Truck bucks and jerks - took to dealer today and need help

[Muddy Fenders]

Maybe you should read exactly what I wrote. Here it is:

I don't post much; literally not at all. Because being a spectator is far more enjoyable than being a participant (think bull riding and physical sports) but I have a helpful suggestion that may improve the ability for others to see clearly when a quote is presented that doesn't look like a wall of text with little to no separation context. Sometimes the little " thingies are lost in all that verbiage. I only saw one myself.
There is a toolbar at the top with plenty of enriching items to change up the quoted text beyond copy/paste. Very helpful when trying to post a whole story from someone else that isn't your's
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[Progeny2021]

That's kinda hard to read in all caps, friend.
Just saying.

The writer could have broken his prose up into a couple of paragraphs too, but he's by far not the worst offender here. At least his message is understood.

 

[GTGallop]

I'm coming to the end of my warranty. I have a list of my problems - none of them are huge or even significant. But I'm going to take it in and get it looked at right near the end of warranty. Lets see if there are any codes or real issues that are just beginning to manifest as minor "observations."

That way I get it all back with anything outstanding taken care of before they push it over the 36,000 mark.

 

[NotBudule]

I'm coming to the end of my warranty. I have a list of my problems - none of them are huge or even significant. But I'm going to take it in and get it looked at right near the end of warranty. Lets see if there are any codes or real issues that are just beginning to manifest as minor "observations."

That way I get it all back with anything outstanding taken care of before they push it over the 36,000 mark.

Some of those "issues" you may have to help along a little to get them covered , wink wink...

 

[TOMDEE]

That's kinda hard to read in all caps, friend.
Just saying.

OH? I'M SIGHT IMPAIRED, SORRY

 

[Techcargt]

As an fyi, the EGR valve is covered under a different warranty. 2 year or 24,000 miles.

You might be wrong about that , as this is what my book says. I guess it is up for interpretation.
EMISSIONS PERFORMANCE WARRANTY COVERAGE
Under Emissions Performance Warranty Coverage, Ford Motor Company
will repair, replace, or adjust - with no charge for labor, diagnosis, or parts -
any emissions control device or system, if you meet all of the following
conditions:
• You have maintained and operated your vehicle according to the
instructions on proper care in the Owner’s Manual and this booklet.
• Your vehicle fails to conform, during the warranty coverage period, to
the applicable national EPA standards, as determined by an EPA
approved inspection and maintenance program.
• You are subject to a penalty or sanction under local, state, or federal law
because your vehicle has failed to conform to the emissions standards.
(A penalty or sanction can include being denied the right to use your
vehicle.)
• Your vehicle has not been tampered with, misused, or abused.
The warranty coverage period for:
• Passenger cars and light duty trucks (applies to vehicles up to 8,500
pounds GVWR) is as follows:
— 8 years or 80,000 miles (whichever occurs first) for catalytic
converter, electronic emissions control unit, and onboard emissions
diagnostic devices.
— 2 years or 24,000 miles (whichever occurs first) for all other
covered parts .
• Heavy duty vehicles (applies to trucks over 8,500 pounds GVWR up to
19,500 pounds GVWR)
— 5 years or 50,000 miles (whichever occurs first) for all covered
parts.
See WHAT IS COVERED? below for list of covered parts.
Note that the warranty period begins on the Warranty Start Date as
specified on page 2 of this booklet.
19

WHAT IS COVERED?
For your vehicle if these parts contain an emissions-related defect, they
are covered by both the Emissions Defect Warranty and the Emissions
Performance Warranty.
• Air Flow Sensor
• Air/Fuel Feedback Control
System and Sensors
• Air Induction System
• Catalytic Converters (including
Selective Catalytic Reduction
and Diesel Oxidation Catalysts)
• Cold Start Enrichment System
(diesel only)
• Controls for Deceleration
(diesel only)
• Diesel Exhaust Fluid System
• Diesel Particulate Filter
• Electronic Ignition System
(diesel only)
• Electronic Engine Control
Sensors and Switches
• Powertrain Control Module
(PCM)/ Engine Control Module
(ECM)*
• Evaporative Emission Control
System
• Exhaust Gas Recirculation
(EGR) System
• Exhaust Manifold
• Exhaust Pipe (Manifold to
Catalyst)
• Fuel Filler Tube and Seal
(non-diesel only)
• Fuel Injection System
• Fuel Injector Supply Manifold
• Fuel Tank (non-diesel only)
• Fuel Tank Pressure Control Valve
• Heating Elements of Side
Mirrors and Back Windows
(3.0L diesel F-150 only)
• Ignition Coil and/or Control
Module
• Intake Manifold
• Intercooler Assembly -
Engine Charger
• Malfunction Indicator Lamp
(MIL)/On-Board Diagnostic
(OBD) System
• PCV system and Oil Filler Cap
• Secondary Air Injection System
• Spark Control Components
• Spark Plugs and Ignition Wires
• Thermostat
• Throttle Body Assembly (MFI)
• Transmission Control Module
(TCM) and Solenoids
• Turbocharger Assembly
• Vacuum Distribution System
* Includes hardware and emissions related software changes only

 

[Mark W]

I could be wrong on the wastranty. I was just repeating what others posted o the other thread.

