Sound Deadening

[Dwane Kepler]

I'm still choosing a tonneau, so I hope it helps, but I'm not really happy with the Lariat, it seems like there's a ton of road noise from the rear.

I agree 100%. Drowns out the radio at 65 mph. I spoke with the Ford rep, but didn't help.

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[tivct]

I used the brand called Noico and you can get it off amazon. I bought 36 sq ft of both the sound dampening material and the closed cell foam and it was just enough. The cost was $65 for the butyl and $49 for the CCF. You will want a $10 roller to help apply the material but it is a really easy to work with product. If you are applying it under 55* you will want a heat gun to keep it pliable and flexible. It took me about 6 hours to do as well.

Thanks for the info. Are you planning on tackling the floor or rear wall of the cab as well?

 

[ToothRanger]

No it was pretty easy. Just two screws behind the handle trim, one behind the door opening mech, and two on the bottom. Then you pry the push pins out and lift up/out.

I get horrible rattling when turning up the sound too. Definitely adding this to my project list.

Would you be willing to write up a tutorial with pics for the door panel removal? I'm sure I could probably figure it out, but the more help I can get the better so I don't break something.

 

[RangerKody]

I have some vibration coming from passenger door. I would like to see how you remove the panel. Don’t want to break anything.

 

[Andy]

I get horrible rattling when turning up the sound too. Definitely adding this to my project list.

Would you be willing to write up a tutorial with pics for the door panel removal? I'm sure I could probably figure it out, but the more help I can get the better so I don't break something.

I have some vibration coming from passenger door. I would like to see how you remove the panel. Don’t want to break anything.

I’ll get a simple write-up on door pannel removal made tomorrow for you.

It’s one of the easier door panels I’ve delt with and they did a decent job of isolation on the door. It has a CCF vapor barrier held on with adhesive as well as a poly blanket to keep road noise down. It’s just the sheet metal cross sections / connectors behind all of this that vibrate with certain frequencies.

 

[rangerdanger]

I’ll get a simple write-up on door pannel removal made tomorrow for you.

It’s one of the easier door panels I’ve delt with and they did a decent job of isolation on the door. It has a CCF vapor barrier held on with adhesive as well as a poly blanket to keep road noise down. It’s just the sheet metal cross sections / connectors behind all of this that vibrate with certain frequencies.

@OC4095 already did it: Factory Speaker Size On a Crew Cab (non B&O)

 

[ToothRanger]

I’ll get a simple write-up on door pannel removal made tomorrow for you.

It’s one of the easier door panels I’ve delt with and they did a decent job of isolation on the door. It has a CCF vapor barrier held on with adhesive as well as a poly blanket to keep road noise down. It’s just the sheet metal cross sections / connectors behind all of this that vibrate with certain frequencies.

The more information we can have, all the better! Thanks!

 

[Johnpenn]

Just ordered speakers and sound insulation for my doors. Even the B&O sound system uses crap OEM speakers. Are you still happy with your results?

 

[Johnpenn]

Let us know if this helps the speaker door rattle. Looking to do the same.

What speakers did you get? Are you hooking up a aftermarket amp to them?

Ordered a pair of Morel TEMPO ULTRA 602 6.5" component speakers for the front and Morel Maximo Coax 6 for the rear doors. The rear speakers don't really do much in the B&O system. for the front seat sound. I decided to upgrade them since I was taking the panels and speakers off for sound insulation anyway and the Maximos are cheap and have to be better than the OEM crap.

Maybe an amp later but I want to see what it sounds like first and it's pretty expensive to upgrade the B&O. My research into it tells me you need a Zen Audio DSP12A-A2B to properly convert signals and functionality from the can bus at about $500 alone plus an amp or 2. That's out of my budget for this year.
I haven't really found any rattle in my front doors but I don't turn it up super loud either. Another reason why I may not need an amp. If you're doing it yourself, it's tough to evaluate what the final result will be from reading reviews and opinions.

 

[Hounddog409]

I'm still choosing a tonneau, so I hope it helps, but I'm not really happy with the Lariat, it seems like there's a ton of road noise from the rear.

I think you should find the source, instead of hiding the problem. Its under warranty. Take it to the dealer. Drive another to compare.

This the the quietest vehicle i have owned. By far. You have something amiss.

 

[P. A. Schilke]

Just ordered speakers and sound insulation for my doors. Even the B&O sound system uses crap OEM speakers. Are you still happy with your results?

Need a bit of data...OEM are crap is a judgement...Why.? not big enough, poor frequency response? High notes truncated.

I am betting it is just the fact the speakers are OEM. Please provide some objective data as this is how Ford addresses concerns and strives for improvement and you can help drive this improvement process.

best,
Phil Schilke
Ranger Vehicle Engineering
Ford Motor Co. Retired.

 

[Chef Dude]

Need a bit of data...OEM are crap is a judgement...Why.? not big enough, poor frequency response? High notes truncated.

I am betting it is just the fact the speakers are OEM. Please provide some objective data as this is how Ford addresses concerns and strives for improvement and you can help drive this improvement process.

best,
Phil Schilke
Ranger Vehicle Engineering
Ford Motor Co. Retired.

Hi Phil,
first of all let me tell you what a marvel of engineering I think my Ranger is. When I open things up I can see how every little detail was thoughtfully conceived and I always can't help but wonder how much work, thought, and trial process has gone into it. Except for the sound system. I have never owned a vehicle for which I felt the need to upgrade the sound system but this one. I listen mostly to classical music and jazz and while I am no expert or snob, all my music sounded as if it was coming from AM radio.
So I started by changing the speakers and when I opened the door panels I was amazed to discover that they didn't put a bit of sound deadening material inside those cavernous doors. Even my 2004 Toyota Matrix had at least a 6x6" patch of butyl material behind the speakers. The speakers themselves are not bad but the head unit has no power to drive them. So an amplifier must be added, but most amps are rated at 40-50 watts per channel and since the speakers can't take more than 20W they must be changed as well. At a minimum give the head unit enough gain/power to drive your own speakers!
While tuning the amp I put in, I also discover that the head unit "clips" or starts distorting the sound at less then half the volume. This is unacceptable. Not only does the head unit lack gain, but the little it has is distorted at anything over half volume.
I'm sure that the B&O system sounds a million times better than the stock system but my $35,000 XLT shouldn't NEED a total sound system overall.
Regards,
Duilio

 

[Sandman Ranger]

It sure is.. glad you got this figured out now. Next should be colors and shapes. Let me know when you are ready.

Buy a tail gate shock and engine cover now. He will be very mad!

 

[Sandman Ranger]

Need a bit of data...OEM are crap is a judgement...Why.? not big enough, poor frequency response? High notes truncated.

I am betting it is just the fact the speakers are OEM. Please provide some objective data as this is how Ford addresses concerns and strives for improvement and you can help drive this improvement process.

best,
Phil Schilke
Ranger Vehicle Engineering
Ford Motor Co. Retired.

Is it not a cost point decision?
There is always better. One can always add more sound deadening.
At some point manufacturers balance cost against meeting average buyer expectations. Those on pickier end of expectation want more. Those on lower end could care less. Auto manufacturers seem to take offense to many comments. The Ranger can not be a Bugatti, but if one wants that there is aftermarket, money and time.

 

[Sandman Ranger]

Wish someone would check Db meter readings before and after a job like this over same road and speed. I switched from run flats to non-RFs on my car. Checked a Db meter before and after. Was surprised the sound changed by less than 1 Db. Curious the true effect of sound deadening in the Ranger. Do you think the floor will need some material?

Would owners feelings not be the best test? One decibel to you might be nothing. To me it could be a savior.

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