SPD Performance Downpipe

t4thfavor

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Marshal.

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Really unfortunate to hear that just the downpipe increased the sound too much that it needed to be removed. I really like how quiet mine is currently when towing. Iā€™d be willing to add a bit of noise for a noticeable increase in power, but too much would be unacceptable on my part.
 

LewisLegacy

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808matt

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Did the exhaust sound ricey? Looking to buying a downpipe soon. Shitty stage 3 doesnā€™t respond to pm
 

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Unfortunately, my better half has informed me that the truck is too loud.. hah. I think it sounds great with the turbo whistle and the nice run on deceleration. Sooo Iā€™ll be selling mine at a discounted price of $400? Free shipping. Let me know if you want it and Iā€™ll send it out. :computerrage:
How much louder is it and do you have aftermarket exhaust? If so, which one? I might be interested in buying this.
 


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how do you pass the smog test if its not street legal? do you have to swamp it out?
 

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Hello Andy,

I very much appreciate your write-up on the downpipe installation.
Do you know if this change with mating up to stock exhaust would require ECU tuning?
From my Subaru turbo experience, you could use a heat wrap to quiet the radiant noise from this pipe.
The sound coming from the tailpipe wouldn't be affected, but might be OK with the engine bay quieted.

Here is a link to Heat Blanket material from Thermal Zero:
https://thermalzero.com/product/aluminized-heat-blanket-material-36-inch-x-36-inch/
They make fitted Thermal Blankets for Subaru downpipes, but maybe they could be persuaded to make one for the Ranger downpipe?

Another company that I am not very familiar with make custom downpipe thermal blankets, PTP Turbo Blankets. Here is a link to their site:
https://www.ptpturboblankets.com/collections/manifold-and-downpipe-blankets

I see Steve posted a link to the aFe downpipe in 304 SS. I found it on Carid's site, but where Steve found it is considerably cheaper

I am brand new to this forum, and I am enjoying it very much. I am getting ready to order a Lariat, non-FX4 soon.

Harry
 
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Mobius97

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Just curious, do these DP's coupled along with a higher flowing exhaust cause boost creep? Has anyone checked or running a gauge?
 

808matt

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Sure thing, it will be a generalized process.

1. Loosen exhaust clamp closest to the factory flex portion of the exhaust.
2. Unbolt the ridged mount that is attached to the transmission.
3. Loosen top two flange bolts from the top. 15mm wrench works for the passenger side top nut and a 15mm deep well with 3ā€ extensions reaches the inwards upmost nut. Bottom nut can be accessed from below or above. Dealers choice.
4. Pull the flex exhaust portion out of its rubber pin mount and back to slip it off the factory down pipe. (This is a little struggle and I soaked it in lube to help.)
5. Unclip the O2 sensors from the hvac suction line coming out of the firewall. (Access from above and below moving the down pipe to aid in access.)
6. Unplug both O2 sensors one plug is up closest to the hood and the other is along the body on the passenger side about 18ā€ from the turbo (about where your right foot would sit in the passenger seat.)
7. Factory downpipe can come out pretty easy if you arrange it right and watch for the O2 sensor wires as they will get caught up so donā€™t pull on it with any force.
8. The metal gasket is reusable and be carful to not bend it. It only goes on in one orientation so just keep flipping it until it lines up.
9. Take the O2 sensors off the factory down pipe and install them on the new one.
10. Install of the new down pipe is pretty straight forward from here. Just do the operation in reverse. You have more room to work now so itā€™s even faster.

Hope this helps!
Step 3. Anyone have any tips for this? I could not get leverage nor get my hand/ wrench to unbold the top 2 bolts
 

t4thfavor

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Step 3. Anyone have any tips for this? I could not get leverage nor get my hand/ wrench to unbold the top 2 bolts
I've not changed the downpipe on a Ranger before, but two things come to mind.

1. Smaller hands.
2. Bigger muscles.

In all fairness, try pb blaster (even on brand new vehicles) as exhaust components can be stuck after a very short time. Also try removing it with a little heat in the engine, like idle for 5 minutes, put on welding gloves, and immediately try to remove whatever bolt.
 

808matt

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Sure thing, it will be a generalized process.

1. Loosen exhaust clamp closest to the factory flex portion of the exhaust.
2. Unbolt the ridged mount that is attached to the transmission.
3. Loosen top two flange bolts from the top. 15mm wrench works for the passenger side top nut and a 15mm deep well with 3ā€ extensions reaches the inwards upmost nut. Bottom nut can be accessed from below or above. Dealers choice.
4. Pull the flex exhaust portion out of its rubber pin mount and back to slip it off the factory down pipe. (This is a little struggle and I soaked it in lube to help.)
5. Unclip the O2 sensors from the hvac suction line coming out of the firewall. (Access from above and below moving the down pipe to aid in access.)
6. Unplug both O2 sensors one plug is up closest to the hood and the other is along the body on the passenger side about 18ā€ from the turbo (about where your right foot would sit in the passenger seat.)
7. Factory downpipe can come out pretty easy if you arrange it right and watch for the O2 sensor wires as they will get caught up so donā€™t pull on it with any force.
8. The metal gasket is reusable and be carful to not bend it. It only goes on in one orientation so just keep flipping it until it lines up.
9. Take the O2 sensors off the factory down pipe and install them on the new one.
10. Install of the new down pipe is pretty straight forward from here. Just do the operation in reverse. You have more room to work now so itā€™s even faster.

Hope this helps!
No clue how you were able to get the top 3 flange bolts off. I could only get the upper drivers side and couldnā€™t get any leverage for the other 2. I think Iā€™m taking this to a shop to install
 

808matt

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I've not changed the downpipe on a Ranger before, but two things come to mind.

1. Smaller hands.
2. Bigger muscles.

In all fairness, try pb blaster (even on brand new vehicles) as exhaust components can be stuck after a very short time. Also try removing it with a little heat in the engine, like idle for 5 minutes, put on welding gloves, and immediately try to remove whatever bolt.
Those damn coolant hoses are in the way
 
OP
OP
Andy

Andy

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Those damn coolant hoses are in the way
I used an extension and deep well. Nut closest to the engine can be had from the top if you are in the bay so your arms are long enough. Bottom one can be had in either top or bottom. I found the bottom was easy to access or at least break loose and then undo from the top. The combination of box wrench, extension on a deep well, and a swivel are what I used.
 

808matt

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I used an extension and deep well. Nut closest to the engine can be had from the top if you are in the bay so your arms are long enough. Bottom one can be had in either top or bottom. I found the bottom was easy to access or at least break loose and then undo from the top. The combination of box wrench, extension on a deep well, and a swivel are what I used.
Having the right tools makes all the difference. An angle ratchet/ swivel made all the difference and a 15mm ratchet wrench. Got it done in about 2 hours
Sponsored

 
 



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