New Truck -Paint Detail-Process Wax/Graphene

[airline tech]

Looking for advice

I have not waxed a vehicle since 2012 (old car) now I have my first new vehicle and would like to add paint protection before winter, I have clayed and then applied wax, meguiars 2.0 tech wax and I think I used Mothers detailer on previous cars I've owned. I never really got into detailing all that much as I have always had used cars and they never really had great looking paint (swirl marks) from previous owner

Reading through the various posts on Detailing, I am coming to the understanding that times have changed, and new processes have evolved

Is applying paste/liquid wax -Old School? I am to understand that all I need to do is wash, clay, and use diluted alcohol to clean up clay residue, then apply Graphene or Ceramic Coating. I picked up some 303 Graphene today with the clay-bar kit. So, before I touch the paint just wanted to be clear as to what others on here were using. (BTW- I have Cactus Grey) - I have seen some of the pics on here LOVE the shine, man I have never had a car that did not have swirl marks all through it, I want to take pride in this truck and want to do it right, hard to fix paint mistakes and the only step I am nervous about is applying diluted alcohol to a brand-new truck, should I be looking at another product?

From what I've read it appears that the 303 Line is the most popular on here, however sometimes I have found some items create some RIBBING, 303 is one of them and I admit it I bought the tailgate Damper - of course after the fact I found that this item creates some most of the RIBBING on here

I would also like to add, I find this forum to be a great place to go for questions specific to our trucks and appreciate all on here who are willing to offer input and suggestions - much easier than a google search - open it up and it's for F-150 or GM and not what you are looking for. I'm a mechanic and in Aircraft Maintenance you are required to follow the manuals, even though you have changed a part 100 times you are still required to have the current manual with you for reference (possible revisions) so it's in my nature to be detailed and research forums like this before I tackle any unfamiliar project. Heck, I resided my house by leaning from YouTube. I like to call it (Man's Best Friend) It took me 6 months - but I got it done, one section at a time and saved money for the labor to have someone else do it That money saved went to the down payment on the truck.

Looking for the new norm process that is most used. (I dare I write it) but are there any better products than 303?

Thanks

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[OFC Ranger]

From my understanding the only reason classic wax products still even exist is the finish "glow" supposedly. Word is high carnauba offers a "warmer glow" where has synthetic finishes are a "cold glow".

WTF does this even mean? I have no clue. Maybe this is all urban legend created by wax makers so they don't lose money. Who knows.

But the general consensus is that classic carnauba waxes lose hands down in every other single category. More of a PITA to put on, less protection, and don't last as long.

 

[TuggerNutz]

I have a cactus grey as well. I will definitely say don't bother with any detailer that has graphene in it on your paint. It's straight up snake oil. I fell for the hype. Because after about 7 to 10 days you'll notice the graphene to flake off and collect on your paint. I say use what you got on your wheels if they're dark color. Of course after you clean them properly.

As far a clay bars you can go with a synthetic. You won't have to worry about the diluted isopropyl alcohol step then. I'll clay mine after I wash it completely and rinse it off. I'll use the leftover car shampoo in my foam canon to provide lubrication for the clay towel. I would also use iron remover as well before the clay.

Definitely get some good microfiber towels and wash them before you use them.

 

[TuggerNutz]

From my understanding the only reason classic wax products still even exist is the finish "glow" supposedly. Word is high carnauba offers a "warmer glow" where has synthetic finishes are a "cold glow".

WTF does this even mean? I have no clue. Maybe this is all urban legend created by wax makers so they don't lose money. Who knows.

But the general consensus is that classic carnauba waxes lose hands down in every other single category. More of a PITA to put on, less protection, and don't last as long.

Believe or not it's actually true. It's all about the different spectrum of light being bounced back towards your eyes.

 

[Mostly Harmless]

I clayed my truck, then just washed it again (no alcohol spray) and applied 3 coats of 303 Graphene wax. The stuff is as good as they say. I applied mine in April and the water is still beading and the paint feels smooth to the touch. I suggest using 303 graphene detailer spray after each wash, really helps to maintain it. I will probably clay the truck again before the winter and apply the 303 again. I believe you can use wax over the 303 but I haven't really found a need too.

