8492 - 2019 Ranger - Trailer Brake Controller Availability

[Joem]

I decided to try the Curt Echo bluetooth for my brake controller. Another had said it didn't work for them but my research in multiple forums has lead me to the conclusion it is worth a try due to being proportional and no wiring necessary.
Even though it does not interface with the EBS I never had EBS before and in 46 yrs of driving I have never run a pedestrian down or rear ended another vehicle so the chance of it kicking in before me deciding to brake is pretty low vs the amount of time spent doing normal trailering stops and the increased costs of the Ford option.
E trailer is shipping on Monday and I will post my experience after I have programmed it, played with it and see how it worked for me.
Stay safe fellow Ranger fans!

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[Joem]

I hope you have a better experience with the Curt Echo than I did. Granted, easy hook up and programming. My issue was that it would hook up fine, start out on a trip with visibility on the app on my phone that the brakes were being applied when I applied the truck brake BUT it often would give a message that Bluetooth connection failed and when that happened you lose the visibility of the trailer brakes being applied from the app on the phone.
According to Curt who I contacted they said it holds the last setting even with a lost BT connection. I Bought it in Feb 2019 when I bought the truck and at that time Ford did not offer a Ford approved brake controller. When I discovered this past Feb that Ford did have a controller that keeps all the factory settings and emergency braking I jumped in for peace of mind. I now have the instructions that my dealer did not provide so next week will be my first trip with the Ford/ Redarc controller.

 

[BeachRanger19]

I hope you have a better experience with the Curt Echo than I did. Granted, easy hook up and programming. My issue was that it would hook up fine, start out on a trip with visibility on the app on my phone that the brakes were being applied when I applied the truck brake BUT it often would give a message that Bluetooth connection failed and when that happened you lose the visibility of the trailer brakes being applied from the app on the phone.
According to Curt who I contacted they said it holds the last setting even with a lost BT connection. I Bought it in Feb 2019 when I bought the truck and at that time Ford did not offer a Ford approved brake controller. When I discovered this past Feb that Ford did have a controller that keeps all the factory settings and emergency braking I jumped in for peace of mind. I now have the instructions that my dealer did not provide so next week will be my first trip with the Ford/ Redarc controller.

I also found out from Curt that once you have it set up it does not need to have the app open or be connected except for manual control of the trailer brakes in a sway situation which is preferred by me.
I'm connecting to a dedicated Galaxy Note 5 (last smart phone) so no calls messages or anything else interferes with the controller also leaving my Galaxy S10+ connected to the truck via Android Auto.
I'm hoping this set up does the trick even with the stupid Ford to trailer connection sequence to get the power on.
So far it appears that if you plug the trailer in to the echo first then do the ford routine and plug the echo/trailer combo in last it all works normally.
I'm going to try it, hope for the best and see what happens.
Wish me luck?

 

[aslusers]

Just got back from Ford Dealership. They installed Ford Trailer Brake Controller ($339 + labor $79). Only thing is that I need to read the manual. I asked them to install it on The center console instead of drivers left side under the steering wheel. They didnt. So, I guess, now is good time for me to learn how to remove the center and drill a hole there then put it there. Is there any good YouTube video of removing the center console cover between driver and passenger?

 

[P. A. Schilke]

Just got back from Ford Dealership. They installed Ford Trailer Brake Controller ($339 + labor $79). Only thing is that I need to read the manual. I asked them to install it on The center console instead of drivers left side under the steering wheel. They didnt. So, I guess, now is good time for me to learn how to remove the center and drill a hole there then put it there. Is there any good YouTube video of removing the center console cover between driver and passenger?

Hi David,

You do not need a video...just use plastic trim tools...Amazon or Auto Parts Store?) It pops right off...Start at the trans select lever and work your way down one side and then the other....Do not worry about the pop sound when the retention clips release. Pretty simple. In the Onwer's manual there is an explanation of how to put the trans selector in neutral...follow similar guidelines for the trim cover..... You will be surprised how easy it is .... My recommendation is to not use metal tools...

Good Luck
Phil Schilke
Ranger Vehicle Engineering
Ford Motor Co. Retired

 

[RickyDean]

I also found out from Curt that once you have it set up it does not need to have the app open or be connected except for manual control of the trailer brakes in a sway situation which is preferred by me.
I'm connecting to a dedicated Galaxy Note 5 (last smart phone) so no calls messages or anything else interferes with the controller also leaving my Galaxy S10+ connected to the truck via Android Auto.
I'm hoping this set up does the trick even with the stupid Ford to trailer connection sequence to get the power on.
So far it appears that if you plug the trailer in to the echo first then do the ford routine and plug the echo/trailer combo in last it all works normally.
I'm going to try it, hope for the best and see what happens.
Wish me luck?

