Target towing weight

nubzilla

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I know with the tow package the truck is rated up to 7500 lbs, but what is your opinion of a safe target weight?

I've read no more then 70% to 80% for safety reasons but just curious what others have experienced.

I came across this post and just wanted to hear some thoughts. https://www.thomastravelers.com/rig/2019-ford-ranger-xlt/

Thanks
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nubzilla

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Just as a point of context. I have a family of four and we would like to purchase a small travel trailer.

I am trying to figure out the right size.
 

P. A. Schilke

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Just as a point of context. I have a family of four and we would like to purchase a small travel trailer.

I am trying to figure out the right size.
Hi NZ,

The weigh you can safely tow is 7500 as stated in your owner's manual. Not a fudge factor percentage reduction. We test at this weight and over a bit to ensure our numbers. A percentage reduction is pure BS.

That said above, you need to understand that you must factor in your loading into the RV you choose. Most folks overload the RV from the Get Go. Take your RV, fully loaded to the local Truck Stop CAT Scales and weigh it. If you find like many folks that you are above 7500...then you need to assess what to remove to achieve this weight and reweigh at the scales. Then you are not guessing you are okay.... Screw the fudge factors that many websites recommend.... Just weigh the RV as you hope to use it.... Knowledge is King here....

Best,
Phil
 

Big Blue

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You ask a very heated question that will get a varity of answers. I will only say this, you truck has rating called Gross Combined Vehicle Weight Rating (GCVWR). This number is the total weight of the truck, the trailer and ALL cargo in both. And varies by what cab you have and if it 4x4 or 4x2. Check Fords towing quide for the exact number This includes people. Another factor is your experience towing and how far are you going to travel. Towing a Travel trailer is not like towing a load of dirt.

Now my opinion, take this for what you will. I will probably get slammed for it. I would stay 25 foot or less and under 5,000 pounds dry weight. The get it weighed with everything you are going to take camping, so you know where you set.
 
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nubzilla

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Hi NZ,

The weigh you can safely tow is 7500 as stated in your owner's manual. Not a fudge factor percentage reduction. We test at this weight and over a bit to ensure our numbers. A percentage reduction is pure BS.

That said above, you need to understand that you must factor in your loading into the RV you choose. Most folks overload the RV from the Get Go. Take your RV, fully loaded to the local Truck Stop CAT Scales and weigh it. If you find like many folks that you are above 7500...then you need to assess what to remove to achieve this weight and reweigh at the scales. Then you are not guessing you are okay.... Screw the fudge factors that many websites recommend.... Just weigh the RV as you hope to use it.... Knowledge is King here....

Best,
Phil
Thanks for the no BS answer. I appreciate to hear the diligence that Ford put into determining these numbers!

It sounds to me to work backwards. Stat with human weight, plus anything I expect in the cab. Then see what is left for the trailer respecting the tongue limits.

Thanks
 


brroberts

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Also, that 7500lbs is based on a frontal area that is smaller than most TT’s. Mountains, long trips, or the local lake??? While the truck can do it, at what cost to wear and tear as well as comfort. My trailer is 4620lbs, 7’ wide and tows great for me with a loaded truck. Others say my truck is too small. Only you can really determine your needs and comfort level.
 
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nubzilla

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You ask a very heated question that will get a varity of answers. I will only say this, you truck has rating called Gross Combined Vehicle Weight Rating (GCVWR). This number is the total weight of the truck, the trailer and ALL cargo in both. And varies by what cab you have and if it 4x4 or 4x2. Check Fords towing quide for the exact number This includes people. Another factor is your experience towing and how far are you going to travel. Towing a Travel trailer is not like towing a load of dirt.

Now my opinion, take this for what you will. I will probably get slammed for it. I would stay 25 foot or less and under 5,000 pounds dry weight. The get it weighed with everything you are going to take camping, so you know where you set.
I've been trying to make heads and tails of all the existing threads to come to some conclusion.

Your numbers are where I am starting at. Mostly giving the space for additional gear and human weight.

@P. A. Schilke s solution is the only way to have confidence.
 

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Im with Phil in this one. Ford has already given you a safe number to tow with your truck. As long as your number match that maximum towing rating or are lower you are going to be just fine. Just make sure you take the time to select what is right for you
 

deleriumtremor

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There is a lot more that goes into safe towing than max tow capacity.

I have only stopped a few times when I saw a travel trailer strewn along the side of the highway. I would hazard a guess, in every one, the guy was towing under his max towing weight. When I am hauling anything, I want margins.
 

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Also, that 7500lbs is based on a frontal area that is smaller than most TT’s. Mountains, long trips, or the local lake??? While the truck can do it, at what cost to wear and tear as well as comfort. My trailer is 4620lbs, 7’ wide and tows great for me with a loaded truck. Others say my truck is too small. Only you can really determine your needs and comfort level.
The frontal area has nothing to do with the weight rating.

