge that the AEB won't activate the trailer brakes (no adaptive cruise control).
If I want to change the brake activation to the stop lights, I am curious how you hooked Ye/Gy wire under the dash - t-splice? If you used a diode which one did you use?
I soldered my connections. Phil doesn’t like solder and recommends good quality butt splices. Either are fine in my opinion. I used this diode; if you’re not comfortable soldering, you’ll need to find a different, crimpable solution (I don’t have a recommendation for that).
 

kieefer

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With the trailer package the wiring for a brake controller is under the dash and I used a Tekonsha Voyager $99.
Easy install.
 
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RudiProtrudi

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So I attempted the install of the Ford TBC, and now the CHMSL doesn't work. Any idea where this could have gone wrong? At first I was thinking that I got the pins in the wrong holes on the connectors up by the CHMSL, but I triple checked them and they're correct. My Ranger had the black connectors.
 

gbritt89

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So I attempted the install of the Ford TBC, and now the CHMSL doesn't work. Any idea where this could have gone wrong? At first I was thinking that I got the pins in the wrong holes on the connectors up by the CHMSL, but I triple checked them and they're correct. My Ranger had the black connectors.
Are you 100% certain you put the wires in not only in the correct order for the black connector as the instructions show and got the audible click out of each when they locked into place?

Second to that I would check power, imagine you could easily just have a blown fuse.

Ground wire contact good? > checked all connections are set?

Hope this helps

ETA, not much room for those that didn't run their own wires. Could easily just be a loose connection. Did you make solid crimp and solder connections?
 

Edsel

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At first I was thinking that I got the pins in the wrong holes on the connectors up by the CHMSL, but I triple checked them and they're correct.
My guess is that one of the connectors is not seated. On one of mine, I never could get it to 'snap in' with an 'audible click' so I forced it in deep with a pair of needle-nose pliers until it made contact.
 

RudiProtrudi

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My guess is that one of the connectors is not seated. On one of mine, I never could get it to 'snap in' with an 'audible click' so I forced it in deep with a pair of needle-nose pliers until it made contact.
You hit the nail on the head. One pin just wasn't all the way in. Everything working now. Thank you very much!
 

BeachRanger19

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I promised to post my results with the Curt Echo brake controller when I set it up and used it.
I took delivery of a new 2020 travel trailer today and when I hooked up the Echo controller it worked exactly as Curt said it would.
My sequence was get the tongue, chains and pull away hooked up then with the truck in park running plug the trailer into the controller and then plug the trailer/controller into the 7pin on the truck.
It took about a minute to pair the phone and controller and set the profile for this trailer. Once plugged in the truck recognized it, then automatically turned on the trailer side traffic warning system and went to trailer profile "A" that I programmed the night before.
I only towed 80mi home and didn't get a chance to fine tune it yet but it definitely works well.
I have my old Galaxy Note 5 with no SIM card, wi-fi off as my dedicated Echo app interface so calls, texts, emails etc. don't cause any issues with the Bluetooth connection.
I'm still not sure why some of you had problems with the Echo because it was the easiest brake controller I ever used.
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dmeyer302

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I have my old Galaxy Note 5 with no SIM card, wi-fi off as my dedicated Echo app interface so calls, texts, emails etc. don't cause any issues with the Bluetooth connection.
Bluetooth is just for setup and adjustment, and is not required for continued operation. Right? I think a lot of guys are scared of this unit because Bluetooth doesn't have a very reliable reputation, but once you get it set up, it's really not that much of a concern.
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