 

[Jason B]

— 8 years or 80,000 miles (whichever occurs first) for catalytic
converter, electronic emissions control unit, and onboard emissions
diagnostic devices.
— 2 years or 24,000 miles (whichever occurs first) for all other
covered parts .
• Heavy duty vehicles (applies to trucks over 8,500 pounds GVWR up to
19,500 pounds GVWR)
— 5 years or 50,000 miles (whichever occurs first) for all covered
parts.

My interpretation of that, an EGR valve is not a catalytic converter, electronic emissions control unit, or onboard emissions diagnostic device, so the 2/24 applies. But what does that mean for the 3/36 bumper to bumper warranty we get with the truck? Is it really not 3/36 b-b?

 

[Techcargt]

My interpretation of that, an EGR valve is not a catalytic converter, electronic emissions control unit, or onboard emissions diagnostic device, so the 2/24 applies. But what does that mean for the 3/36 bumper to bumper warranty we get with the truck? Is it really not 3/36 b-b?

It would fall under this ,,
8 years or 80,000 miles (whichever occurs first) for catalytic
converter, electronic emissions control unit, and onboard emissions
diagnostic devices.

 

[Mark W]

Those who have replaced it that I have read did so under the 2 year/24K mile warranty. Outside of that, they did so on their own.

However, who knows. For $25 Im not bringing it to the dealer to be a warranty item. But that's just me\

Mark

 

[TOMDEE]

Been having issues with my 2019 Ranger Lariat bucking and jerking when at low speed. Seems most common in a couple of situations. Going 25 mph and the truck is in 7th gear. Move the accelerator a little and it bucks and jerks. Same when in stop and go traffic.

Had this issue for some time and it got bac on a trip back home from our cabin. Called Ford immediately and I was slightly over the warrant of 60,000 (Had 60,300 miles). Ford dealership said they couldn't do anything as it was out of warranty. Called Ford and spoke with a nice guy who said Ford may be able o repair it free to me but nothing guaranteed.

Took it to the dealer today (first date they could get me in). They witnessed the problem and according to their machines, I have a bad torque converter and a couple of other things. Total cost to repair is around $3500. Dealership (who I like quite a bit by the way) called Ford and they agreed to pay $2000 leaving me with about $1500.

While this is a nice gesture, the problem happened before 60,000 miles and got much worse at the mileage mentioned above. Here are my questions

1. The dealership showed me a page of codes the truck kicked out when they put it on the diagnostic screen. I didn't get a close look but the list was long. Would those codes have a date associated with them by chance. IF so, it would be easy to show I had this problem before I called it in.
2. Any TSB's on something like this. I saw one for reprogramming the PCM but I think my issues are bigger than this.
3. I saw there is a class action lawsuit against Ford for their 10 speed transmission but it is only for F150's. I see many Ranger owners are sayg they have the same issue.
4. Suggestions on how to Ford to pay for the whole repair when I call Ford? Any information I don't have that I should get prior to calling? Any advice on how to sway them my way?


Mark

TAKE IT TO A DIFFERENT DEALERSHIP AND TRADE IT IN FOR A MAVERICK, YOU WILL COME OUT AHEAD!!!!

 

[Canadian Ranger]

I bought a 2019 Ranger in March, and it was bucking too. More like constantly searching for the correct gear, when pulling away at a green light or stop sign.
When I was in the midst of changing all my driveline fluids, the day I did my rear diff and transfer case it all went away. To be honest I don't know which one was the culprit, but I'm assuming it was the transfer case fluid.
On a side note, after changing the transfer case fluid, my truck has tons more torque in both 4H & 4L, but especially 4L.

 

[Singer]

Been having issues with my 2019 Ranger Lariat bucking and jerking when at low speed. Seems most common in a couple of situations. Going 25 mph and the truck is in 7th gear. Move the accelerator a little and it bucks and jerks. Same when in stop and go traffic.

Had this issue for some time and it got bac on a trip back home from our cabin. Called Ford immediately and I was slightly over the warrant of 60,000 (Had 60,300 miles). Ford dealership said they couldn't do anything as it was out of warranty. Called Ford and spoke with a nice guy who said Ford may be able o repair it free to me but nothing guaranteed.

Took it to the dealer today (first date they could get me in). They witnessed the problem and according to their machines, I have a bad torque converter and a couple of other things. Total cost to repair is around $3500. Dealership (who I like quite a bit by the way) called Ford and they agreed to pay $2000 leaving me with about $1500.

