Take off vibration (video)

TheKracka

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Sometimes I feel a little vibration but I equate it to the transmission being in too high of a gear for the load/speed. Not sure if the shift points need revamped or if I'm just not used to an automatic? My first auto since 2001.
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XLT and me

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^ This is the sensation i'm feeling. I'm going to try driving in tow mode as another poster suggested since that will make it hit every gear instead of skip shifting to see what happens. Haven't gone anywhere to try it yet, weather is terrible out. My mudflaps came in yesterday but i don't want to lay out in the driveway in the cold and SNOW to put them on. My first day of vacation and what do i wake up too? S-N-O-W! Will report back with my results when i go out for drive.
 

TheKracka

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^ This is the sensation i'm feeling. I'm going to try driving in tow mode as another poster suggested since that will make it hit every gear instead of skip shifting to see what happens. Haven't gone anywhere to try it yet, weather is terrible out. My mudflaps came in yesterday but i don't want to lay out in the driveway in the cold and SNOW to put them on. My first day of vacation and what do i wake up too? S-N-O-W! Will report back with my results when i go out for drive.
I'll have to remember to try that as well.

That would be my luck, mother nature is bipolar! ?
 
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commbubba19

commbubba19

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Hi CB19,

I think your next step is to lube the slip yoke splines on the drive shaft to see if this eliminates the side load...

Best,
Phil Schilke
Ranger Vehicle Engineering
Ford Motor Co. Retired
I’m not following. The side load is due to the mount of the carrier bearing not having enough adjustment. I don’t believe it’s a lack of lubrication.
 

TheKracka

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So it seems the vibration I'm sensing is too high of a gear for the load/speed, if I either shift into sport mode or press the downshift button once or twice it goes away. Typically I notice going steady down the highway and then going up a slight hill where you have to press on the accelerator a tad more to maintain speed but it's not enough to make it kick down a gear.

Tow/haul mode made a little difference at low speeds but not much at highway, still wasn't downshifting unless I put my foot in it, almost the same as leaving it in drive and tow/haul off.
 


P. A. Schilke

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I’m not following. The side load is due to the mount of the carrier bearing not having enough adjustment. I don’t believe it’s a lack of lubrication.
Hi CB19

If your slip yoke spines are stuck (it happens) you can perceive it to be side loaded. Splines can slip-stick. Agree it it is a long shot but others have noticed it helped.

best,
Phil Schilke
Ranger Vehicle Engineering
Ford Motor Co. Retired
 

XLT and me

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Klay that is also what i was experiencing in my truck. I had to run down to parts store to get two m8 bolts to finish swing out tool box install. It is unseasonably cold out today, low 40s. started up truck and let it run a couple minutes. then drove over there using all side streets lots of stop signs. It didn't really do it at all with the engine not fully warmed up. I did notice a slight trans whine, barely noticable to the ear, first time for that. Auto stop was off.Trans possibly finally breaking in? More fuel being added by computer because it wasn't warm enough? Did notice it was running a little rough with a vibration in steering wheel and floor as rpms climbed but seemed to shift fine. Didn't go over 30mph. Could this phenomena be a combination of things thats why it is so hard to diagnose conclusively and why some people have this problem and others don't? It may be as Mr Shilke explained, and some of our trucks exacerbate the issue due to engine tune/shift parameters. stay tuned for the next episode of C.S.I Ranger : the Sudden Shudder!
 

XLT and me

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Well i have an update today. Did some driving around, went out to visit with my mom for mothers day. Drove around town, caught some red lights, went down side streets to get some stops at as many stop signs as i could. Approximately 60 degrees out. Not one shudder! Engine temp went from barely warm to fully warmed. Had a mix of left and right turns as well as straight on stops. The truck ran and drove like a champ. I had the auto stop turned off. I purposely tried to get it to shudder by starting out real easy, lugging it, starting out harder and it just wouldn't do it. This truck had a shudder on takeoff since i brought it home and for almost 500 miles total so far. The only thing i can think of, at least as far as my truck goes, is that the trans has "learned" and adjusted it's shifts. I can hear a very faint whine as it goes through the gears now, I had filled up with 93 octane a few days ago, so maybe that also made a difference. Haven't had it back on the highway, so i don't know if it will stutter vibrate on the grades like it was. I don't think my truck is having any driveshaft issues now, but time will tell. Keeping my fingers crossed it don't come back!
 

