U-Haul hitch ball with flat washer

[houseOfDogs]

I need to buy a 7500 lb rated 2" hitch ball to switch out a 6000 lb ball on a 4" drop receiver.

I picked up a new horse trailer in Oklahoma, but the 6" drop hitch I brought with was too low for the empty trailer. So, the trailer place sold me a 4" drop receiver to get home with - but they only had a 6000 lb hitch ball to put on the 7500 lb rated receiver - this was fine for the empty 2600 lb trailer.

However, a utility trailer (3500 lb axle) I use needs a much larger drop, so I purchase an adjustable receiver rated for 5000 lbs https://www.amazon.com/dp/B008CE06ZA?psc=1&ref=ppx_yo2ov_dt_b_product_details (no hitch ball included) and now plan to buy a 7500 lb hitch ball to put on the 4" drop receiver, and move the 6000 lb to the adjustable receiver to use with my utility trailer.

I thought if I bought the hitch ball at U-haul, I could pay them to swap the hitch balls - but I think this being CA and liability, nobody is going to do the mount on a receiver I bring in.

But, I see the U-haul uses a flat washer instead of split washer, and has a cotter pin through the bolt for extra safety - see https://www.uhaul.com/MovingSupplies/Hitch-Balls-Mounts/Hitch-Balls/2-Hitch-Balls/?mid=424

Any feedback on the U-haul hitch ball?

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[Frenchy]

As long as the ball is rated at minimum or higher of 7500 you will be fine. Just remember that the receiver has a rating as well. Your max capacity will also he your weakest link. So if the lowest is 6000 then that is your capacity.

 

[houseOfDogs]

As long as the ball is rated at minimum or higher of 7500 you will be fine. Just remember that the receiver has a rating as well. Your max capacity will also he your weakest link. So if the lowest is 6000 then that is your capacity.

I probably didn't make myself clear - I understand all of this in terms of the weakest link.

I'm really interested in any thoughts on the flat washer element vs a split washer, and the use of a cotter pin through the bolt. It makes me wonder if the flat washer doesn't work as well as the split washer, and hence the cotter pin backup so in case the bolt comes loose there is a level of protection to keep the nut from falling off.

 

[Frenchy]

I understan

I probably didn't make myself clear - I understand all of this in terms of the weakest link.

I'm really interested in any thoughts on the flat washer element vs a split washer, and the use of a cotter pin through the bolt. It makes me wonder if the flat washer doesn't work as well as the split washer, and hence the cotter pin backup so in case the bolt comes loose there is a level of protection to keep the nut from falling off.

The split washer you are talking about is a lock washer. They work very well and as long as you're not having to flip the ball at all you will be fine using it. As an idea if you don't already have a ball rated to what you're wanting go to your local auto parts store that has the Quick Change ball. It gives you the two small common sizes of 1 15/16(I think that might be wrong) I think and a 2-in ball along with the 2 5/16 ball. All rated to 10K and change quick. I had one by Reese and it was awesome.

 

[Grumpaw]

In all my many years and miles of towing all kinds of trailers, I have never had a ball with a split/lock washer/nut come loose.....never !!! From a 4x6 flat bed to a 36 foot travel trailer, have always used a split/lock washer.
The ft/lbs that the ball/nut is torqued down to is so high there is virtually no chance of it coming loose.
Me, personally...wouldn't trust a flat washer with a cotter pin.....only purpose for the cotter pin is so the nut dosen't fall off if it gets loose from the flat washer.

 

[MrBirdman330]

I need to buy a 7500 lb rated 2" hitch ball to switch out a 6000 lb ball on a 4" drop receiver.

I picked up a new horse trailer in Oklahoma, but the 6" drop hitch I brought with was too low for the empty trailer. So, the trailer place sold me a 4" drop receiver to get home with - but they only had a 6000 lb hitch ball to put on the 7500 lb rated receiver - this was fine for the empty 2600 lb trailer.