While this is a nice gesture, the problem happened before 60,000 miles and got much worse at the mileage mentioned above. Here are my questions

1. The dealership showed me a page of codes the truck kicked out when they put it on the diagnostic screen. I didn't get a close look but the list was long. Would those codes have a date associated with them by chance. IF so, it would be easy to show I had this problem before I called it in.
2. Any TSB's on something like this. I saw one for reprogramming the PCM but I think my issues are bigger than this.
3. I saw there is a class action lawsuit against Ford for their 10 speed transmission but it is only for F150's. I see many Ranger owners are sayg they have the same issue.
4. Suggestions on how to Ford to pay for the whole repair when I call Ford? Any information I don't have that I should get prior to calling? Any advice on how to sway them my way?


Mark

Mark. Hold on. I had the same problem. Ford kept my truck 2 months not knowing what problem was. Said it was torque converter but could not get one. Back order. So replaced with new transmission which comes with converter. Did not fix. Ended up being $16 EGR valve. Took 5 minutes to fix.

 

[Mark W]

Wanted to let everyone know the results of replacing the EGR valve on my vehicle.

First off, thanks to a fellow poster on this site who had a spare EGR valve and sold it and shipped it to me. Nice to know there are folks around that still help others out. I sincerely appreciate his efforts as it took time from his end to get it to me.

I have read how many folks can change this part out is 30 minutes or less. I can honestly say the actual part swap out too me less than 30 minutes and it was an easy repair to make. However, I'd like to nominate myself for taking the most time to do this simple task. I didn't need to find flashlight batteries as a prior poster but did something that took way more time. I dropped the darn wrench into the engine bay when removing the one and only bolt to get the bracket off.

I search for this stupid wrench forever looking down from the top. Couldn't see it. Tried going underneath, couldn't see it. Took off the driver side tire and the plastic "shrouds" - still couldn't find it. Finally took a flashlight and put it on a string and lowered it into the lower parts of the engine bay. Finally found where it was and then it was just a matter of time go under the truck and get something long enough to jiggle the wrench free which I finally did. Put everything back together. Total repair time, a little over 2 hours or so.

Results - drove the truck for maybe 10 miles. Went down a flat road at 25 mph and the truck stayed in 6th gear (usually would go into 7th when I had the issues). Feathered the throttle and nothing. No bucking/surging or whatever the issue is being called. I saw the perfect description of this problem somewhere. It was like driving a manual tranny and being in too high a gear and hitting the gas causing the vehicle to buck until you would downshift into a lower gear.

No more hard shifts, the whole truck drives smoother, idles better and no more hard shifts. Truck, and me, will be putting on 750 or so miles on it in the next week and if I have any issues, they will show up in this time period.

Thanks again for all the help, and special thanks to Ranger Bill who directed me to the other post and to a forum member who sold me his extra brand new part. A lifesaver.

 

[troutspinner]

Wanted to let everyone know the results of replacing the EGR valve on my vehicle.

First off, thanks to a fellow poster on this site who had a spare EGR valve and sold it and shipped it to me. Nice to know there are folks around that still help others out. I sincerely appreciate his efforts as it took time from his end to get it to me.

I have read how many folks can change this part out is 30 minutes or less. I can honestly say the actual part swap out too me less than 30 minutes and it was an easy repair to make. However, I'd like to nominate myself for taking the most time to do this simple task. I didn't need to find flashlight batteries as a prior poster but did something that took way more time. I dropped the darn wrench into the engine bay when removing the one and only bolt to get the bracket off.

I search for this stupid wrench forever looking down from the top. Couldn't see it. Tried going underneath, couldn't see it. Took off the driver side tire and the plastic "shrouds" - still couldn't find it. Finally took a flashlight and put it on a string and lowered it into the lower parts of the engine bay. Finally found where it was and then it was just a matter of time go under the truck and get something long enough to jiggle the wrench free which I finally did. Put everything back together. Total repair time, a little over 2 hours or so.

Results - drove the truck for maybe 10 miles. Went down a flat road at 25 mph and the truck stayed in 6th gear (usually would go into 7th when I had the issues). Feathered the throttle and nothing. No bucking/surging or whatever the issue is being called. I saw the perfect description of this problem somewhere. It was like driving a manual tranny and being in too high a gear and hitting the gas causing the vehicle to buck until you would downshift into a lower gear.

No more hard shifts, the whole truck drives smoother, idles better and no more hard shifts. Truck, and me, will be putting on 750 or so miles on it in the next week and if I have any issues, they will show up in this time period.

Thanks again for all the help, and special thanks to Ranger Bill who directed me to the other post and to a forum member who sold me his extra brand new part. A lifesaver.

LOL, I've dropped things in the engine bay myself making it the longest portion of the job so I feel your pain!

Great to hear of your results. I think I may grab one myself as I do get some bucking / surging here and there. Not as much as others have reported as I am in tow mode often and it behaves nicely in that mode but it can't hurt for the price.

I would love to hear back if you end up going back to that dealer and getting their opinion and if they're willing to be educated.

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