SSM 49264 - Climate Control Temperature Will Not Adjust With Clicking/Snapping Noise From The Dash

[JimG_AZ]

Yes and I've often wondered why, they use the same oil and most likely the same filters as many other cars, (SSangyong use a Mercedes derived engine and the same filter as many Mercedes models) and to add insult to injury, a filter made by Mann Hummel in their Korean factory resulting in a very good quality filter at 1/2 the price. Hyundai / Kia also use them. I guess they figure you are buying the name.

I agree, these cars should not be as expensive to repair as the dealers charge. One thing I have seen with the German cars is that there is more you have to take apart to repair them. Replacing the battery on my sons BMW 335 is easily an hour job. It is buried in the rear of the car and you have to remove interior panels and brackets just to get to it. It is really buried in the rear corner of the car.

I just helped my son do an oil change on his BMW and in this case it was as easy to do as the Ranger. The cartridge filter is right on top of the motor. I think the local BMW dealer wants @ $250 for that oil change. With a lift or a pit, it is probably a 10 minute job. Like you said, we used a Mann Hummel filter.

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[Swishpapasweets]

When my '19 Ranger developed this problem the dealer (Peoria Ford) wanted me to leave it with them for 2 weeks just to diagnose the problem. Then she said it would have to be here another 2-3 weeks to repair it and they had no loaner vehicles either and this was a larger dealer in the city. Yeah that wasn't happening so I just did the DIY repair myself which only took about an hour. Then twice a year I just had to remove the front panel under the steeling wheel and reach in and flip the broken piece of the actuator up or down.

Where is that exactly? Because that sounds like the exact issue with my ranger atm

 

[AzScorpion]

Where is that exactly? Because that sounds like the exact issue with my ranger atm

John, here's some pictures I took when I took mine apart. It's back in this thread on pst #162. Right below the steering wheel you take off the panel and access it through the side. Let me know if you have any other questions after looking at them. It's an easy fix just a pain to get your hand in there to but it's doable.

https://www.ranger5g.com/forum/thre...-noise-from-the-dash.9659/page-11#post-419911

Here's a video that Daniel @dmeyer302 made while doing his.

 

[Sinner]

I know this is an older thread but I'm experiencing HVAC issues on my 2019 Lariat and was hoping for some input. I just crossed over 100K miles so my warranty is toast.

Air only blows out of the front vents now, regardless of which vents I select. This is a major PITA as my defrost and feet vents no longer work. Would the manual adjustment method work in this case? I don't care to do that as I'm riding this truck until it (or the transmission) blows up. I've also noticed it blows extremely hot air for a while and then finally cools off. I had the dreaded "clicking" noise for a while but it seemed like it was coming from the passenger side. Not sure if replacing an actuator would give me some temporary time or even which one to replace if so.

 

[airline tech]

I know this is an older thread but I'm experiencing HVAC issues on my 2019 Lariat and was hoping for some input. I just crossed over 100K miles so my warranty is toast.

Air only blows out of the front vents now, regardless of which vents I select. This is a major PITA as my defrost and feet vents no longer work. Would the manual adjustment method work in this case? I don't care to do that as I'm riding this truck until it (or the transmission) blows up. I've also noticed it blows extremely hot air for a while and then finally cools off. I had the dreaded "clicking" noise for a while but it seemed like it was coming from the passenger side. Not sure if replacing an actuator would give me some temporary time or even which one to replace if so.

Things to - Try
1. Check for codes - Clear Them (If any) - Note what they are
2. FCIM - Self Test (Reset) - Scan Tool
3. Pull BCM - Fuse 12 for 5-Minutes

Do you have - Dual Auto -and can you go to manual and adjust temp (full travel) Lo to Hi?

 

[Sinner]

Things to - Try
1. Check for codes - Clear Them (If any) - Note what they are
2. FCIM - Self Test (Reset) - Scan Tool
3. Pull BCM - Fuse 12 for 5-Minutes

Do you have - Dual Auto -and can you go to manual and adjust temp (full travel) Lo to Hi?

Yes I have the Dual Auto and can manually adjust temp. I’ll try the fuse method and see what, if anything, happens. I don’t have access to a scan tool unfortunately.

 

[Dean]

Your best approach is to get an ODBII interface and connect Forscan and see what the diagnostics tell you.

 

[Metal Geezer]

*BREAKING NEWS*

Put your pitchforks away, the dash doesn't have to come out.

I too was staring down the barrel of a warranty repair and a dash that rattles for the rest of time. But that just really wasn't in the cards for me. So I went rogue...I have no idea if the dealer will cooperate and replace my actuator for me since they didn't do the work. But even the ~$35 I would have to pay on my own for the actuator is WAY better than having the dash pulled.

I present to you...the trick

This works.
PITA?? You bet.
Better than dropping kilobucks? 110%.
I planned based on the video. I asked Copilot which returned a lot of inaccurate info. One thing that was correct….without due care you will lose screws. 2 out of three vanished on me. M4 thread forming screws aren’t stocked locally which sux. The result however is worth it. Cold air or hot on demand, no clicking or chatter.
2 thumbs up!!

 

[airline tech]

Hopefully it will hold - if not - the dash will need removed to replace the warped box.
It may just be a temp fix - hopefully it’s permanent

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