However, a utility trailer (3500 lb axle) I use needs a much larger drop, so I purchase an adjustable receiver rated for 5000 lbs https://www.amazon.com/dp/B008CE06ZA?psc=1&ref=ppx_yo2ov_dt_b_product_details (no hitch ball included) and now plan to buy a 7500 lb hitch ball to put on the 4" drop receiver, and move the 6000 lb to the adjustable receiver to use with my utility trailer.

I thought if I bought the hitch ball at U-haul, I could pay them to swap the hitch balls - but I think this being CA and liability, nobody is going to do the mount on a receiver I bring in.

But, I see the U-haul uses a flat washer instead of split washer, and has a cotter pin through the bolt for extra safety - see https://www.uhaul.com/MovingSupplies/Hitch-Balls-Mounts/Hitch-Balls/2-Hitch-Balls/?mid=424

Any feedback on the U-haul hitch ball?

I worked for U-Haul, aside the cotter pin there's a crushable plastic washer that is also used when using their hitch ball and mounting it to a receiver. They work perfectly, can't tell you how many I've done and I have one or two myself that are 2 inch drops incase I need to tow.

 

[houseOfDogs]

I worked for U-Haul, aside the cotter pin there's a crushable plastic washer that is also used when using their hitch ball and mounting it to a receiver. They work perfectly, can't tell you how many I've done and I have one or two myself that are 2 inch drops incase I need to tow.

Thanks for your reply! I just watched the video on the product page and I see how that plastic washer helps you get to the proper tightening / torque without a torque wrench -- that seems like a nice feature.

I do think I'll go with the U-haul ball mount, though I'll have to buy the 1-5/8" hitch wrench as I only have a 1-1/8 / 1-1/2" hitch wrench, unless the store will mount the hitch ball for me

FYI, I enjoyed my one day Des Moines visit this month picking up my Ranger from Granger. It was not the flat Iowa cornfield landscape I was anticipating (I went to U of I Champaign/Urbana which was the flat cornfield area).

 

[MrBirdman330]

Thanks for your reply! I just watched the video on the product page and I see how that plastic washer helps you get to the proper tightening / torque without a torque wrench -- that seems like a nice feature.

I do think I'll go with the U-haul ball mount, though I'll have to buy the 1-5/8" hitch wrench as I only have a 1-1/8 / 1-1/2" hitch wrench, unless the store will mount the hitch ball for me

FYI, I enjoyed my one day Des Moines visit this month picking up my Ranger from Granger. It was not the flat Iowa cornfield landscape I was anticipating (I went to U of I Champaign/Urbana which was the flat cornfield area).

No Iowa isn't exactly flat but we have more than plenty of corn to go around. Having lived here for about 35 years we have corn and soy beans. Plenty of Hog Farms too.

 

[P. A. Schilke]

I need to buy a 7500 lb rated 2" hitch ball to switch out a 6000 lb ball on a 4" drop receiver.

I picked up a new horse trailer in Oklahoma, but the 6" drop hitch I brought with was too low for the empty trailer. So, the trailer place sold me a 4" drop receiver to get home with - but they only had a 6000 lb hitch ball to put on the 7500 lb rated receiver - this was fine for the empty 2600 lb trailer.

However, a utility trailer (3500 lb axle) I use needs a much larger drop, so I purchase an adjustable receiver rated for 5000 lbs https://www.amazon.com/dp/B008CE06ZA?psc=1&ref=ppx_yo2ov_dt_b_product_details (no hitch ball included) and now plan to buy a 7500 lb hitch ball to put on the 4" drop receiver, and move the 6000 lb to the adjustable receiver to use with my utility trailer.

I thought if I bought the hitch ball at U-haul, I could pay them to swap the hitch balls - but I think this being CA and liability, nobody is going to do the mount on a receiver I bring in.

