One Piece Driveshaft

[navsnipe]

My very non scientific "cram stuff in there till it stops" carrier bearing experiment seems to indicate that for ME , and MY TRUCK ONLY , that about 50% less flex than factory is the sweet spot , before when I had it solid , downhill had issues that I didn't notice before , I softened it up and all seems good now , as an added bonus, and I just may have jinxed it , my stoplight "bump " , which I assumed was the slip joint, seems to have disappeared since I started messing with it , not sure why on that but I'll take it , again , non scientific, unloaded truck , not pulling anything, maybe it will be terrible under those circumstances, maybe my actual carrier bearing will go bad now and start screaming, no idea ...

@Shawn at Tom Wood's
Do you know of something that could be mixed and poured in there that would still have some flex to it?
Or maybe if too stiff a series of holes could be drilled around it to give more flex ? I can't imagine anything I cram in there will stay long term , the electric cord was wiggling out a little with only about 20 miles on it , I assume the hose I have in there now will also ...

You could probably make a mold out of tin foil and fill it with silicone caulk. The silicone should give you the flex you're looking for. Either that or raid a plastic surgeon's trash bin for some silicone...

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[NotBudule]

liquid latex?

I'm not sure , never used or have needed anything like that , until now...

 

[NotBudule]

You could probably make a mold out of tin foil and fill it with silicone caulk. The silicone should give you the flex you're looking for. Either that or raid a plastic surgeon's trash bin for some silicone...

Silicone was my thoughts also , I may look for a junkyard shaft so I could fill it and let it cure , maybe fill 1/4 of the way and test , then another 1/4, maybe I can glue this rubber hose in there and it will stay ,or some kind of retainer , maybe , hate to take it off if I don't have to ...

 

[TJC]

I think what is important is that Shawn and you are exploring the possibilities and as result we are gaining an understanding (however limited) about the issue, and the solutions that are available to alleviate the problem.

There is more than one way to skin a cat. I went the 1 piece driveshaft route. The correction of the center bearing is another route that appears to be a viable option. I applaud you for the effort. You are helping not only yourself, but cutting a path for everyone else suffering from this issue.

-T

 

[Shawn at Tom Wood's]

@Shawn at Tom Wood's
Do you know of something that could be mixed and poured in there that would still have some flex to it?
Or maybe if too stiff a series of holes could be drilled around it to give more flex ? I can't imagine anything I cram in there will stay long term , the electric cord was wiggling out a little with only about 20 miles on it , I assume the hose I have in there now will also ...
[/QUOTE]

Here's what I have on order https://www.alumilite.com/resins/flex-urethane-20/. It has a shore hardness of A 20, which is apparently pretty soft https://www.aeromarineproducts.com/durometer-shore-hardness-scale/.

I figured it would be best to start soft as the change caused simply by filling the cavity in the rubber mount will probably be pretty dramatic by itself. Also, I wanted something flexible enough that you guys can hopefully squeeze it into your stock bearing mount without having to remove the shaft. I've never cast polymers before but here's my plan. I'm going to pour the urethane directly into the bushing cavity on my stock shaft, prepping the rubber with a release agent first. Then I'll pop that out and use that as the sample from which I'll make some negative impression molds, maybe also out of urethane, maybe out of plaster, maybe both. Once I have that negative impression mold, I'll use that to make a few more urethane bushing inserts. Hopefully this will result in a perfect fit, as long as your stock rubber bushings all have the same shape and profile as the one I have here. I'm sort of a perfectionist when it comes to making things so I hope to end up with something that looks and fits good. I think the hardness of the material will be an important factor (one for which I am just making a guess), but I also think that the uniformity of contact with the stock bushing will be important, probably more important. That's what I'm hoping to achieve. That's also why I think a direct pour in, to your stock shaft, is the best way to test this idea. Though that would make it harder to experiment with different density materials. If it seems like the material I'm using is too soft, I may try making a few with a harder urethane or I may offer to give my molds to someone else who wants to take it from there.

 

[RedDakooter05]

Shawn really knows how the shaft works.

 

[NotBudule]

I think what is important is that Shawn and you are exploring the possibilities and as result we are gaining an understanding (however limited) about the issue, and the solutions that are available to alleviate the problem.

There is more than one way to skin a cat. I went the 1 piece driveshaft route. The correction of the center bearing is another route that appears to be a viable option. I applaud you for the effort. You are helping not only yourself, but cutting a path for everyone else suffering from this issue.

-T

The one piece would be my first choice for sure , one and done , but my wife is ready to kill me over the credit card , NO WAY I could justify a new drive shaft on a new truck and not end up dead , or even worse , still alive and able to hear ...

 

[TJC]

The one piece would be my first choice for sure , one and done , but my wife is ready to kill me over the credit card , NO WAY I could justify a new drive shaft on a new truck and not end up dead , or even worse , still alive and able to hear ...

That is so Funny! My wife is the one who insisted that I go the driveshaft route! I made the same argument that your wife is making to you!

I told her it is time to cut our losses and move on.

Her reply ' We've already invested $35K in this endeavor, if $700 fixes it, it is worth the trouble. You want to go through the hassle of selling and buying another truck? And possibly losing even more $$.

Bottom line - She talked me in to option 4!

