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Multiple DTCs no crank after ABS sensor service

BAMRanger

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In the want of clearing two recurring warning lights, and fixing some small sensor troubles with one of our fleet's Rangers, We have effectively bricked a truck in our shop. We have been testing and doing research for the past three days to figure out the issue, with no luck so I figure I'd try my luck here, see if anyone has any insight on how to get out of this pickle.

Our 2019 ranger XLT, roughly 62K miles, came into the shop with ABS and Hillstart assist faults, aswell as some parking sensor issues (pretty typical with these trucks in my experience, often connector related issue). We are located in Canada, and our winters tend to cause these kind of problems, snow and ice gets packed everywhere on our cars, and ends up causing issues. In the want of clearing these faults, we decided to procede to inspecting, cleaning and reinstalling the sensors and connectors one by one, starting with the wheel sensors. We do not own a ODB2 diagnostic tool, so once this was done, in order to clear the error codes, we attempted to drain the power from the ECU. To do so, as it is a regular procedure in other vehicles, our reflex was to disconnect the battery, and ground out the positive lead with the negative lead. We then reconnected the battery. Here's where our headache started..

The vehicle is now giving us 4 additional warning lights, service advancetrac, Service Required, see owners manual(wrench), flashing check engine, on-top of the two we were trying to clear. We now also have a no crank no start condition.

Here are the steps we have taken this far...
Checked all the start components with test light/multimeter to make sure they are not faulty
- ignition switch
- Brake switch
- Ignition relay
- Ignition fuse
- Starter fuse
- Starter relay
- Anti Theft module

We jumped the starter relay, to check if power is getting to the starter motor, and that it did not magically seize during this service procedure, it turns over.

Thinking we could resolve this with a scan and clear from a diagnostic tool, I called in a local mechanic with an ODB2 scanner. See attached photos for the codes we were able to pull.. we cleared them using the tool, truck is still bricked.

The mechanic suggested we go through all the fuses and relays, again. So we did, tested them all one by one. Have not found anything faulty.

I'm thinking something is wrong with the Anti Theft, we attempted a reset but we're unsuccessful in this. Could very well be something else at this point too.

Any insight would be appreciated, we are trying to avoid sending it to ford, as they like to keep our trucks sitting in their lot for a while before repairing them.

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Joeiconic

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Is there a fuse inside the BMS module that connects to the negative side? If so, you may have blown that fuse.
 
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BAMRanger

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Is there a fuse inside the BMS module that connects to the negative side? If so, you may have blown that fuse.
Good question, we haven't checked that. We verified all the fuses and relays in both fuse boxes (under the dash and under the hood), aswell as the fuse on the battery.
 
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BAMRanger

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https://www.ranger5g.com/forum/threads/fuse-box-engine-compartment-lower-level.5144/#post-81396

The fuse box under the hood does have more than one layer of fuses, which wasn't obvious to me until I saw this thread.
Thanks for the reply, we have pulled the fuse box to access the two tiers. The starter 30A fuse is located there, behind the starter relay (on the top tier). We confirmed the fuse is good when we jumped the relay to test the starter motor, and tested it itself. All other fuses in both tiers were tested as well, in case they could be at the root of the issue.
 


DukeCanBuildit

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Not being a Smart Alec…honestly trying to help.

Are both of these breakers/fuses on the positive terminal cluster still okay? It’s hard to tell by looking if they are blown without taking them off the battery or being right on top of them.

8B1CB3A1-AEE2-4DFB-B9EB-E71E0A4E9286.jpeg


Good Luck Mat
 
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BAMRanger

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Not being a Smart Alec…honestly trying to help.

Are both of these breakers/fuses on the positive terminal cluster still okay? It’s hard to tell by looking if they are blown without taking them off the battery or being right on top of them.

8B1CB3A1-AEE2-4DFB-B9EB-E71E0A4E9286.jpeg


Good Luck Mat
Thanks for the reply! We did test them with a multimeter, but at this point may be worth pulling them again for a second look.
 