But, I see the U-haul uses a flat washer instead of split washer, and has a cotter pin through the bolt for extra safety - see https://www.uhaul.com/MovingSupplies/Hitch-Balls-Mounts/Hitch-Balls/2-Hitch-Balls/?mid=424

Any feedback on the U-haul hitch ball?

I do not know the U Haul system, but will offer up that if the "flat" washer is not really flat but is slightly bellviewed then this washer is actually slightly more effective than a split lock washer.

Back Story,

Young engineer...I had Engine Mounts and Accelerator Controls for all light trucks in 1975, 302 V8 engine mounts were always troublesome. Two bolt attachment to the engine block. I was forever dinged in durability vehicles for missing fasteners. They were, at the time, fine thead 3/8 x 24 with a grade 8 split washer. I needed a more robust attachment, but how? Can't add an attachment point like other engines with three bolts. So went to fastener engineer, Steve M (later Steve would work for me...but that is another story). He suggested a captive bellviewed washer fastener. I investigated this and got involved with a bolt manufacturer, who said they could make these new fasteners. Testing at the same install torque showed superior retention to the loose split washer design. I was happy and satisfied with the outcome....Plant liked them as they no longer had to pick up a bolt and then a loose split washer and install them....just grab a bolt and install...washer was along for the ride...

Best,
Phil

 

[GTGallop]

I have a Uhaul 2 or 3 inch drop hitch and the flat washer / castle nut cotter pin set up. I've not used it recently but did a fair amount of towing when it was on my Titan. It worked fine.

 

[Grumpaw]

From ETrailer site (pretty much the on-line experts on hitches....)
If shank diameter is...
3/4 inch....torque to 150 ft lbs
1 inch..........torque to 250 ft lbs
1 1/4 inch..torque to 450 ft lbs

I doubt if either type of washer/split ring is used, and properly torqued, the ball will come loose.
My 10,000 lb Blue Ox set up uses the 1 1/4 shank ball and I had to buy a special impact socket to properly reach the proper torque rating with my air wrench.

 

[Skit hjälm]

Fwiw,
If you have the wrench for it and know how much you weigh…
Just standing on the wrench at the right distance from the nut will get torque plenty close for the job.
works great for unscrewing the nut too.
btw,
Come to think of it,
Standing on the wrench won’t work well if it’s bumper towing..

If shank diameter is...
3/4 inch....torque to 150 ft lbs
1 inch..........torque to 250 ft lbs
1 1/4 inch..torque to 450 ft lbs

I doubt if either type of washer/split ring is used, and properly torqued, the ball will come loose.

 

[Grumpaw]

Fwiw,
If you have the wrench for it and know how much you weigh…
Just standing on the wrench at the right distance from the nut will get torque plenty close for the job.
works great for unscrewing the nut too.
btw,
Come to think of it,
Standing on the wrench won’t work well if it’s bumper towing..

On the hitch head on Blue Ox weight dist. hitches the nut is in a recessed pocket that requires a proper socket and impact wrench of at least 450 lb rating or more. My Milwaukee has a 650 lb rating.

 

[houseOfDogs]

Props to U-Haul. I bought their 2" 7500 lb rated hitch ball, and they moved the prior 6000 lb hitch ball to the adjustable 5000 lb rated hitch receiver (yes, it's still 5000 lb max) and put the new 7500 lb ball on the 7500 lb rated 4" drop receiver for no charge.

This is vs the trailer place I went to that said "we can't do that even if you paid us" because of liability issues.

 

[Muddy Fenders]

I triple my safety

Standard split lock washer
Castellated friction nut
Plus a cotter pin

That sumb*tch isn't coming off.

Just a reminder that the nut torque is the first level of safety. Torqued correctly, it should never loosen. The more levels of safety you add, such as a split washer, a friction nut, a cotter pin; they all aid in ensuring that if the torque is being lost for whatever reason the assembly stays together at least long enough for you to realise there is a problem.

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