Oil Catch Can. Yes or No?

[Dereku]

I got the ford one. Piece of cake to install. Upr is supposed to be better. But something is better than nothing I guess. Plus I had ford points left over from blowing my tranny…. I mean transmission.

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[JohnnyO]

I haven't bothered. 1) I use synthetic oil and change it religiously every 5k and 2) Residue in the catch cans seems to be more of a problem with people who make a lot of short trips, which isn't me. I put on 20k a year and almost to 100k and it runs fine.

 

[Dereku]

I haven't bothered. 1) I use synthetic oil and change it religiously every 5k and 2) Residue in the catch cans seems to be more of a problem with people who make a lot of short trips, which isn't me. I put on 20k a year and almost to 100k and it runs fine.

I am a highway guy too. 2021 with 100k. Mine still fills up pretty good. Just not as fast as the city only folks. And im synthetic only as well.

 

[ScarzRanger21]

Most of my driving is highway but also a mix of city. I’ll look into it a bit before deciding.

 

[ppfd]

72 k no catch can

Most my vehicles I run well over a 100k, never had one on any of my rides

 

[Dereku]

72 k no catch can

Most my vehicles I run well over a 100k, never had one on any of my rides

I am sorry but 100k is no longer the measurement for reliability. 250-300k with no issues is when it is impressive.

 

[ppfd]

I am sorry but 100k is no longer the measurement for reliability. 250-300k with no issues is when it is impressive.

I can afford a new truck every few years. So I really don't care about the potential benefits or the snake oil of an oil catch system.
I have zero attachment to a vehicle or "run them till the wheels fall off." I do regular maintenance and fix what is needed.

I usually unload a vehicle right around 100 k, this one will be gone with less on it.

 

[Dereku]

I can afford a new truck every few years. So I really don't care about the potential benefits or the snake oil of an oil catch system.
I have zero attachment to a vehicle or "run them till the wheels fall off." I do regular maintenance and fix what is needed.

I usually unload a vehicle right around 100 k, this one will be gone with less on it.

Fair enough. I like to see how far they go. 10-15 years is my limit tho for a daily.

 

[ScarzRanger21]

I am sorry but 100k is no longer the measurement for reliability. 250-300k with no issues is when it is impressive.

I would agree with that. 100k really isn’t that great, considering most makes and manufacturers will make it to that point. I had well over 200k on my old F150 with no issues. That was impressive…

Fair enough. I like to see how far they go. 10-15 years is my limit tho for a daily.

I get attachment issues with my vehicles lol had my last truck for 12 years before I finally let it go. It was getting too beat up using it for work and was starting to have issues that I didn’t want to foot the bill to repair. I still miss that truck though!

 

[ppfd]

No wife, daughter is grown and on her own.
Vehicles are about my only "splurge" in life. Of course I make sure I can afford it prior to buying.

 

[theprinceofsnj]

I'm retired. I'm hoping to make this the last vehicle I have to buy as a daily driver. Along with keeping some of the cost down.

 

[Friday yet?]

plug and play, with a beer in one hand.

Wow! Then I could do it!!! Perfectly within my skill set.

 

[Friday yet?]

I got the ford one. Piece of cake to install. Upr is supposed to be better. But something is better than nothing I guess. Plus I had ford points left over from blowing my tranny…. I mean transmission.

Not judging you. Your life, your business. But I will say, bit TMI for the Ranger forum.

 

[MountainBikeRanger]

The check valves and all the hoses come with the dual valve catch can. UPR also sells a conventional setup that just goes in series between the PCV valve and the intake manifold.

The dual valve setup has a check valve in the line between the catch can and the intake manifold. This valve is open when you are off boost drawing fumes from the crank case through the can to the intake manifold. When you go into boost this check valve closes preventing boost pressure from entering the crankcase. There is another line that goes from the catch can to the low pressure point just Infront of the turbo inlet. This line has a check valve that is closed off boost but opens when you have boost. So that low pressure source at the inlet to the turbo draws the oily fumes from the crankcase through the catch can to the front of the turbo.

I belive I understand. I'm a novice and came from a 300k mi 4.0L Jeep that thrived on neglect and good wishes. But, I just repaired a leaky injector in cylinder 1 and I would like to protect my engine.

Is this correct?
There are two PCV systems: one for boost and one non-boost. The FP catch can only works under boosted conditions (acceleration and load). The dirty side catch cans work under non-boosted conditions (idle, constant speed, non-loaded).
The UPR dual-valve catch can works under both boosted and non-boosted, but is a pain to install on a 2019.

Thank you for taking the time and the crayons to explain this to me.

 

[Racket]

I think someone else posted this Repair Geek vid about catch cans:


What I find that validates the UPR is the capacity (10 ounces) over the small ones he criticized and that the UPR offers the dual vacuum feature which his comments suggest would be a good thing. The whole discussion on separating oil from the system doesn't carry much weight, we've seen in this thread what is captured and kept out of the intake.

The detail he mentions is that the catch cans seem to reduce crankcase pressure which I hadn't thought of - he suggested it would improve gas mileage which I never monitored before and after. I don't know if that's true since in threads here where owners have added a positive pressure vented oil cap they say MPGs decreased.

His video is a little damning of the Mishimoto model - claiming he found a $20 copy of the can on Amazon and with members on this forum complaining about the hose quality that's a disappointment.

I took my UPR apart today (sorry no pics) to check on it - there is evidence of some oil mist through it but the filter media wasn't clogged. Some brake cleaner spruced that up. The Continental hoses they used and billet check valves are in good shape. UPR uses top quality fittings.

The only criticism I would consider is if the condensation indeed freezes in extreme cold.

Our US 5G's have a unique fuel system which actually seems to constrain potential power (can you imagine if we had the dual setup?) which I've heard the 6G has - haven't confirmed that though. It would make the catch can less attractive as a way to keep the intake valves clean.

January 2026 update: the 6G's come with the fuel rail in addition to the DI so that makes things different for those newer trucks vs ours in my view. With temps here in tge Southeast dipping into lows not seen in over ten years emptying that catch can becomes a little urgent in advance.

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