UPDATE ON 2019 FORD RANGER STEP BUMPER TRAILER BALL PROBLEM

[Snorebaby]

I want to see pics of that "high in the sky " trailer once you have it hooked up. I had to get an 8" drop receiver for my utility trailer.

The top of the ball will be at least 26" off the ground. To use this setup he might have a special made trailer that has the tongue height needed. I would like to see a pic of the utility trailer as I have not seen one like what would be needed.

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[HenryMac]

The top of the ball will be at least 26" off the ground. To use this setup he might have a special made trailer that has the tongue height needed. I would like to see a pic of the utility trailer as I have not seen one like what would be needed.

Not sure about the Cross Bronx Expressway in NYC... but lot's of 4x4 rigs that crawl around in the mountains out here have high ground clearance trailers like these....

 

[levimac`]

Well well another Hm. First time I ever heard the manufacturers put a bumper on their trucks rated for towing light weights that a trailer ball
shank will not go in from the top and they do have different shank lengths and sizes as well.
Ditto to what everyone else says.

 

[JimG_AZ]

Well well another Hm. First time I ever heard the manufacturers put a bumper on their trucks rated for towing light weights that a trailer ball
shank will not go in from the top and they do have different shank lengths and sizes as well.
Ditto to what everyone else says.

I think it is because he is using a 1-7/8" ball. If he was using a 2", he would probably have little trouble finding one with a long enough shank.

 

[JimG_AZ]

Where were you all when I was struggling with this problem of using what I paid for when I bought this truck.

I shouldn't have to shell out another $150.00 for a hitch replacement. Didn't have this problem with a '91 S-10 that I put 350,000 miles on with a step bumper and the same setup and ran the tires off of it and sent it to the junk yard..

The dealership could not help me and when you call FORD CUSTOMER SERVICE they tell me to go to a local trailer outfit for the answer, that they didn't have an answer.

The problem is the type of ball you are pushed into using with this bolt that has to come up from the bottom that recesses itself inside of this collar they have welded on the bottom. That bolt is born to fall out and does.

That metal collar they welded on the bottom of this hitch will not let you run the lock washer and nut up into it for the length of shank that's on an off the shelf ball.

So how many times am I going to use this to tow this single axel; 12' long lawnmower trailer that will only be carrying a lawnmower when I take it to a repair shop (which is never) or take brush from the yard to the dump....maybe twice in a year.

So my choice because of FORD'S ENGINEERING to use what I paid for....a trailer ball I don't trust because of a bad experience of having a bolt fall out of this style of ball on the Cross Bronx Expressway in NYC years ago (my breaker chains are the only things that saved us on that one) or coming up with what I have.

My truck; my problem and until I have definite reason to change it I'm using it.

I have to say that I am at a loss for words after reading this. So, if you hitch ball contraption fails, is if Ford's fault or your fault?

 

[levimac`]

I think it is because he is using a 1-7/8" ball. If he was using a 2", he would probably have little trouble finding one with a long enough shank.

Hard to tell, most of us are strangers to one another and anyway ect...

 

[weasel1]

Saw this today. Seemed appropriate for here.

 

[weasel1]

I posted the above tongue in cheek, but in all seriousness to the op, your setup isn't safe. If I were using the trailer around the property, I would use your solution without hesitation. On the highway? Not a chance. You found a solution, but you need to find a better one.

 

[EcoRanger]

The height of the Ranger bumper is way to high to tow anything buy Curt hitch 13417 and solve your safety and towing problems.

 

[EcoRanger]

So my choice because of FORD'S ENGINEERING to use what I paid for....a trailer ball I don't trust because of a bad experience of having a bolt fall out of this style of ball on the Cross Bronx Expressway in NYC years ago (my breaker chains are the only things that saved us on that one) or coming up with what I have.

My truck; my problem and until I have definite reason to change it I'm using it.

So why did you bother to post this if you didn't want our advice on your unsafe set up.

 

[P. A. Schilke]

So why did you bother to post this if you didn't want our advice on your unsafe set up.

Hi Doc,

He posted because he thought he had the "elegant solution", but was not able to accept others did not see it the same way. My take is the if anything dire happens, (which I pray will not happen) we forum members did the right thing...This is not about "I like chrome", I like Black Out. I like Sabre,, I like Oxford White and so on...This is about safety and not his but for those around him on the road that he may harm by his foolishness. On his own property...go for it. On public roads...hope if something goes wrong he has a good attorney...

