SOLVED: Towed to dealer today - Battery died, Replaced Under Warranty

UncleBob

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Well, I went to go to a doctor's appointment this afternoon and the battery was just dead... Nothing, nada. It surprised me.
Tried to put it on my charger and it would drop off with a failure code (on charger) that indicated a short in one of the cells.
Not all that confident on the charger's validity. I measured only about 6V DC across the battery posts.

At any rate, since I had less than 700 miles, I had it towed to dealer. I had to jump start it to even get it out of Park and out of the garage to put it on the flat bed tow truck.

Two or three times this past week I noticed that when I got in the truck there was a message displayed on the screen that the truck had gone into 'battery save' mode as if to indicate it thought it had detected a drain some where and was trying to protect itself.

While at the dealer I am going to have them look into the P0200 trouble codes that have popped up this last week as well. Assuming the codes didn't get lost when the battery was drained.
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Hounddog409

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Well, I went to go to a doctor's appointment this afternoon and the battery was just dead... Nothing, nada. It surprised me.
Tried to put it on my charger and it would drop off with a failure code (on charger) that indicated a short in one of the cells.
Not all that confident on the charger's validity. I measured only about 6V DC across the battery posts.

At any rate, since I had less than 700 miles, I had it towed to dealer. I had to jump start it to even get it out of Park and out of the garage to put it on the flat bed tow truck.

Two or three times this past week I noticed that when I got in the truck there was a message displayed on the screen that the truck had gone into 'battery save' mode as if to indicate it thought it had detected a drain some where and was trying to protect itself.

While at the dealer I am going to have them look into the P0200 trouble codes that have popped up this last week as well. Assuming the codes didn't get lost when the battery was drained.

what battery is Ford using in these?
 

dmeyer302

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what battery is Ford using in these?
Itā€™s an AGM battery, the same technology usually seen in motorcycles. Lemons aside, they should last longer than the typical lead batteries, while also not leaking :clap:



...but Iā€™m scared to see the replacement price!
 

Washashore

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Itā€™s an AGM battery, the same technology usually seen in motorcycles. Lemons aside, they should last longer than the typical lead batteries, while also not leaking :clap:



...but Iā€™m scared to see the replacement price!
Ford lists it for $207.95 https://parts.ford.com/shop/en/us/battery-7828623-1 and Rock Auto lists Motorcraft 94R ($167 + shipping) as a replacement. Not too bad!!
 

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Ford lists it for $207.95 https://parts.ford.com/shop/en/us/battery-7828623-1 and Rock Auto lists Motorcraft 94R ($167 + shipping) as a replacement. Not too bad!!
I agree that is a decent price. The Odyssey battery I bought for my 1990 Goldwing cost $160 in 2010. It has a 10yr limited warranty. Still have it in service.

My wife's Ford battery died a couple days ago...same symptoms as the OP....and it was only 2yrs old. Free Replacement. Dealer said the positive post was leaking and had a shorted cell. It was an AGM battery.
 


Sarge104

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This topic caused me to go out and give my own battery a test and I've got some concerns. CCA was around 1025 but voltage was 12.4. 70 degrees out and the Ranger had not been run for over 4 hours. Last night took it out for a hour drive and this morning the short trip to work. I'm used to batteries being 12.6 at full charge in use, and this is supported by most of the documentation I give my customers. Will have to put it on the charger tonight and get it topped off to see if the voltage comes up.

*Edit*

Testing documentation I base off of when I do my yearly stock tests:

BCI and Fixed Load Test Procedure
% CHARGExxxxx FLOODEDxxxxxAGM
100xxxxxxxxxxxxx 12.70-12.60xxxx 12.8 or higher
75xxxxxxxxxxxxxx 12.40xxxxxxxxxxx 12.60
50xxxxxxxxxxxxxx 12.20xxxxxxxxxxx 12.30
25xxxxxxxxxxxxxx 12.00xxxxxxxxxxx 12.00
0xxxxxxxxxxxxxxxx11.80xxxxxxxxxxx 11.80

12.4 and out the door for stock. After battery is in use, especially when I've been driving on said battery for nearly a month I expect voltage to be higher unless there is a draw somewhere.
 