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So, I've done some testing... (I've got videos of the results of both tests, but they don't really equate to much)...

First I just loosened the carrier and wiggled it around, and re-tightened. Basically to re-seat it in it's natural position. This SEEMED to have helped, but looking a the video, it still moves way too much. I think because of it being warmer out, the rubber is working better to dampen the issues.

Second, I put in TWO washers on each side between the carrier and the frame. So, about 1/8 to 1/4 total. This didn't really seem to do anything either, and may have made it worse going by the video. Again, the warm weather seems to be dampening the issue more than when it is cold. But either way non of these tests really concluded anything...
 

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I’ve read this was an issue on random trucks before purchasing and now with 500 miles on my 20 XLT I’m noticing it too.
Found this video on a ranger Facebook page. This is exactly what I’m experiencing.
Has anyone gotten Ford to actually fix this? Looking at the video it looks like the carrier bearing rubber isolator is too soft. Are there an aftermarket options?


Years ago I had an old Chevy 3/4 with a 2pc drive shaft that started doing this very same thing. Ended up being the mid shaft U-Joint had a bad needle bearing and was causing it to seize up and not rotate as the shaft turned. This cause a heck of a shutter just like in your video. It wasn't until the joint failed and started making a clunk when going into reverse that I found it. Had to replace both the carrier bearing because the rubber had gotten torn by the shaking around as well as the mid shaft u-joint.

You can see it in the video @ 30 seconds. Slow the play back to .25 speed and watch it. As soon as the drive shaft starts to rotate (@31) it looks like its binding up and the carrier bearing absorbs the torque causing the entire shaft to lift up. Only when the angle on the the u-joint changes from the torque twisting on it does it give and the shaft assembly falls back into normal position. Even if it's not the mid shaft u-joint, any competent mechanic will see this and know what the issue is or can narrow it down to just a few things.


Really wish we had cameras like this 20 years ago to help diagnose issues like this.
 

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Second, I put in TWO washers on each side between the carrier and the frame. So, about 1/8 to 1/4 total. This didn't really seem to do anything either, and may have made it worse going by the video. Again, the warm weather seems to be dampening the issue more than when it is cold. But either way non of these tests really concluded anything...
This was something I was wondering about. if the carrier were effectively lowered, changing the angle of the driveshafts a bit. I would have thought that would have an effect.
 

TheKracka

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Believe the cause of this issue has been found. The drive shaft is out of phase, if you look at the rear section of the two piece driveshaft the u-joints at the rear end and carrier bearing are a few degrees off from one another.

I'll try to get pictures later but this video explains the science behind phasing:
 

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Believe the cause of this issue has been found. The drive shaft is out of phase, if you look at the rear section of the two piece driveshaft the u-joints at the rear end and carrier bearing are a few degrees off from one another.

I'll try to get pictures later but this video explains the science behind phasing:
Very interesting - never heard of this before. That video explained it well.

Thanks for posting it!
 

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Very interesting - never heard of this before. That video explained it well.

Thanks for posting it!
Neither had I before another thread about this very thing was posted up. But researching this and seeing it for myself on my drive shaft confirms that Ford definitely has an issue here that needs to be addressed.

Now getting the Ford to acknowledge the issue and the techs to understand what needs to be done to fix it provided the current shaft balance and spline clocking would permit it to be adjusted is the greater challenge.
 

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I'll have to take a close look at mine today and see if the same issue is present.
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