 

[Canadian Ranger]

I clay bared and polished my Ranger. Then applied 3 coats of Turtle Wax Hybrid Solutions Ceramic Spray. I couldn't be happier. Low cost, ease of application, and it lasts a LONG time.

 

[seasprite]

I ended having the dealer put a ceramic coating on mine when I bought it ( yeah I paid to much but the life time warranty on the paint sold me) and this is my first time with the high tech sealants and coatings. I fell in love with the ease of application and longevity of these products. Like you this is my first new vehicle and want enjoy the newness for as long as possible. And hated to wax but I like the ease of this.

 

[Dgc333]

I am lazy and really don't like washing and waxing my vehicles but I still want them to look good so I make it as easy as possible on myself. That being said I use a different product on each vehicle.

For my Barracuda which normally doesn't get driven in the rain I will use a mother's synthetic clay bar then use Mother's CMX ceramic wax. The CMX is by far the easiest product to apply by a wide margin. Unless you have over done it you don't even need to buff off residue because there is none. It typically gets this treatment once per year and I will use Lucas Speed Wax as a detailer before a show.

My wife's Cherokee gets waxed with Meguires Tech Wax 2.0. This is a synthetic wax that has some abrasives in it so it acts like a cleaner wax even though it is not advertised as such. The Tech Wax is also very easy to apply and buff out. The jeep gets waxed spring and fall and never had seen any kind of detailer. My wife never washes it so when it is real dirty looking I will.

With the Ranger I have been using the 303 Graphine because it does not stain the Tremor Graphics. It is not as easy to apply and buff out as the CMX or Tech Wax but it is not bad and overall the fact that I can go right over the graphics it makes the whole process easier. The Ranger gets waxed spring and fall and I use what ever detailer I have when it needs it.

The daily drivers get washed about once per week during the winter at the local contact car wash. Normally I wash in the driveway during the warm weather but this year there has been a water ban and it's not allowed so I have been going to the local non contact car wash.

As far as durability I have not noticed that there is a real difference (my Mustang daily driver used to get CMX) in how long the beading lasts between CMX, Tech Wax or Graphine.

I recently won a raffle at a local car show and got a 5 gallon pail full of Chemical Guy car car products. The only one I have used is the interior detailer. Doesn't work any better than the Mother's VLR I hand been using but it sure does smell nice.

 

[Trigganometry]

I have a cactus grey as well. I will definitely say don't bother with any detailer that has graphene in it on your paint. It's straight up snake oil. I fell for the hype. Because after about 7 to 10 days you'll notice the graphene to flake off and collect on your paint. I say use what you got on your wheels if they're dark color. Of course after you clean them properly.

As far a clay bars you can go with a synthetic. You won't have to worry about the diluted isopropyl alcohol step then. I'll clay mine after I wash it completely and rinse it off. I'll use the leftover car shampoo in my foam canon to provide lubrication for the clay towel. I would also use iron remover as well before the clay.

Definitely get some good microfiber towels and wash them before you use them.

Have to disagree with you here on the snake oil label for graphene. More than one of us have used it and it works far better than any wax and lasts way longer. For some that’s years of use.

To each their own!

 

[wanted33]

Have to disagree with you here on the snake oil label for graphene. More than one of us have used it and it works far better than any wax and lasts way longer. For some that’s years of use.

To each their own!

I was going to say the same thing Rick. I've done 3 of my vehicles with the 303 Graphine, and no problems have popped up. I did have a problem with the 303 Graphine detailer streaking for some reason. The car was in the shade, I had let the paint cool off before using it, and it still wanted to streak. Who knows........

 

[Tim H.]