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UncleBob

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Sorry for the delay on posting results. The dealer did confirm a defective battery. With the very low voltage across the posts, I suspect there was more that just one cell shorted. At any rate, they replaced the battery under warranty with no charge.

They were unable to find any problem to relate the P0200 CEL errors to and speculate that the low voltage could have triggered them. I will accept that for now and wait to see if any more show up.
 

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This topic caused me to go out and give my own battery a test and I've got some concerns. CCA was around 1025 but voltage was 12.4. 70 degrees out and the Ranger had not been run for over 4 hours. Last night took it out for a hour drive and this morning the short trip to work. I'm used to batteries being 12.6 at full charge in use, and this is supported by most of the documentation I give my customers. Will have to put it on the charger tonight and get it topped off to see if the voltage comes up.

*Edit*

Testing documentation I base off of when I do my yearly stock tests:

BCI and Fixed Load Test Procedure
% CHARGExxxxx FLOODEDxxxxxAGM
100xxxxxxxxxxxxx 12.70-12.60xxxx 12.8 or higher
75xxxxxxxxxxxxxx 12.40xxxxxxxxxxx 12.60
50xxxxxxxxxxxxxx 12.20xxxxxxxxxxx 12.30
25xxxxxxxxxxxxxx 12.00xxxxxxxxxxx 12.00
0xxxxxxxxxxxxxxxx11.80xxxxxxxxxxx 11.80

12.4 and out the door for stock. After battery is in use, especially when I've been driving on said battery for nearly a month I expect voltage to be higher unless there is a draw somewhere.

That 12.7v won't last long with anything drawing power and with cars these days, there is always something drawing power. You would have to disconnect the positive the instant you stop driving and then wait and check. Or top it off without it connected to the car.
And the new charging in cars also takes temperature into consideration topping off at a lower rate when hot.
 

me01

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I read elsewhere, unless u lock with beep, power is still being drawn on these things. It's a common problem I'm reading about.
 
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UncleBob

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I read elsewhere, unless u lock with beep, power is still being drawn on these things. It's a common problem I'm reading about.
Not sure what you mean when you say "lock with beep". Do you mean that when you lock the doors and don't hear a beep, the power is still on? I don't think I have ever heard a beep. Of course, I don't use the FOB to lock the truck, I just touch the door handle and confirm I heart the locks click.
 

me01

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With the fob, press lock and lock again. On second lock, horn beeps.
 
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UncleBob

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With the fob, press lock and lock again. On second lock, horn beeps.
Ok, I get it. My daughter likes to do that with her Tundra. I guess it just gives her a confidence that the truck actually locked itself by hearing the horn beep. Whenever I drove her truck just hearing the locks click was good enough for me.. I didnā€™t need to be assaulted with the home blasting at me. Especially if it was late at night and not wanting to disturb the neighbors.
 

me01

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Ok, I get it. My daughter likes to do that with her Tundra. I guess it just gives her a confidence that the truck actually locked itself by hearing the horn beep. Whenever I drove her truck just hearing the locks click was good enough for me.. I didnā€™t need to be assaulted with the home blasting at me. Especially if it was late at night and not wanting to disturb the neighbors.
Yes it's very annoying. I has a frontier it made a nice subtle little chime.
 

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As with UncleBob, went out to start the truck this morning. Totally dead. Had to use the emergency key to open the doors. Not a single light came on. Battery read 4.9V! Dealer came out, and jump started it. Their volt meter then showed 14.9V under charging which clearly meant the battery was likely bad. They took it in and brought it back in 2 hours with a new battery. They said they had had several of these go bad. Total charge (under warranty) was $259.99 with labor. Great dealer and very pleased with the quick response.
 
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Rp930

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As with UncleBob, went out to start the truck this morning. Totally dead. Had to use the emergency key to open the doors. Not a single light came on. Battery read 4.9V! Dealer came out, and jump started it. Their volt meter then showed 14.9V under charging which clearly meant the battery was likely bad. They took it in and brought it back in 2 hours with a new battery. They said they had had several of these go bad. Total charge (under warranty) was $259.99 with labor. Great dealer and very pleased with the quick response.
Why did you have to pay for it?
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