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OFC Ranger

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@Msfitoy we've spoken before, but I have another request.

Do you have an online bank you can acquire things as simple as font programming to print letters?

In near future I am going to be shaving my fender vent badging down and I'd prefer some raised plastic letters/numbers than going vinyl.

We are talking 5 letters and 1 number if done separately. Or 4 letters, one space, one letter, one number if printed as one single piece.

1" tall, about 4" long, and wouldn't need more than say a quarter inch in thickness. Probably a kids project in ease to a serious printer hobbiest.
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Msfitoy

Msfitoy

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Just got my Ranger 6 months ago, and I loved your setup.
I've bought the Raptor Grill from Amazon. The connection to the lights isn't like the one from Stage3, its just exposed black and red wire. I see where you tapped on the side marker using the Green/Orange wire. But which ground bolt did you use? I didn't want to mess up my electricals if I use the wrong bolt as a ground.
There's a ground bolt in front of the air box if you look down...that's the one I used...also the negative battery post is always failsafe...I have at least 4 grounding wires there...
 
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@Msfitoy we've spoken before, but I have another request.

Do you have an online bank you can acquire things as simple as font programming to print letters?

In near future I am going to be shaving my fender vent badging down and I'd prefer some raised plastic letters/numbers than going vinyl.

We are talking 5 letters and 1 number if done separately. Or 4 letters, one space, one letter, one number if printed as one single piece.

1" tall, about 4" long, and wouldn't need more than say a quarter inch in thickness. Probably a kids project in ease to a serious printer hobbiest.
Hi Jack...I'm not aware of any...but then again, for anything custom I always rely on my own CAD data...if I were doing lettering for printing, I would start from scratch...show me what you're thinking and I can better asses what it would take...probably easy job as long as they're flat...
 

OFC Ranger

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Hi Jack...I'm not aware of any...but then again, for anything custom I always rely on my own CAD data...if I were doing lettering for printing, I would start from scratch...show me what you're thinking and I can better asses what it would take...probably easy job as long as they're flat...
Yup flat, just raised a quarter inch to give some depth. I'll get back to you this evening.
 

Gizmokid2005

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Yup flat, just raised a quarter inch to give some depth. I'll get back to you this evening.
If you're looking for someone to do printing for you, there's a few places that do it assuming you have files to print, I've used Shapeways a few times, just throwing that out there.
 


NewRanger009

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There's a ground bolt in front of the air box if you look down...that's the one I used...also the negative battery post is always failsafe...I have at least 4 grounding wires there...
Perfect, thank you! I will post some pictures tomorrow.
 
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Msfitoy

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Perfect, thank you! I will post some pictures tomorrow.
You can see at least two ground (yellow/blue)...there's probably another one under these two lol...
IMG_7414.webp
 
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Msfitoy

Msfitoy

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Pre-op ready...tomorrow, after the trans fluid has cooled to room temp, I'll pump the sump empty...then pull the pan and let the trans continue to drain over night...Friday, new filter to be installed...I don't anticipate that all 12 quarts will come out so my supply should be more than enough...

IMG_8102.JPG
 

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Pre-op ready...tomorrow, after the trans fluid has cooled to room temp, I'll pump the sump empty...then pull the pan and let the trans continue to drain over night...Friday, new filter to be installed...I don't anticipate that all 12 quarts will come out so my supply should be more than enough...

IMG_8102.webp
Ohhhhh, ohhhhhhh,....

Que the dramatic surprise music when next morning you walk into a 5 qt drain pan overflow that has had time to seek everything but the garage door opening...??
 
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Msfitoy

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Hard to believe there're people out there trying to remove a transmission sump full of dirty fluid...

Belly of the beast...after pumping out, the pan came down without spilling a drop...

IMG_8104.webp
IMG_8108.JPG


Old versus new...note the reusable round intake seal in the middle...

IMG_8111.webp


Careful when removing the pan as not to damage the reusable gasket...

IMG_8110.webp


Think I'll wait over night and see how much more comes out...

IMG_8109.JPG


Paper paint tarp with plastic backing is smart...

IMG_8106.webp
 

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Now the stance is right...added four 1.25" spacers to each corner to fill out the Air Design 2" flare extensions...starting from +55 to +20 wheel offset added 1.4" to each side adding around 2.5" total...now with this addition total gain is near 5.5" in track width......I should've started with a -12 wheel offset and not need the spacers but I had no idea this would be where I end up ?
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BTW...I found a third technique to torque front wheel spacer while they're up in the air...first is have someone hold the brakes...second is the pry bar through studs against the floor...my method was to put the truck into 4 low...when I jacked one side to install/torque the spacers, the hub is locked by they other wheel on the ground... :)

Hey Sid, long time listener, first time caller - your thread motivated me to do some mods and get a little creative.

Did you have to do some trimming in the front wheel well / bumper when you went with different wheel and spacer combo?
 
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Msfitoy

Msfitoy

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Hey Sid, long time listener, first time caller - your thread motivated me to do some mods and get a little creative.

Did you have to do some trimming in the front wheel well / bumper when you went with different wheel and spacer combo?
Hi Jake...I didn't need to trim wheel well/bumper but both front and rear crash bars needed to be removed...I explained that process somewhere in this thread...
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