Looking for advice

I have not waxed a vehicle since 2012 (old car) now I have my first new vehicle and would like to add paint protection before winter, I have clayed and then applied wax, meguiars 2.0 tech wax and I think I used Mothers detailer on previous cars I've owned. I never really got into detailing all that much as I have always had used cars and they never really had great looking paint (swirl marks) from previous owner

Reading through the various posts on Detailing, I am coming to the understanding that times have changed, and new processes have evolved

Is applying paste/liquid wax -Old School? I am to understand that all I need to do is wash, clay, and use diluted alcohol to clean up clay residue, then apply Graphene or Ceramic Coating. I picked up some 303 Graphene today with the clay-bar kit. So, before I touch the paint just wanted to be clear as to what others on here were using. (BTW- I have Cactus Grey) - I have seen some of the pics on here LOVE the shine, man I have never had a car that did not have swirl marks all through it, I want to take pride in this truck and want to do it right, hard to fix paint mistakes and the only step I am nervous about is applying diluted alcohol to a brand-new truck, should I be looking at another product?

From what I've read it appears that the 303 Line is the most popular on here, however sometimes I have found some items create some RIBBING, 303 is one of them and I admit it I bought the tailgate Damper - of course after the fact I found that this item creates some most of the RIBBING on here

I would also like to add, I find this forum to be a great place to go for questions specific to our trucks and appreciate all on here who are willing to offer input and suggestions - much easier than a google search - open it up and it's for F-150 or GM and not what you are looking for. I'm a mechanic and in Aircraft Maintenance you are required to follow the manuals, even though you have changed a part 100 times you are still required to have the current manual with you for reference (possible revisions) so it's in my nature to be detailed and research forums like this before I tackle any unfamiliar project. Heck, I resided my house by leaning from YouTube. I like to call it (Man's Best Friend) It took me 6 months - but I got it done, one section at a time and saved money for the labor to have someone else do it That money saved went to the down payment on the truck.

Looking for the new norm process that is most used. (I dare I write it) but are there any better products than 303?

Thanks

I paid for ceramic coating…4 coats. That included lifetime warranty for spotting, water repellent etc. Water, dirt, mud slides right off especially when driving. Washing is very easy and I only use a battery powered blower from Harbor Freight to dry…easy-peazy!

 

[veedubtuner]

I plan to give these guys a try when I take delivery https://dura-coating.com/

Already have their tire dressing which is awesome as it doesn't sling everywhere

 

[Jhbryaniv]

9j

Have to disagree with you here on the snake oil label for graphene. More than one of us have used it and it works far better than any wax and lasts way longer. For some that’s years of use.

To each their own!

We use a graphene ceramic coating for some of our jobs... I love how it some out. Am I convinced the graphene does anything amazing or special, no. But it does look good and helps it sell. Lol

That being said I'm not sure what I'm going to put on my ranger but it won't be the graphene coating...

I will have to find a video I watched with Dr Beasley and Chicago auto pros explaining graphene benefits and limitations... If I find it tonight I'll post it...

 

[TuggerNutz]

Have to disagree with you here on the snake oil label for graphene. More than one of us have used it and it works far better than any wax and lasts way longer. For some that’s years of use.

To each their own!

We all have our different opinions on it. But I never said anything about it not lasting longer than wax. I was mainly talking about the actual graphene that's added into the detailer. I'll put it right up there with the gold flakes in Goldschläger. ?.

And yes I've seen the comparison shootout videos against other products. I will admit that it's impressive at face value. But I've seen those companies say that their new graphene detailer isn't just their old ceramic detailer with added graphene. They say that they had to add some other stuff to it to get the graphene to work they want.

And in all of those review or testing videos they all do the same exact thing. They wash it over and over again. So you never get to see the graphene flake off. As far as it lasting longer than normal ceramic detailers. I don't think it's the graphene I think it's whatever else they add is doing the heavy lifting. They should drop graphene and leave the other stuff they added and call it ceramic plus or ceramic pro.

I've switched back to my non graphene detailer and no longer have any issues.

So yes to each their own. Now excuse me I'm running late for my pumpkin spice oil change.

 

[Jhbryaniv]

I believe this is the video...

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