Remote Start & Battery Saver Mode

[CTYankee]

I bought my 2020 Lariat in December with 34K miles on it. I've got FordPass set up and connected so I can do remote starts but it spends so much time in Battery Saver Mode that the remote start function is almost useless. 2 days ago, I took the truck out to get gas and a wash (about 30 minutes of run time total) and then had it running in the driveway while I finished setting up my Sirius/XM channel selects (another roughly 15 minutes).

By the time I was back in the house, I already had a notice from FordPass that it was back in Battery Saver mode. I was starting to think about getting an aftermarket remote start but then thought I'd check here to see what folks think.

The truck can sit for days and then fire right up with a push of the start button so the battery doesn't seem at all weak. However, there is nothing in the CarFax or dealer service records to suggest the battery has ever been replaced.

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[subquark]

I seem to have fits and spurts on that stupid battery saver notification. Mine can also sit a few days without moving, or worse, move in and out of the driveway so my wife can get out.

Mine also does mostly very short trips (like under 5 minutes) BUT I place it on a battery tender a few times a week. My truck will be 3 years old in May and has the original battery.

I also have less than 8,000 miles on it. I think the battery tender is what's keeping mine in decent shape (I use a TopDon tester).

I'd like to change my charge level up to 85-90% or maybe just unplug the BMS, just haven't gotten up the courage to get into Forscan.

 

[airline tech]

If you were to test the battery, I believe you will find a HIGH (IR) Reading in the 4-5 Range, and changing the SOC setting to 90% from the set 75% will help, along with the solutions mentioned in these threads.


Charging Sys-Full Description-Trigger Voltages-Test Results | 2019+ Ford Ranger and Raptor Forum (5th Generation) - Ranger5G.com

Maximizing Battery Life | 2019+ Ford Ranger and Raptor Forum (5th Generation) - Ranger5G.com

 

[CTYankee]

If you were to test the battery, I believe you will find a HIGH (IR) Reading in the 4-5 Range, and changing the SOC setting to 90% from the set 75% will help, along with the solutions mentioned in these threads.


Charging Sys-Full Description-Trigger Voltages-Test Results | 2019+ Ford Ranger and Raptor Forum (5th Generation) - Ranger5G.com

Maximizing Battery Life | 2019+ Ford Ranger and Raptor Forum (5th Generation) - Ranger5G.com

I read both of those posts. Incredible job by the authors, but I confess I'm not sure exactly how to make use of the information without Forscan.

What I am doing is ordering a Foxwell BT-103 Battery Analyzer. We have five vehicles and there's only one of them that gets driven routinely, so it's probably a good tool to have. I'm also going to try doing the battery module reset, based on the video at the end of the first post. I'm thinking those two steps will tell me if I need to replace the battery or proceed to getting set up with ForScan.

 

[CTYankee]

I should add that I got one of the plug-in voltage meters shown in the detailed posts linked above and just tested it. The truck has been sitting since last night around 9 PM, so about 19.5 hours. ACC power only showed voltage at 11.1V. With the motor running at idle, it went to 14.1V. It dropped pretty quickly after I shut off the motor.

I also did the BM reset sequence with the bright lights and brake pedal and now FordPass is allowing a remote start again. Tomorrow, I'll give it a good run down the highway and see if that solves the problem.

 

[airline tech]

I should add that I got one of the plug-in voltage meters shown in the detailed posts linked above and just tested it. The truck has been sitting since last night around 9 PM, so about 19.5 hours. ACC power only showed voltage at 11.1V. With the motor running at idle, it went to 14.1V. It dropped pretty quickly after I shut off the motor.

I also did the BM reset sequence with the bright lights and brake pedal and now FordPass is allowing a remote start again. Tomorrow, I'll give it a good run down the highway and see if that solves the problem.

So, with the plug-in meter - we have determined that the Power Point produces a .2 volt (voltage drop) reading due to the Power Point relay.
This makes your actual Battery Voltage of 11.3 Volts; research shows that 11.5 Volts is the trigger for the (Deep Sleep) notifications and (Remote Start) is disabled.