Okay... another back story...Way back on the F150 when we had twin I beam suspension. We had a legal area supporting the lawsuits we faced. One of these engineers that knew me came to me to assess a lawsuit where a poor lady was killed in her F150 as she impacted a bridge abutment. The postmortem on the vehicle was the the right front I beam fractured and caused the crash. So I did a fracture analysis of the I beam and it was a Monotonic yield...in other words...it was a Pop of the axle as a single blow. Not a cyclic yield. So We calculated what it would take to make this happen as the plaintiff lawyers said she it a pot hole. Our analysis showed that the vehicle would have to have been dropped from a 11 story building onto concrete. What really happened...she was driving home drunk from a bar after 2am and fell asleep at the wheel. Sad occurrence, but not Ford's fault.

I really hated to take on these type of assignments , but when the analysis shows the Ford design was not at fault, the I did my job. I could not be there to stop this lady from having "one for the road"....

My take is that the bumper was lightened and it was discovered that the trailer attachment cracked around the trailer ball attachment. This a reinforcement

So here is what I would suggest. Take the truck to the dealer and tell them I need a 1 7/8" ball on my truck. FIX IT! If the dealer cannot do this and Ford Service can not suggest a way to address the concern. Take the vehicle back to the dealer and find another manufacturer that address the issue..

Sorry...I cannot be sympathetic to someone that cannot take responsibility for their own actions.

I retreat to my flameproof bunker and await the firestorm...

Best,
Phil Schilke
Ranger Vehicle Engineering
Ford Motor Co. Retire

 

[Texasota]

I retreat to my flameproof bunker and await the firestorm...

Best,
Phil Schilke
Ranger Vehicle Engineering
Ford Motor Co. Retire

There is not going to be a firestorm, Phil, because your summarization of this thread is exactly right and the overwhelming majority of members following this thread know that.

 

[jsphlynch]

So my choice because of FORD'S ENGINEERING to use what I paid for....

In economic terms, this is referred to as a sunk cost. Emotionally, we humans have a really hard time abandoning something we've invested time and/or money in, no matter how poorly that something actually works for us. Regardless of whether the blame lies in Ford's engineering, the poor advice of your friend, or something else entirely, the basic fact here is that the "solution" you've arrived at is not something you should rely on.

If you can get around the emotional attachment to your solution, than you can get a Curt/Draw-tite receiver and a drop hitch as a $150 modification to your $30k truck, and take your trailer on the highway with confidence.

Where were you all when I was struggling with this problem of using what I paid for when I bought this truck.

They were over on your other thread discussing the problem, but for some reason you decided not to further participate in the discussion.

 

[HenryMac]

If you can get around the emotional attachment to your solution, than you can get a Curt/Draw-tite receiver and a drop hitch as a $150 modification to your $30k truck, and take your trailer on the highway with confidence.

All he needs to do is remove the threaded rod / hex nuts and use a Grade 8 Hex Head Cap Screw. That will exceed the capacity of the bumper hitch, which should be plenty for a lawn tractor on a small trailer (see below).

But your point is on the mark if he wants to tow more capacity than the bumper hitch can handle.

 

[Greg H]

A couple of weeks ago I posted that I have a 2019 FORD RANGER XL and having a problem with having a long enough shank to mount a 1-7/8" trailer ball on their stock step bumper and couldn't get any answer from the dealership or from FORD as to what they were thinking and how to solve it.
Well with the help of my good hot rod friend of mine in Niagara Falls Canada we put together a solution and I think it is going to work.
I am submitting this with a link to pictures which you may have to copy and GOOGLE it to get it to work.
Again this is just what I did and you may have something far better but have at it, because there's not many answers out there.
Hope this helps.

STEP 1​

FROM ETRAILER.COM

​

STEP 1 ORDER THIS

1-7/8” Hitch Ball with Internal Thread – ¾” Diameter x 2” Long Shank – Chrome – 2K





Code: EI1C-C

Retail:$24.99

Our Price: $12.23





Chrome-plated 1-7/8” hitch ball with internal thread. Included bolt has a ¾” diameter x 2” long shank. Provides a connection point for your trailer’s coupler.

Bottom of Form

​

STEP 2 ORDER THIS FROM:


MCMASTER-CARR

Line Product Ordered Delivers Price Total

1 8491A593 Press-Fit Drill Bushing, 0.75" ID, 1" OD, 1-1/2"

Long

2 (I ALWAYS ORDER 2 OF ANYTHING JUST IN CASE OF FAILURE OR DAMAGE)

each

Mar 10 12.90 each

25.80

Merchandise $25.80​

STEP 3 GO TO:



TRACTOR SUPPLY

BUY 1 PIECE OF ¾” X 12” Of ALL THREAD AND CUT OFF TO 7”

USING RED LOCKTITE RUN THE BALL UP ON THE ALL THREAD AND TIGHTEN DOWN IN A VICE.

DRILL A HOLE IN THE END OF THE ALL THREAD FOR A COTTER PIN TO KEEP THE JAM NUTS FROM BACKING OFF.

