One Piece Driveshaft

[Rotortech]

This was an ongoing problem for me, with both the stock driveshaft, and then again with the TW driveshaft. Switching to the correct calcium sulfonate grease in the slip yoke ended the issue for me. Going on a few weeks now since the grease change, and not even the slightest hint of start stop thump. Smooth as butter. (And my commute is lots of stopping and starting) Now I'm totally convinced it was the binding slip yoke I was feeling.

Try putting the transmission in neutral the the next time you're rolling to a stop. This made my thump when stopping disappear. My guess is that there is less twisting force on the driveshaft while braking to a stop in neutral, so the splines are more free to slip as the rear suspension lifts, then settles during the stop.

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[Superspirit]

This was an ongoing problem for me, with both the stock driveshaft, and then again with the TW driveshaft. Switching to the correct calcium sulfonate grease in the slip yoke ended the issue for me. Going on a few weeks now since the grease change, and not even the slightest hint of start stop thump. Smooth as butter. (And my commute is lots of stopping and starting) Now I'm totally convinced it was the binding slip yoke I was feeling.

Try putting the transmission in neutral the the next time you're rolling to a stop. This made my thump when stopping disappear. My guess is that there is less twisting force on the driveshaft while braking to a stop in neutral, so the splines are more free to slip as the rear suspension lifts, then settles during the stop.

I've tried nuetral, sport and tow mode. None of these have had an effect. I'm a retired ase master tech so I've tried all but changing the grease

 

[EJH]

This was an ongoing problem for me, with both the stock driveshaft, and then again with the TW driveshaft. Switching to the correct calcium sulfonate grease in the slip yoke ended the issue for me. Going on a few weeks now since the grease change, and not even the slightest hint of start stop thump. Smooth as butter. (And my commute is lots of stopping and starting) Now I'm totally convinced it was the binding slip yoke I was feeling.

Try putting the transmission in neutral the the next time you're rolling to a stop. This made my thump when stopping disappear. My guess is that there is less twisting force on the driveshaft while braking to a stop in neutral, so the splines are more free to slip as the rear suspension lifts, then settles during the stop.

I will be lubing again with the grease you linked above. I am just not sure I will bother until next spring. I'm also in Oregon and we only have a short while until temps drop enough for the bump to go away until April or so.

 

[EJH]

I had my Ranger at the dealer today for the bump on stop/start, with kind of mixed results. Some history first:

• I have had the bump on stop start since new. The It was worse when warm.
• Last June I lubed the driveshaft spline joint with Ford’s white single use pouch grease, which helped about 50% or more, especially with the bump when stopping, not as much with the clunk feeling pulling away.
• I recently upgraded to full Fox 2.0 (added front coilovers), which helped reduce the bump on stop more, by reducing overall body motion front to back.

The dealer would not re-lube the spline for me. They reset the transmission adaptive tables. I debated and said it was unlikely to have fixed anything. I ended up having the service manager ride along with me. He was cooperative and knowledgeable, actually a nice guy.

• The thump/bump when I pull away (pushing the gas pedal) seems gone. This could have been a hard shift in the transmission or something tranny related? I can accept the adaptive transmission reset helped here. This feeling pulling away has always felt slightly different than the bump on stopping. It felt more like a gear dropping.
• The thump/bump on stop is still there, at the same level is was before.
  • The service manager, claims this is normal, and not the spline joint. He says it is the little help leaf spring under the main leaf spring making contact when stopping. See my pictures below. A few things he asked me to confirm his theory:
    • Is the bump worse with lighter loads – Yes. I has just removed my RTT two days earlier and the stop bump got more pronounced.
    • Is the bump mostly gone when I have a heavy load – Yes. He says that is because the leaf springs are resting on the helper spring pad 100% of the time.
    • Is the bump worse stopping on downhill instead of uphill – Yes.

The service manager does not disagree that I may have had a binding spline joint on the driveshaft, but I lubed that. What I have been thinking was still a sticky spline joint since my lube job he claims is the rear suspension leaf springs contacting that helper leaf pad. He says all trucks with leaf springs can do this. He says a blinding/sticky spline joint has a different feeling, and you will notice it shifting between reverse and drive.

Like I start off saying, a mixed bag ?

I’m also curious if what I feel when stopping will change as the weather gets cooler . Lately, I am not noticing a difference at 60’F or 90’F. I wonder if my spline joint I lubed was temperature dependent and the current bump on stop may have always been there, but since it is less that it used to be, maybe it never bothered me during the winter. I won’t know until things cool off consistently here (~2 months from now).

In any case, I plan to re-lube the spline with calcium sulfonate grease next time, out of curiosity. I’d love to try a TW one-piece driveshaft also, just to compare, but not sure I want to spend $700 just for an experiment.