It appears the charging system is producing an output charge 14.3 Volts (Actual) but the battery is sulfated and is not accepting the full charge (Input) think of it as a clogged artery (High Resistance) to flow

 

[got3fords]

It appears the charging system is producing an output charge 14.3 Volts (Actual) but the battery is sulfated and is not accepting the full charge (Input) think of it as a clogged artery (High Resistance) to flow

Yes, it might be worth running a repair mode with a desulfating battery conditioner, like a Noco Genius.

 

[Tom_C]

Any indication the battery has been replaced, or it is stock? I have a Oct 2020 built Lariat, and I had to replace it in January. I don't use remote start, but I was starting to get some funny business, and ASS stopped working.

When I was in forscan resetting BMS, and also set SOC to 90%. I had never set it for the old battery.

 

[CTYankee]

Any indication the battery has been replaced, or it is stock? I have a Oct 2020 built Lariat, and I had to replace it in January. I don't use remote start, but I was starting to get some funny business, and ASS stopped working.

When I was in forscan resetting BMS, and also set SOC to 90%. I had never set it for the old battery.

It's apparently the original battery, judging from the service records, although it could have been replaced by the previous owner at some point. I'll have to remove the cover to see if there is a date code on it. My battery tester is due to arrive today, so I can check it when I test it.

I also just ordered the BatteryMinder OBD-12V unit. I'll use that to see if I can restore the battery rather than replace it. Maybe it'll repair my lawn tractor battery as well.

 

[got3fords]

It's apparently the original battery, judging from the service records, although it could have been replaced by the previous owner at some point. I'll have to remove the cover to see if there is a date code on it. My battery tester is due to arrive today, so I can check it when I test it.

Good tools to have.
If the owner replaced it himself, he may not have reset the BMS. I wonder if that could cause your symptoms.

 

[Tom_C]

Good tools to have.
If the owner replaced it himself, he may not have reset the BMS. I wonder if that could cause your symptoms.

The system is 'suppose' to reset itself after battery replacement when the truck sits overnight. Good idea to reset the BMS manually though.

 

[RangerBill]

The system is 'suppose' to reset itself after battery replacement when the truck sits overnight. Good idea to reset the BMS manually though.

The BMS system only updates the calculated state of charge of the battery when not being driven overnight (approx. 8 hours). In order to reset the BMS system, it must be manually done to reset the battery in-service time and date. This will affect the way the system charges the battery based on battery age. Sitting overnight does not accomplish this.

 

[WhiteRangerDanger]

I've always had that notice, even when I bought a new battery, the previous one died, I still get that notification. I've learned that it's a hit or miss when trying to start from the pak

 

[CTYankee]

My tester arrived and I immediately tested the battery, but forgot to take a picture. The truck had been sitting overnight so it was a completely cold test. The result was actually better in some respects than what's shown below.

In the first test, Volts were 11.something and the CCA was 458. The SOC was around 65%, I think.

Then I did my weekly dump run (about 10 miles round trip) and left the engine running while loading the truck at home and unloading it at the transfer station. When I got home, I immediately ran another test and got these results.

When the desulfator arrives, I'll hook it up and do some periodic tests to see how things change. I'd love it if I didn't have to replace the battery. In the meantime, I've hooked up a Battery Tender Jr. to see what effect that has.

 

[IdahoRanger]

My tester arrived and I immediately tested the battery, but forgot to take a picture. The truck had been sitting overnight so it was a completely cold test. The result was actually better in some respects than what's shown below.

In the first test, Volts were 11.something and the CCA was 458. The SOC was around 65%, I think.

Then I did my weekly dump run (about 10 miles round trip) and left the engine running while loading the truck at home and unloading it at the transfer station. When I got home, I immediately ran another test and got these results.

When the desulfator arrives, I'll hook it up and do some periodic tests to see how things change. I'd love it if I didn't have to replace the battery. In the meantime, I've hooked up a Battery Tender Jr. to see what effect that has.

That doesn't look too good but the desulfator does wonders. . Can you get an IR (internal resistance) reading?

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