Hey Beachranger, Please let us know how you make out with the Echo brake controller. It was a total failure for me but I kind of suspect that the controller they sent was part of the problem. They sent me two different controllers because the first one failed to work properly - although it did work for a short while - and was later found to be the wrong part number for the Ranger. The second one gave me all kinds of problems and eventually burned up (literally)and I think they just didn’t want to try a third controller for me. Anyway, if it will work for you it’s comparitively cheap and real easy to hook up, and you don’t have to cut up the inside of your truck for installation. Good luck, and keep us posted.

 

[BeachRanger19]

Hey Beachranger, Please let us know how you make out with the Echo brake controller. It was a total failure for me but I kind of suspect that the controller they sent was part of the problem. They sent me two different controllers because the first one failed to work properly - although it did work for a short while - and was later found to be the wrong part number for the Ranger. The second one gave me all kinds of problems and eventually burned up (literally)and I think they just didn’t want to try a third controller for me. Anyway, if it will work for you it’s comparitively cheap and real easy to hook up, and you don’t have to cut up the inside of your truck for installation. Good luck, and keep us posted.

I kinda wish I had heard your experience before I tried but I have a couple of things that may work in my favor including the fact that my trailer is brand new and has led lighting just like my Lariat.
And the fact that Curt has been getting feedback from 2018+ F-150 owners as well as 2019 Ranger owners (tow package system & wiring is the same) and have made some software changes and now have a recommend connecting sequence.
And it seems that those who ran a constant hot from the battery to the 7pin have no problems at all which is what I will try if the first way doesn't work.
That will be pretty easy for me because Leer is running a constant hot to the back of my new 100R shell so I only have to jump the constant from below the left taillight to the 7pin.
Keeping my fingers crossed ?
Hoping to be a lucky ?

 

[RickyDean]

I kinda wish I had heard your experience before I tried but I have a couple of things that may work in my favor including the fact that my trailer is brand new and has led lighting just like my Lariat.
And the fact that Curt has been getting feedback from 2018+ F-150 owners as well as 2019 Ranger owners (tow package system & wiring is the same) and have made some software changes and now have a recommend connecting sequence.
And it seems that those who ran a constant hot from the battery to the 7pin have no problems at all which is what I will try if the first way doesn't work.
That will be pretty easy for me because Leer is running a constant hot to the back of my new 100R shell so I only have to jump the constant from below the left taillight to the 7pin.
Keeping my fingers crossed ?
Hoping to be a lucky ?

If you’re towing a utility or flatbed type trailer that may work fine but if you’re towing a travel trailer with bigger 12volt batteries the wiring from the Leer cap may not be heavy enough. The charge wire from your 7 pin connector is factory protected with a 30 amp fuse which would be necessary if you’re charging up your “coach” batteries in your travel trailer. Just a WAG but seems like your Leer cap may only need light weight wiring and a 10 amp fuse (for a light inside the cap). Your constant hot to the 7 pin theory sounds good as that would circumvent the lack of resistance issue that I had.

 

[VAMike]

If you’re towing a utility or flatbed type trailer that may work fine but if you’re towing a travel trailer with bigger 12volt batteries the wiring from the Leer cap may not be heavy enough. The charge wire from your 7 pin connector is factory protected with a 30 amp fuse which would be necessary if you’re charging up your “coach” batteries in your travel trailer. Just a WAG but seems like your Leer cap may only need light weight wiring and a 10 amp fuse (for a light inside the cap). Your constant hot to the 7 pin theory sounds good as that would circumvent the lack of resistance issue that I had.

Forget potential charging current, the real issue is that the braking current is coming from the aux pin...you do not want that to be a light duty connection and you really don't want it to blow a fuse.

 

[Jerry Caldwell]

Just finished installing the Ford/Redarc controller for the second time. We totaled our first Ranger about three weeks ago so I had to do it all over again. It went a lot quicker this time.

I highly recommend going with the OEM kit. I see no reason to have a controller that is not compatible with AEB and the adaptive cruise systems, even if you think it is redundant.

 

[P. A. Schilke]

Just finished installing the Ford/Redarc controller for the second time. We totaled our first Ranger about three weeks ago so I had to do it all over again. It went a lot quicker this time.

I highly recommend going with the OEM kit. I see no reason to have a controller that is not compatible with AEB and the adaptive cruise systems, even if you think it is redundant.

Hi Jerry,

Your point is very well stated... If Ford offers a controller that is compatible, made by Redarc, It makes good sense to install this controller. Hope your post will be of significant influence on Forum members. Well Stated!

Best,
Phil Schilke
Ranger Vehicle Engineering
Ford Motor Co. Retired

 

[Snorebaby]

I am purchasing the Ford/Redarc TBC and I will do the install. Some things I just don't trust the dealership to do.

I always try to get the OEM accessories if I can. I don't really like to splice into wiring with the aftermarket accessories unless I absolutely have to. I usually make a plug and play pigtail to connect aftermarket accessories. Just in case I need to go back to stock, all I have to do is disconnect the pigtail. I am not going to butt splice the wires in the controller. I have connectors that I will use just in case I need to replace the unit for any reason.