Regarding the rear suspension: If it really is the leaf springs bumping that helper spring, I’m wondering if something like a Roadmaster Active Suspension would lessen the bump I feel on stop? The RAS is basically a helper spring that keeps the leaf springs more extended and taut. I have been debating installed these to help with towing my trailer and hauling heavy loads anyway.

Quick update to this. I relubed my spline with CS Moly and all hints of a bump on stop and start are gone. So the dealer was full of sh!t.

 

[quangdog]

So the dealer was full of sh!t.

I'm shocked!

 

[COblue]

Installed the TW one piece shaft a week ago and saw a huge improvement in drive line vibrations. Shaking at 10mph is gone and above 70mph is much better, but it's still not completely smooth. Before the new driveshaft it was horrible above 70.

I'll have the tires balanced (Tremor sized Gen Grabber A/T), but I'm wondering if there's anything with the pinion angle or something else that might be causing it? I have a Fox 2.0 level up front with OME springs and BDS shackles in the rear (should be 2.5" rear lift) fwiw.

It's only the high speed vibrations that still exist.

I really wanna keep this truck, but....

 

[TJC]

Installed the TW one piece shaft a week ago and saw a huge improvement in drive line vibrations. Shaking at 10mph is gone and above 70mph is much better, but it's still not completely smooth. Before the new driveshaft it was horrible above 70.

I'll have the tires balanced (Tremor sized Gen Grabber A/T), but I'm wondering if there's anything with the pinion angle or something else that might be causing it? I have a Fox 2.0 level up front with OME springs and BDS shackles in the rear (should be 2.5" rear lift) fwiw.

It's only the high speed vibrations that still exist.

I really wanna keep this truck, but....

Ideally the angles should be identical. My truck has not been leveled, and doesn't exhibit any roughness. I have the a Klein Digital Angle Gauge, but didn't feel the need to use it to dial it in closer.

It would probably be worth the effort to check and then shim it close to 0, I think Ford specifies a 5 degree windows, but the closer the better.

 

[Whiplash]

I adjusted my Pinon angle down 5° after installing the T.Woods One pc...was trying for a 1° room for axle wrap..After installing the shims thick end forward on the axle perch to rotate the pinion angle downward , I ended up with 0.4° lower Pinon flange angle from parallel to the Transfer case output flange angle... I am on 3.0" front lift / 1.0" rear spring lift (ICON )....Any time you add or subtract rear lift, adjusting the Pinon angle will need to be checked..

 

[COblue]

Appreciate both the responses, first time lifting a truck so mainly learning as I go.

What shims are you guys using for this? The ones sold by Tom Woods or?

I don't remember the stock ones being angled at all

 

[Whiplash]

Appreciate both the responses, first time lifting a truck so mainly learning as I go.

What shims are you guys using for this? The ones sold by Tom Woods or?

I don't remember the stock ones being angled at all

I used the wedge shaped shims that go under leaf spring and rest on top of axle..
Installing with the thick end of wedge forward will rotate Pinon angle lower...
I went with the shims milled from billet because I like to occasionally drive fast in the desert...also I recommend an upgrade
in U-bolts and hardware, the mounting kit I got with my ICON leafsprings is very robust compared to stock...

 

[COblue]

Looks like the pinion was 6.8° and the transfer case was 9.8°.

Added 3° shims and now it's almost perfect above 70 mph. Here's the OSHA approved install setup, leafs were unbolted in this pic just fyi?

Note to those looking for longer leaf center bolts, a 3/8ths bolt will work in place of the 10mm OEM bolt. Local spring shop worker was very surprised it's a metric, made in Dearborn truck ?

Thanks Whiplash and TJC for helping a newb out ?

 

[COblue]

Well after a long road trip it still vibrates like a motherfucker above 75. Maybe slightly better than before. Maybe the wheels are outta balance but idk, this shit sucks. I'll take it in for a balance and hope that's it, but I highly doubt from the feeling I have

Angles should be aligned, spacer added thick side towards the front, and within spec so idk. Should've got a tundra smh. Might be the last Furd product I buy

 

[Stevedbvik1]

Well after a long road trip it still vibrates like a motherfucker above 75. Maybe slightly better than before. Maybe the wheels are outta balance but idk, this shit sucks. I'll take it in for a balance and hope that's it, but I highly doubt from the feeling I have

Angles should be aligned, spacer added thick side towards the front, and within spec so idk. Should've got a tundra smh. Might be the last Furd product I buy

RoadForce balance?

 

[COblue]

RoadForce balance?

Never had it done, but I'll give that a shot. Never had to get the wheels balanced before, but perhaps used cars were already dialed in.

I've never had a problem like this on any vehicle before, tires, drive line, etc and just think it's insane how many people have the issue (lift or no lift)

 

[TJC]

I have seen lifted trucks of all models with the issue, but I have never seen the problem in stock trucks before, until my 2020 Ranger. The TW driveshaft corrected my stock trucks problem.

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