I gave her the options:

1. Live with it - she wasn't having it
2. Keep going back to Ford - beating your head against the wall is insanity
3. Sell the truck - this was her 2nd choice
4. Buy the driveshaft and fix it. Her 1st choice

 

[LoneRNGR]

im interested also as mine is clunking from somewhere and that seems to be the bad guy , feels like i get tapped in the rear at a stoplight sometimes , i guess i should try lubing the slip joint first

Yes. Lube the joint if it is bothering you. Link to the thread and video is https://www.ranger5g.com/forum/threads/how-to-lubricate-your-driveshaft-slip-joint.16648/

 

[D Fresh]

Is there PM on our drive shaft? Most vehicles I've driven have 'permanently lubricated' joints with no way to give them a squirt. I think it's time I crawl under my truck and get familiar with the underside.

I do not believe there is. But even if "permanently" lubricated, a sealed U-joint still needs to be inspected periodically and replaced if bad.

I was being a bit argumentative and trying to point out that driveshaft failure is not a common thing, nor was it really ever. And that while even back in the day when vehicles didn't have "permanently" lubricated joints it wasn't common, most of the few failures were most assuredly maintenance related.

 

[Dr3wDrop]

I do not believe there is. But even if "permanently" lubricated, a sealed U-joint still needs to be inspected periodically and replaced if bad.

I was being a bit argumentative and trying to point out that driveshaft failure is not a common thing, nor was it really ever. And that while even back in the day when vehicles didn't have "permanently" lubricated joints it wasn't common, most of the few failures were most assuredly maintenance related.

When I was in High School way back when, my Jeep YJ had a rear drive shaft U-joint failure. Went to step on the gas out of the Taco Bell drive-thru and I felt a WHACK under my seat as it came up and smacked the underside of the tub. Was a pretty easy fix though.

 

[TJC]

I do not believe there is. But even if "permanently" lubricated, a sealed U-joint still needs to be inspected periodically and replaced if bad.
...
...
And that while even back in the day when vehicles didn't have "permanently" lubricated joints it wasn't common, most of the few failures were most assuredly maintenance related.

When I had the Jasper Engine and Transmission installed in my 2005 Ranger, I had the mechanic inspect the driveshaft (and a lot of other stuff too). He told me the driveshaft was fine.

But afterwards, going off throttle at 65mph down to 50mph I had a slight to moderate vibration in the entire drive train. It was high frequency, and I felt it in the steering wheel, the gas pedal, and in the seat. At 49mph everything was smooth. I first thought it was the engine running rough as I did not change out the injectors, and I suspected one or two of them were leaking into the cylinder. I cleaned the injectors and the engine ran smooth, but the vibration was still there. My suspicions moved to the driveshaft, and I ordered a replacement, installed it, and sure enough the vibration ceased.

Afterwards I inspected the original driveshaft and the u-joints movements are not rough at all. But they did move relatively easy. I can see why the mechanic would say they were fine. These were sealed units and lasted 150K miles.

I did not check for wear of the spline teeth (haven't removed the dust cover yet). If they stay dry too long they will wear causing radial slop in the drivetrain, as the teeth no longer fit tightly on the input shaft or slip joint.

 

[TJC]

When I was in High School way back when, my Jeep YJ had a rear drive shaft U-joint failure. Went to step on the gas out of the Taco Bell drive-thru and I felt a WHACK under my seat as it came up and smacked the underside of the tub. Was a pretty easy fix though.

Was it the front or back u-joint? Sounds like front one.

 

[D Fresh]

When I was in High School way back when, my Jeep YJ had a rear drive shaft U-joint failure. Went to step on the gas out of the Taco Bell drive-thru and I felt a WHACK under my seat as it came up and smacked the underside of the tub. Was a pretty easy fix though.

Yeah, in a YJ that front one is close.

Luckily the Ujoints in our YJ were done last winter when we did everything else prepping it for my kid to drive.

When I had the Jasper Engine and Transmission installed in my 2005 Ranger, I had the mechanic inspect the driveshaft (and a lot of other stuff too). He told me the driveshaft was fine.

But afterwards, going off throttle at 65mph down to 50mph I had a slight to moderate vibration in the entire drive train. It was high frequency, and I felt it in the steering wheel, the gas pedal, and in the seat. At 49mph everything was smooth. I first thought it was the engine running rough as I did not change out the injectors, and I suspected one or two of them were leaking into the cylinder. I cleaned the injectors and the engine ran smooth, but the vibration was still there. My suspicions moved to the driveshaft, and I ordered a replacement, installed it, and sure enough the vibration ceased.

Afterwards I inspected the original driveshaft and the u-joints movements are not rough at all. But they did move relatively easy. I can see why the mechanic would say they were fine. These were sealed units and lasted 150K miles.

I did not check for wear of the spline teeth (haven't removed the dust cover yet). If they stay dry too long they will wear causing radial slop in the drivetrain, as the teeth no longer fit tightly on the input shaft or slip joint.

Glad you caught it before major problems. Sounds like you were pretty on top of the maintenance on that rig. Which kind of leads credence to my point.

Wonder what happened with that one? Impact damage anywhere? This was the factory driveshaft?

Good point about the slip joint lube. And a good reminder to me. Thank you.

 

[Dr3wDrop]

Was it the front or back u-joint? Sounds like front one.

It was the back right at the rear diff.

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