ONCE THE BALL IS SECURE WITH RED LOCKTITE ON THE TOP OF THE ALL THREAD USE BLUE LOCKTITE FOR THE REST OF THE INSTALLATION.


USING A 2 LARGE FLAT WASHERS ON THE TOP OF THE BUMPER TO REST THE BALL ON; AND THEN USE 1 OF THE 2/ DRILL BUSINGS FROM MCMASTER CARR; AND THEN 1 FLAT WASHER AND 1 LOCK WASHER; RUN UP 2 / ¾” NUTS AND TIGHTEN DOWN TO EXPOSE THE HOLE FOR THE COTTER PIN.

INSTALL THE COTTER PIN AND BEND.

THE FINISHED PICTURES:


https://1drv.ms/u/s!Apxgwvpdu1jNh7ZlhtrvLD8KFlPVmg?e=DhpbJb

New here and just wanting to help- Curt makes a 2in ball- the most common to include U-Haul equipment. The bumper tow set up for this truckl rates tonge weight at 350 lbs, tow capacity 7500. I found a Curt brand ball, paret

A couple of weeks ago I posted that I have a 2019 FORD RANGER XL and having a problem with having a long enough shank to mount a 1-7/8" trailer ball on their stock step bumper and couldn't get any answer from the dealership or from FORD as to what they were thinking and how to solve it.
Well with the help of my good hot rod friend of mine in Niagara Falls Canada we put together a solution and I think it is going to work.
I am submitting this with a link to pictures which you may have to copy and GOOGLE it to get it to work.
Again this is just what I did and you may have something far better but have at it, because there's not many answers out there.
Hope this helps.

STEP 1​

FROM ETRAILER.COM

​

STEP 1 ORDER THIS

1-7/8” Hitch Ball with Internal Thread – ¾” Diameter x 2” Long Shank – Chrome – 2K





Code: EI1C-C

Retail:$24.99

Our Price: $12.23





Chrome-plated 1-7/8” hitch ball with internal thread. Included bolt has a ¾” diameter x 2” long shank. Provides a connection point for your trailer’s coupler.

Bottom of Form

​

STEP 2 ORDER THIS FROM:


MCMASTER-CARR

Line Product Ordered Delivers Price Total

1 8491A593 Press-Fit Drill Bushing, 0.75" ID, 1" OD, 1-1/2"

Long

2 (I ALWAYS ORDER 2 OF ANYTHING JUST IN CASE OF FAILURE OR DAMAGE)

each

Mar 10 12.90 each

25.80

Merchandise $25.80​

STEP 3 GO TO:



TRACTOR SUPPLY

BUY 1 PIECE OF ¾” X 12” Of ALL THREAD AND CUT OFF TO 7”

USING RED LOCKTITE RUN THE BALL UP ON THE ALL THREAD AND TIGHTEN DOWN IN A VICE.

DRILL A HOLE IN THE END OF THE ALL THREAD FOR A COTTER PIN TO KEEP THE JAM NUTS FROM BACKING OFF.

ONCE THE BALL IS SECURE WITH RED LOCKTITE ON THE TOP OF THE ALL THREAD USE BLUE LOCKTITE FOR THE REST OF THE INSTALLATION.


USING A 2 LARGE FLAT WASHERS ON THE TOP OF THE BUMPER TO REST THE BALL ON; AND THEN USE 1 OF THE 2/ DRILL BUSINGS FROM MCMASTER CARR; AND THEN 1 FLAT WASHER AND 1 LOCK WASHER; RUN UP 2 / ¾” NUTS AND TIGHTEN DOWN TO EXPOSE THE HOLE FOR THE COTTER PIN.

INSTALL THE COTTER PIN AND BEND.

THE FINISHED PICTURES:


https://1drv.ms/u/s!Apxgwvpdu1jNh7ZlhtrvLD8KFlPVmg?e=DhpbJb

New here and just trying to help. I am an auto shop owner, and ran into issue getting a 2 inch ball, which some say is the most common and what U-Haul has on their equipment. The truck, equipped with bumper mount for ball has a tonged rating of 350lb max, tow capacity 7500. Sorry, but I wont be dragging 7500 lbs behind a truck weighing over 6000lbs powered by a 2.3 4 cylinder turbo- that's working that engine too hard- dragging 13,5000lbs around is asking too much. I personally would never exceed 6000 lb, and short hauls only. trans can handle it though. Now for the non subjective part-I found curt sells a 2 inch ball, 1 inch shank, and its 3 inches long, rated for 6000lbs. Fits perfectly, and does not require a cotter key when torqued properly (they say 250 ft lbs). part number 40020. hope this helps. Greg H

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