Frontal area is more of a performance number than anything. Big frontal area is going to take more power (fuel) to move through the air. Harder in the truck long-term? Probably slightly. But look at the restrictions for the F350/F450, they still only recommend 75 sq ft as a max. There's some 5th wheel trailers out there that are above that.

If you're ok with the fuel consumption, the 55 sq ft limit is, not what I would call a 'nothing number', but pretty close.
 

deleriumtremor

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The frontal area has nothing to do with the weight rating.

Frontal area is more of a performance number than anything. Big frontal area is going to take more power (fuel) to move through the air. Harder in the truck long-term? Probably slightly. But look at the restrictions for the F350/F450, they still only recommend 75 sq ft as a max. There's some 5th wheel trailers out there that are above that.

If you're ok with the fuel consumption, the 55 sq ft limit is, not what I would call a 'nothing number', but pretty close.
I disagree with the characterization above (a little). From the standpoint of of outright breaking things if you exceed the frontal area recommendations, sure.

From the standpoint of wear and tear, it isn’t almost nothing. With weight, what you start with is what you have to drag along the whole way less gas used.

A flat bed trailer loaded to max gross weight, drug from the nursery to the backyard, is one thing. A big old fiberglass composite walled box loaded out to max trailer weight and being towed up and down hill and dale at freeway speeds each weekend, maybe a little different deal.

Frontal area is drag, and drag goes up at the square of the velocity. What that terrible gas mileage translates to is heat. Heat, depending on the component translates to shortened life. Pulling a giant sail along at 65 MPH at max gross weight and then starting up a relatively steep grade, is not going to be nothing when ot comes to heat and wear and tear on the truck.

If you trade in your truck every three years, will you have a statistically larger number of component failures, maybe not. But if you plan to keep the truck for a while, following recommendations of the manufacturer as it pertains to all the details and maybe giving yourself a little margin for things you overlooked or never experienced out on the highway, probably isn’t a bad idea.
 

awd.nv

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We are a family of 4 but our boys are 7 and still in car seats. Our Geo Pro 19BH tows so well that I know there is still headroom and that is on 285/70/17 tires and no tune on the truck. I want to add the Ford 91 tune for fun but not out of need.

Our dry weight is 3200lbs and I figure loaded we shouldnt be over 4000lbs but I have yet to put it on the scales. I try to keep the bed lightly packed as tongue weight is about 530lbs counting the weight of the WDH.

Oh and PLS BUY A Weight Distribution Hitch!!! It is night and day difference in stability.

If we upgrade our trailer, I want to keep dry weight under 5500lbs AT MAX. No doubt the truck can tow the 7500lbs but the travel trailer is a parachute basically. You basically adjust your speed as necessary to not totally destroy your MPG. I will take a headwind over a cross wind though. Depending on winds our same exact setup might get 6mpg or 13mpg depending on the conditions but we generally average 8-11mpg.

Funny thing, in the Geo Pro Facebook group, the F150 do not do much better for mpg. Maybe 1-2mpg better but they have larger fuel tanks which is nice for towing. I love our Ranger, I might have gone more extreme with the lift if we did not tow so much. We take our trailer out often.

(edit: by loaded weight, I mean the trailer not including payload)
 

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If you run up to the edge, there is little room for error. You have to factor in your driving skill, the roads, the wind, high profile, etc. The general rule of thumb that most experienced RV's say is use enough truck.
 

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Hi NZ,

The weigh you can safely tow is 7500 as stated in your owner's manual. Not a fudge factor percentage reduction. We test at this weight and over a bit to ensure our numbers. A percentage reduction is pure BS.

That said above, you need to understand that you must factor in your loading into the RV you choose. Most folks overload the RV from the Get Go. Take your RV, fully loaded to the local Truck Stop CAT Scales and weigh it. If you find like many folks that you are above 7500...then you need to assess what to remove to achieve this weight and reweigh at the scales. Then you are not guessing you are okay.... Screw the fudge factors that many websites recommend.... Just weigh the RV as you hope to use it.... Knowledge is King here....

Best,
Phil
I will have to disagree with this advice. While it is technically correct, it is impossible to follow. The OP is looking for a trailer to buy. There is simply no way to load up a trailer one does not have and weigh it. This is one of the reasons for these fudge factors. You need to buy a trailer that is light enough so after you load it up you won't be over the tow weight limit.

The other reason for fudge factors is the driving experience. A truck that is pulling its max weight is not going to be fun to drive. That is one reason OTR truck drivers get paid to drive. (The other is the tight schedules they have to make.) You don't want to be driving a truck that is stressful to drive when you are on vacation.

I see this so many times on RV sites. Someone asks how much trailer can he buy, and someone else will reply "weigh it on a CAT scales when fully loaded". You just can't load up a trailer you don't have and weigh it. That would be like test driving your new truck design before you build it...
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