Ranger Fender vent lighting

[Frenchy]

Just picked up a new 21 Tremor, I have a big list of upgrades but I thought I would start here first.

Just curious what length of light strips did you get? Better yet a link to what you bought would be great

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[Higgy]

Just curious what length of light strips did you get? Better yet a link to what you bought would be great

Bought a roll weather proof LEDS from Amazon.

ALITOVE 16.4ft 5050 Blue LED... https://www.amazon.ca/dp/B07MXVRSR9?ref=ppx_pop_mob_ap_share

 

[canyonslicker]

A red, white and blue sequence would be nice.

Is just straight wires or is there anything additional?

 

[JDowns]

I get what you’re saying, and I do appreciate your candid response. I’ve worked with low voltage wire most of my life. If it fails I will make a proper splice but at this time I wasn’t prepared to make a cut if I didn’t have too. I sealed the connector with liquid electrical tape which should hold it in place.
The plan is to black out the marker lights someday soon and one day if they stop working that’s ok too, I don’t really need them and besides they take away from my awesome new LEDS.

Just a word of caution and I don't mean to be negative.

Your tapping into a circuit that is controlled by the BCM (Body Control Module). It is a non fused circuit, instead it is monitored and controlled by FET's. If that circuit were to fail the BCM maintains a cumulative counter for every fault. If the circuit reaches a certain count, another fault (DTC) is triggered (U####) and the circuit is permanently disabled until a BCM reset can be performed by the dealer / technician after a self test is performed to ensure the circuit is good. Certain DTC's cannot be reset and a new BCM is required ( I believe a U3000 is such a scenario).

In addition if a dealer were to see that the circuit was tapped into they can deny a warranty claim since it was a aftermarket part that could have caused the issue.

As I've said before these front markers get tapped into by many many people and never have an issue. But when tapping into these circuits I would make sure that the tap is secure and of a quality connection, not only to avoid any long term and costly issues but any possible warranty issues.

 

[Higgy]

A red, white and blue sequence would be nice.

Is just straight wires or is there anything additional?

You need the 5m led strips. You have to solder the leads to it. For Red, White and Blue you could put the three strips together. It would be tight.
The fender vent on the F150 would fit better.

 

[canyonslicker]

You need the 5m led strips. You have to solder the leads to it. For Red, White and Blue you could put the three strips together. It would be tight.
The fender vent on the F150 would fit better.

It’s just the 3 led cut pattern, I just want 1 each led. It would look great on my blacked out lariat badge. Being a rapid red just reds would look great too.. I may go that route..

 

[canyonslicker]

Oh hell, I’m doing red..

Phil fyi, I have access to high end aerospace splices so it will be done right!!! Just a few samples from my supplier and I will be set…

 

[Jason B]

That looks nice. I've never noticed, but does the side marker (and your vent lighting) blink with the turn signals?

 

[P. A. Schilke]

I get what you’re saying, and I do appreciate your candid response. I’ve worked with low voltage wire most of my life. If it fails I will make a proper splice but at this time I wasn’t prepared to make a cut if I didn’t have too. I sealed the connector with liquid electrical tape which should hold it in place.
The plan is to black out the marker lights someday soon and one day if they stop working that’s ok too, I don’t really need them and besides they take away from my awesome new LEDS.

Hi Jerry,

I got into a one sided firefight with a 3M manager who had Scotchlocs under him...spewing 4 letter words...very unprofessional. I told him I was not going to argue with him but send Ford's electrical connector tests required for product development...If he could show Scotchlocs could meet these requirements then I would rescind my claim. About a week later I got a terse response from him that Scotchloc could not meet Ford's requirements...

This all came about as we held technical forums at all off road races for all Ford teams, and one of the first was on electrical system integrity, hosted by Rey Chem. 75% of all Ford Racetrucks DNF'd due to electrical system failures. I told the group that Scotchlocs had no place on a racetruck or street vehicle for that matter. Word got back to 3M and created the firestorm.

The forum worked and we signifantly reduced Ford Truck DNFs...

best,
Phil

 

[Higgy]

That looks nice. I've never noticed, but does the side marker (and your vent lighting) blink with the turn signals?

No they stay on, there is another post in this forum that made his flash with the turn signal.

 

[Apples]

You can't do this in New Mexico either. Blue anything is a no no. Local guys who decided that blue headlights looked cool, soon found out the $250 fine wasn't worth the effort.

 

[Frenchy]

I will agree that the blue lights cant happen in the US but amber lights as a marker/accent light wont be an issue

 

[Fawnbuster]

Very nice...

Nice Sid, have a link?

 

[Higgy]

Hi Jerry,

I got into a one sided firefight with a 3M manager who had Scotchlocs under him...spewing 4 letter words...very unprofessional. I told him I was not going to argue with him but send Ford's electrical connector tests required for product development...If he could show Scotchlocs could meet these requirements then I would rescind my claim. About a week later I got a terse response from him that Scotchloc could not meet Ford's requirements...

This all came about as we held technical forums at all off road races for all Ford teams, and one of the first was on electrical system integrity, hosted by Rey Chem. 75% of all Ford Racetrucks DNF'd due to electrical system failures. I told the group that Scotchlocs had no place on a racetruck or street vehicle for that matter. Word got back to 3M and created the firestorm.

The forum worked and we signifantly reduced Ford Truck DNFs...

best,
Phil

Thanks Phil,
I’ve decided to wire the light to an up fitter switch inside the cab that’s fused. In hindsight I can see the point of friction causing the strands to break. I’m sure it’ll take a while as I will mostly use the truck for a daily driver but I do a appreciate your comments and should play it safe.
If you have an alternative to tapping a single wire please shoot me a link. The rest of my add ons will be with the up fitter switches.

Jerry

 

[diesel924]

I get what you’re saying, and I do appreciate your candid response. I’ve worked with low voltage wire most of my life. If it fails I will make a proper splice but at this time I wasn’t prepared to make a cut if I didn’t have too. I sealed the connector with liquid electrical tape which should hold it in place.
The plan is to black out the marker lights someday soon and one day if they stop working that’s ok too, I don’t really need them and besides they take away from my awesome new LEDS.

This Scotch-Lock splice will fail, and it will be corrosion that kills it. The thing is, the wire that you compromised with this thing is going to wick that corrosion from one end of the wire to the other. Instead of bright shiny copper strands, they will be brown and crusty all the way to the connectors, and that might be several feet away. If you fix it now properly, that wire may have a chance.

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