RedlandRanger
Moderator
Thank you for the follow up. Too bad it requires the IDS software to program - at least you know now.I spoke with the service manager when I picked up my tailgate dampener the other day, she told me that programming must be done via the type "C" method, the other types will not work. Another employee in sales there wanted to do the exact same as me, mount the pad to the inside of the fuel filler door on a Ranger he had bought for his son. She said that she personally attempted the procedures in types A&B and the that the vehicle would not recognize the pad, using the IDS program is the only way for it to be programmed.
As it turns out, I had worked with her sister some years ago when I worked at a dealership, so I don't think that she would lie to me. She even offered me the company's employee rate for programming the device, which coupled with the price of that pad, does not warrant my very occasional use for the device.
The parts department did cut me a conventional steel key just for unlocking the door for a paltry $15, I'll store this key in a HitchSafe vault (as other members had suggested) of which I ordered online last night.
Thus ends my saga of the wireless keyless entry pad...time to move on.
So you are going to leave your fob in the truck and put the cut key in the hitch safe? I just put the fob in there. As long as I don't keep the keyring on it, it fits fine.
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