As @P. A. Schilke would say - Here is the backstory.....
I have a good friend that was an Electrical Engineer/Inventor (he passed away June 2019). When I bought my first Goldwing, a 1985 GL1200 LTD I purchased in 2006, it had accessories that were added. Come to find out after getting it home, some other accessories had been removed but the wiring was still hooked up. All they did was cut the wires to remove the accessory. So I called my friend. He had been riding and working on 'Wings since the mid 1980's. He "showed me the way" to properly install accessories using factory style connectors and making pigtails. He also threatened to (and I quote) "break my fingers if he ever caught me hacking into any wiring". And I do believe he would come back and haunt me if I did it!

It is a little more time consuming to do it that way. But when it comes to troubleshooting, it makes it soooo much easier when you can just unplug an accessory and take it back to stock. It also make it easier for the next owner if he wants to take it back to stock or troubleshoot a problem.

Back to the topic......

I wouldn't worry about a TBC if I didn't have my 6x12 enclosed trailer. It is a dual axle that mainly hauls my 2015 'Wing on long trips because of limited time to travel. It is 1800lb by itself before putting in my 900lb 'Wing. I have hauled it across town just to see how the Ranger would react without a TBC and it did very well and I have no problem if I were use it to haul around town. But you can tell the difference loaded and empty without the TBC. The wife's F-150 has a TBC and it has come in handy for heavy braking while loaded. If we take the Ranger on a trip, I would need the TBC.

With my brother's 6x12 single axle open trailer, it doesn't require a TBC and the Ranger barely knows it's hooked up. Just a little push when braking with his 2010 'Wing on it.

Sorry for the long post and getting a little off topic in the middle.

 

[BeachRanger19]

Hey Beachranger, Please let us know how you make out with the Echo brake controller. It was a total failure for me but I kind of suspect that the controller they sent was part of the problem. They sent me two different controllers because the first one failed to work properly - although it did work for a short while - and was later found to be the wrong part number for the Ranger. The second one gave me all kinds of problems and eventually burned up (literally)and I think they just didn’t want to try a third controller for me. Anyway, if it will work for you it’s comparitively cheap and real easy to hook up, and you don’t have to cut up the inside of your truck for installation. Good luck, and keep us posted.

Roger that will post the results and how I got there.

 

[Nellieg]

I am purchasing the Ford/Redarc TBC and I will do the install. Some things I just don't trust the dealership to do.

I always try to get the OEM accessories if I can. I don't really like to splice into wiring with the aftermarket accessories unless I absolutely have to. I usually make a plug and play pigtail to connect aftermarket accessories. Just in case I need to go back to stock, all I have to do is disconnect the pigtail. I am not going to butt splice the wires in the controller. I have connectors that I will use just in case I need to replace the unit for any reason.

As @P. A. Schilke would say - Here is the backstory.....
I have a good friend that was an Electrical Engineer/Inventor (he passed away June 2019). When I bought my first Goldwing, a 1985 GL1200 LTD I purchased in 2006, it had accessories that were added. Come to find out after getting it home, some other accessories had been removed but the wiring was still hooked up. All they did was cut the wires to remove the accessory. So I called my friend. He had been riding and working on 'Wings since the mid 1980's. He "showed me the way" to properly install accessories using factory style connectors and making pigtails. He also threatened to (and I quote) "break my fingers if he ever caught me hacking into any wiring". And I do believe he would come back and haunt me if I did it!

It is a little more time consuming to do it that way. But when it comes to troubleshooting, it makes it soooo much easier when you can just unplug an accessory and take it back to stock. It also make it easier for the next owner if he wants to take it back to stock or troubleshoot a problem.

Back to the topic......

I wouldn't worry about a TBC if I didn't have my 6x12 enclosed trailer. It is a dual axle that mainly hauls my 2015 'Wing on long trips because of limited time to travel. It is 1800lb by itself before putting in my 900lb 'Wing. I have hauled it across town just to see how the Ranger would react without a TBC and it did very well and I have no problem if I were use it to haul around town. But you can tell the difference loaded and empty without the TBC. The wife's F-150 has a TBC and it has come in handy for heavy braking while loaded. If we take the Ranger on a trip, I would need the TBC.

With my brother's 6x12 single axle open trailer, it doesn't require a TBC and the Ranger barely knows it's hooked up. Just a little push when braking with his 2010 'Wing on it.

Sorry for the long post and getting a little off topic in the middle.

Unfortunately in some states a brake controller is not optional and you would have a ticket if pulled over given on the characteristics of what you are towing

 

[Tito]

Just finished installing the Ford/Redarc controller for the second time. We totaled our first Ranger about three weeks ago so I had to do it all over again. It went a lot quicker this time.

I highly recommend going with the OEM kit. I see no reason to have a controller that is not compatible with AEB and the adaptive cruise systems, even if you think it is redundant.

Hello all, just joined and have 560 miles on my Ranger. Jerry, being close by in weatherford, i was wondering who installed your controller? Figured I'd use the same dealer....

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