TORQUERULES
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I thought so too, but I am seeing it in all weather.
Doc
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Good with Sea Food !Yummy. Here is 6 months worth of crud. Looks like a layered cake.
Rp930
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No catch can for me. I prefer clear liquor.Yummy. Here is 6 months worth of crud. Looks like a layered cake.
Dr3wDrop
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Anyone know where I can find replacement o-rings cheaper than the UPR site?
https://www.uprproducts.com/oil-catch-can-replacement-o-ring-kit/
https://www.uprproducts.com/oil-catch-can-replacement-o-ring-kit/
sandog
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Jacob
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I saw some post a reply regarding the CC after a tune not catching much. Figured I’d throw my Pennies in it. So 82k miles and into alcohol bottle #2.
back in Nov of 22, I bit the bullet and bought a tuner (bully dog 91 oct). Since then the build up in my can had significantly dropped. I still get the condensation and some carbon but no where near what it was.
For those who are on the fence, go watch the vids of Walnut blasting valves or just the numerous vids mechanics have posted of Ford DI engines and their valves. Worth every penny
back in Nov of 22, I bit the bullet and bought a tuner (bully dog 91 oct). Since then the build up in my can had significantly dropped. I still get the condensation and some carbon but no where near what it was.
For those who are on the fence, go watch the vids of Walnut blasting valves or just the numerous vids mechanics have posted of Ford DI engines and their valves. Worth every penny
dondonbabyraptor
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Anyone willing want to prove their catch can is working with a little test? Looking for a catch can owner near 30-40k miles willing to take off their intake manifold and peek into the intake valves? This is what 36k miles with no catch can looks like. I want to have some additional data for comparisons. I want to answer the long question of, "HOW effective is a catch can in reality and is it worth the effort?"
After walnut blasting
After walnut blasting
dondonbabyraptor
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Some additional info from a user on another forum, hes trying to find me pictures from 6 years ago atm.
"So coming from a focus st and the 3.5 ecoboost world many years ago this was a large problem. In college with my st we did a test of diffrent things and catch cans seemed to do minimal for carbon buildup. The only thing besides walnut blasting we found to work is to run water meth injection which cleaned the valves in 3 gallons so about 2 months and then maintained it. Definitely not for everyone but if your wanting to add some performance to its a great choice"
And someone else told me that is mostly vapor/oil sludge as how wet it is. this is 90k miles of actual carbon build up. Thus, it seems catch can works great for vapor/sludge but not carbon build up.
"So coming from a focus st and the 3.5 ecoboost world many years ago this was a large problem. In college with my st we did a test of diffrent things and catch cans seemed to do minimal for carbon buildup. The only thing besides walnut blasting we found to work is to run water meth injection which cleaned the valves in 3 gallons so about 2 months and then maintained it. Definitely not for everyone but if your wanting to add some performance to its a great choice"
And someone else told me that is mostly vapor/oil sludge as how wet it is. this is 90k miles of actual carbon build up. Thus, it seems catch can works great for vapor/sludge but not carbon build up.
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Racket
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I think there was the suggestion that after so many miles the catch can wouldn't collect as much crap as the engine would be fully broken in. I don't have a pic but at nearly 30K miles mine just puked up a disgusting amount of milkshake. ?
RangerPNW
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With my Focus ST, i ran a couple catch cans on it. I would find it pretty clean during the summer months, but once the weather cooled off i would regularly grab a few ounces of milkshake...The ranger seems to do about the same for me.
TheKracka
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Think oil is another element to factor in regards to oil being recirculated by the PCV system. In my experience I've had best results with Rotella T6 5W-40 in both Ecoboosts I've owned. Any other brand of oil and it reeks of fuel and is diluted to the consistency of water by 3-4000miles. Typically change every 5k, longest interval with RT6 has been around 7800, the oil viscosity seemed typical(thick/tacky), smelled of exhaust, decided to send off a sample to Blackstone and they reported back, forget exact language used, basically everything looked good and try driving "X" miles more.
On another note, has anyone experimented with a breather plate? Not sure how I feel about them, understand the theory, my concerns would be not evacuating gases and pressures in the crankcase fast enough.
https://www.mountuneusa.com/Breather-Plate-Ford-Ecoboost-2-0L-And-2-3L-p/2363-obp-aa.htm
On another note, has anyone experimented with a breather plate? Not sure how I feel about them, understand the theory, my concerns would be not evacuating gases and pressures in the crankcase fast enough.
https://www.mountuneusa.com/Breather-Plate-Ford-Ecoboost-2-0L-And-2-3L-p/2363-obp-aa.htm
TJC
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This is my collected goo from my 2020 Ranger since purchased new in Aug 2020. The last 1800 miles was over this winter including two 600 miles trips. One little rain, the other clear. Temps were ~35F on both trips.
The bottom appears to be oil, the creamy delicious stuff in the center appears to be water/oil mix (a good guess based upon what happens to oil when a headgasket leaks from a water jacket into the oil), top appears to be unburnt fuel (smells like it anyway).
It collects much faster in high humidity cold weather.
I rarely check it in the summer, but buildup is quite fast in the winter. I've had the UPR can fill in a week!
As an aside I replaced the baffle oil O ring with a zip tie (the O ring functions as a retaining ring holding the top baffle plate down against the baffle. The zip tie is also loosening up over time (expanding). I'm going with a stainless steel crimp ring the next time I have it apart. I'll use the retaining ring at the bottom to take it apart to clean it. Why UPR didn't use a retaining clip on the top eludes me. They put the detent on the shaft.
The bottom appears to be oil, the creamy delicious stuff in the center appears to be water/oil mix (a good guess based upon what happens to oil when a headgasket leaks from a water jacket into the oil), top appears to be unburnt fuel (smells like it anyway).
It collects much faster in high humidity cold weather.
I rarely check it in the summer, but buildup is quite fast in the winter. I've had the UPR can fill in a week!
As an aside I replaced the baffle oil O ring with a zip tie (the O ring functions as a retaining ring holding the top baffle plate down against the baffle. The zip tie is also loosening up over time (expanding). I'm going with a stainless steel crimp ring the next time I have it apart. I'll use the retaining ring at the bottom to take it apart to clean it. Why UPR didn't use a retaining clip on the top eludes me. They put the detent on the shaft.
TJC
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I think that this is a very good suggestion! I have been researching this oil and viscosity for some time. It appears to be superior in almost every category important to TGDI engines. I am hoping that it staves off, or at least slows the accumulation of the crud on the valve stems.
I looked for it the last time I was in town, but no one had it... guess it's time to order online.
Your results confirmed my initial impression. Thanks for the data point!
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