What did you do to your Ranger today?

[Muscleford]

How many miles on your truck Mike?

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[Cmar]

Since it's the #4 cylinder, access is pretty limited, getting a drill, tap and heli-coil in there would be very difficult with cluttered clearance from above. No rust on the plug or in the hole, mine has an engine cover, so it wasn't rust. The galvanic response between the steel and aluminum is the culprit, so anti-seize would definitely help in any future spark plug changes. I asked the advisor if they were going to install a heli-coil, and he said "a what?".....and he had never heard of ARP bolts, but he's just an advisor, so.

It sounds like they will extract the plug, put in a heli-coil and reinstall the head. This really makes me want to pull any spark plugs in aluminum heads, apply some anti-seize and re-install, just to put some of the advantage on my side if they ever needed to be changed.

I always put anti size on any spark plugs I remove, there are some fancy non-metallic ones now for alloy heads, which still allow for correct grounding, in the old days with iron heads I just used copper grease. Alloy heads are always a worry but I thought the plating they put on spark plug threads these days was supposed to stop them sticking.

 

[9zero1790]

Installed seat covers from seat cover unlimited. I like them tell me what you think

looks like they fit snugly. most of the seat covers ive seen are kinda loose and floppy.

 

[Rinn69]

How many miles on your truck Mike?

33K. It had a couple misfires, but as long as I kept it below 3000-3500 RPM's, it was ok.

 

[Superspirit]

looks like they fit snugly. most of the seat covers ive seen are kinda loose and floppy.

They are snug everywhere but the center of the backs are puffy, they claim they will conform over time. Other than that they fit great.

 

[bsr956]

Doesn't really go here, but it's too good to not share.

 

[Doc]

My arms may be as long as a gorillas, but not as strong
Sooo, 3 techs tried to get it (#4 cylinder....way in the back) out without breaking/stripping it, but no luck. The service advisor gave me 2 options: 1--Give 'er hell and hope it comes out. 2--Remove the head, extract the plug, then fix and replace it. If give 'er hell didn't work, they'ed need to remove the head anyway.
So, they gave 'er hell and it stripped. Now, they're ordering new gaskets, head bolts, parts, etc, but some are 1-2 weeks out. Most expensive spark plug change ever !!! ~$2400.00
Shit Happens.......

Jeezus !

 

[DukeCanBuildit]

Hit 69,000 miles.

 

[fjwlobo]

My arms may be as long as a gorillas, but not as strong
Sooo, 3 techs tried to get it (#4 cylinder....way in the back) out without breaking/stripping it, but no luck. The service advisor gave me 2 options: 1--Give 'er hell and hope it comes out. 2--Remove the head, extract the plug, then fix and replace it. If give 'er hell didn't work, they'ed need to remove the head anyway.
So, they gave 'er hell and it stripped. Now, they're ordering new gaskets, head bolts, parts, etc, but some are 1-2 weeks out. Most expensive spark plug change ever !!! ~$2400.00
Shit Happens.......

Anyone who knows anything about dissimilar metals, add water, and just one more way Ford screws you.

They know this is a problem and more than likely (on purpose) don't put antisieze on the spark plugs just so they can get more money from you when this happens.

I've said it before and I'll say it again.

Ford knows full well what the life expentacy is for various parts purchased from the cheapest vendor and rolls the thinking that the truck will be out of warranty before something happens and they have to repair it or they have to recall it.

 

[RedDakooter05]

Finally gave it an actual wash and scratch inducing scrub after 7 months.

 

[OrangeStreak]

Really, I've never seen that happen before, break the porcelain yes, strip the thread yes, but break through the body of the plug no. Wow you must have arms like a lowland gorilla. That must have been really stuck.

 

[Northwet Neil]

Finally got the Ford Calibration Performance upgrade installed and am happy so far. Will be towing a heavy trailer, moving next week, so will share my my reaction then. Looking forward to it. Not the move so much but the performance should be noticable.

 

[HeatXfer]

My arms may be as long as a gorillas, but not as strong
Sooo, 3 techs tried to get it (#4 cylinder....way in the back) out without breaking/stripping it, but no luck. The service advisor gave me 2 options: 1--Give 'er hell and hope it comes out. 2--Remove the head, extract the plug, then fix and replace it. If give 'er hell didn't work, they'ed need to remove the head anyway.
So, they gave 'er hell and it stripped. Now, they're ordering new gaskets, head bolts, parts, etc, but some are 1-2 weeks out. Most expensive spark plug change ever !!! ~$2400.00
Shit Happens.......

If you can get the head hot, the spark plug hole will just slightly enlarge and you might be able to get it out with an extractor. I'm anticipating the comments: Yes, the hole will get bigger, not smaller.

And in the future, just a dot of copper anti-seize on the upper half of the plug threads will help prevent this from happening again.

 

[VoodooRanger]

Last weekend I installed a WeBoost Overland Cell Booster. Mounted the antenna without the mast on the passenger side rear of the Prinsu Rack. Cable was sent down between the cab/bed, and enters into the cabin via a grommet on the lower half of the cabin. The main unit was placed under the passenger seat, and interior antenna was ran through the dash tray, and behind the dash to the center console. Took a quick trip into Big Cypress Preserve and the unit was able to pull one, and sometimes up to two additional bars of service.

 

[HeatXfer]

I Installed a Mishimoto catch can today with 34k miles on the engine (it was hard enough putting it on, I hope I don't have to take it off), wondering if I should have gotten a UPR. I don't know how often I'm running boost, but after reading about the 'clean side' CC installs there doesn't appear to be much, if any, moisture/oil/other accumulation from the valve/cam cover.

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