ReadyLift Intrusion Beams

FocoRanger

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Hey y'all, new guy to the forum here. Here's the current build: 2019 Ranger XLT, Method 309 NVs (17x8.5, 4.75"BS), 265/70/17 Wildpeak AT3, Fox 2.0 coilovers and rear matching shocks.
So I put the wheels and tires on, thought I did enough research to avoid rubbing, but lone behold I rub at full crank turning right. I could never find anything on the ReadyLift High Clearance Intrusion Beams offered from Stage 3 Motorsports so I figure I'll post it up here.
I don't have before pictures, but rub was pretty bad on front beams at full crank. Not as bad on rear. OEM Intrusion beam removal is pretty straight forward, but definitely not "easy". I used a cut off wheel for as much as I could and had to Sawzall the rest which sucked. Went through 3 blades for the front two beams.
The ReadyLift beams are pretty beefy, and slide right in (one took a little tapping from rubber mallet). I only got the front two done cause the back are gonna be a little more tricky to Sawzall. But there is so much more clearance. Here's the pics.
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I like those beams. I hadn't seen them before. I think your wheel back spacing is what required the use of aftermarket intrusion beams. A 0 offset (4.75" back spacing) sticks the wheel out pretty good thus creating a larger turning arc and requiring more room.
 
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FocoRanger

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I like those beams. I hadn't seen them before. I think your wheel back spacing is what required the use of aftermarket intrusion beams. A 0 offset (4.75" back spacing) sticks the wheel out pretty good thus creating a larger turning arc and requiring more room.
Yeah i definitely didn't think it would stick them out that far, but oh well!
 
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FocoRanger

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Got the rear ones on and man was that a pain in the butt. Did some unholy things that will surely void my warranty, but then again doing anything to a vehicle these days voids your warranty.
Got about a pennys worth of space between the rear beams and the tire now. Overall process was straight forward, but pretty expensive seeing how I went through six $15 dollar Sawzall blades.
20201206_131720.jpg

Before and after of the rears.
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Langwilliams

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Did you try to loosen the bolts an push the beams away from the tires an tighten them down first? I read sometimes you can squeeze a little clearance that way.

Looks like you did a very nice/clean job cutting.
 
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FocoRanger

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Did you try to loosen the bolts an push the beams away from the tires an tighten them down first? I read sometimes you can squeeze a little clearance that way.

Looks like you did a very nice/clean job cutting.
Based on how much the rubbed, and the fact that I want to take this overlanding eventually, I never tried it and just opted to get aftermarket intrusion beams.
 

AutobotXJ

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I’m curious to see how much your tires stick out past your fenders. Can you take a head on pic? I wish ford designed their crash bars to allow more tire/rim options. It shouldn’t have been a surprise that people will want to lift and install bigger tires!
 
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FocoRanger

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I’m curious to see how much your tires stick out past your fenders. Can you take a head on pic? I wish ford designed their crash bars to allow more tire/rim options. It shouldn’t have been a surprise that people will want to lift and install bigger tires!
They stick out quite a bit. A little more than I had expected. Not sure if ill get fender flares, I like the paint matched ones, but not sure if its super worth it since they're pretty spendy.
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AutobotXJ

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They stick out quite a bit. A little more than I had expected. Not sure if ill get fender flares, I like the paint matched ones, but not sure if its super worth it since they're pretty spendy.
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Thanks for the pics. That does look far out- a bit too much for me too, so at least I have a better idea of what kind of offset I want when I start changing the tires and wheels.
 
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FocoRanger

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Thanks for the pics. That does look far out- a bit too much for me too, so at least I have a better idea of what kind of offset I want when I start changing the tires and wheels.
Mine is 4.75" backspacing with 0mm offset for reference. I'd say 3.5 inches of backstage or some offset if its more is definitely necessary.
 

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Got the rear ones on and man was that a pain in the butt. Did some unholy things that will surely void my warranty, but then again doing anything to a vehicle these days voids your warranty.
Got about a pennys worth of space between the rear beams and the tire now. Overall process was straight forward, but pretty expensive seeing how I went through six $15 dollar Sawzall blades.
20201206_131720.jpg

Before and after of the rears.
20201206_145006.jpg
20201206_145057.jpg
i used both a sawsall and angle grinder to cut out factory Intrusion Beams. Yes. GIANT PITA. Ford put on the beams THEN but the body on.
 

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Got the rear ones on and man was that a pain in the butt. Did some unholy things that will surely void my warranty, but then again doing anything to a vehicle these days voids your warranty.
Got about a pennys worth of space between the rear beams and the tire now. Overall process was straight forward, but pretty expensive seeing how I went through six $15 dollar Sawzall blades.
20201206_131720.jpg

Before and after of the rears.
20201206_145006.jpg
20201206_145057.jpg
Did you have to remove the fender line and that bit of plastic before sawing the crash bars off? I'm curious since I ordered the exact same intrusion beams recently. Were you able to fit the new rear intrusion beams with everything put back together already?
 
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FocoRanger

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Did you have to remove the fender line and that bit of plastic before sawing the crash bars off? I'm curious since I ordered the exact same intrusion beams recently. Were you able to fit the new rear intrusion beams with everything put back together already?
No I had to cut the plastic crash plate things on the rear ones. The outer most bolt hits them. I've already done enough to void my warranty so I wasn't worried about cutting some of the plastic away to save me from having to take apart the entire wheelwell. Here's some pics of the damage...
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Not my proudest hack job, but it got the job done.
 

OFC Ranger

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I actually removed my bars completely in-tact and yes to remove the rear ones you have to chop the plastic block behind the lining as well as trim some of the metal fender behind the lining (very little) to slide them out. Once the liner is re-installed you can't tell.
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