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Another thing to check is current standing voltage of battery. Seeing some of the DCT’s in the pictures above it does warrant taking a look to verify. Might just have a bad cell and decided to act up now
 
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BAMRanger

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Another thing to check is current standing voltage of battery. Seeing some of the DCT’s in the pictures above it does warrant taking a look to verify. Might just have a bad cell and decided to act up now
Thank you for your response.
Battery was tested. We did draw quite a bit on it performing different tests and attempts at restarting the truck, explaining some of the codes we obtained from the scanner. We left it on a tender overnight Thursday to replenish it. Everything seemed 100% Friday morning when we took it off the tender. I have another ranger in the shop right now with a busted front diff, so I'll pull the Battery out of that one and test that theory, for good measure.
 

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In the want of clearing two recurring warning lights, and fixing some small sensor troubles with one of our fleet's Rangers, We have effectively bricked a truck in our shop. We have been testing and doing research for the past three days to figure out the issue, with no luck so I figure I'd try my luck here, see if anyone has any insight on how to get out of this pickle.

Our 2019 ranger XLT, roughly 62K miles, came into the shop with ABS and Hillstart assist faults, aswell as some parking sensor issues (pretty typical with these trucks in my experience, often connector related issue). We are located in Canada, and our winters tend to cause these kind of problems, snow and ice gets packed everywhere on our cars, and ends up causing issues. In the want of clearing these faults, we decided to procede to inspecting, cleaning and reinstalling the sensors and connectors one by one, starting with the wheel sensors. We do not own a ODB2 diagnostic tool, so once this was done, in order to clear the error codes, we attempted to drain the power from the ECU. To do so, as it is a regular procedure in other vehicles, our reflex was to disconnect the battery, and ground out the positive lead with the negative lead. We then reconnected the battery. Here's where our headache started..

The vehicle is now giving us 4 additional warning lights, service advancetrac, Service Required, see owners manual(wrench), flashing check engine, on-top of the two we were trying to clear. We now also have a no crank no start condition.

Here are the steps we have taken this far...
Checked all the start components with test light/multimeter to make sure they are not faulty
- ignition switch
- Brake switch
- Ignition relay
- Ignition fuse
- Starter fuse
- Starter relay
- Anti Theft module

We jumped the starter relay, to check if power is getting to the starter motor, and that it did not magically seize during this service procedure, it turns over.

Thinking we could resolve this with a scan and clear from a diagnostic tool, I called in a local mechanic with an ODB2 scanner. See attached photos for the codes we were able to pull.. we cleared them using the tool, truck is still bricked.

The mechanic suggested we go through all the fuses and relays, again. So we did, tested them all one by one. Have not found anything faulty.

I'm thinking something is wrong with the Anti Theft, we attempted a reset but we're unsuccessful in this. Could very well be something else at this point too.

Any insight would be appreciated, we are trying to avoid sending it to ford, as they like to keep our trucks sitting in their lot for a while before repairing them.

PXL_20230120_181621396.jpg
PXL_20230120_181621396.jpg
PXL_20230120_181600012.jpg
PXL_20230120_181554455.jpg
PXL_20230120_181550417.jpg
PXL_20230120_181550013.jpg
PXL_20230120_181545712.jpg
Is the battery in the key fob good?
 
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BAMRanger

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Is the battery in the key fob good?
Good question, yes! And both key fobs were tested to start, incase it was related to the key. So no dice there.
 

chrisakz

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Check your grounds? There are going to be several main ones around. There are 2 in the front drivers side wheel well and one on the inside of the fender near the under hood fuse box
 

seasprite

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Looks like all but your ABS codes are history codes, but wouldn't think it would cause a no start.

Wonder if you tripped something with the PATS when you shorted the + and - together? Does the theft light go out or flash quickly or stay on solid. Should go out after few sec for normal.
 
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BAMRanger

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Check your grounds? There are going to be several main ones around. There are 2 in the front drivers side wheel well and one on the inside of the fender near the under hood fuse box
Grounds have not been messed with, but from what I can see they seem as they were when the car were running, well fastened in their original emplacement.
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BAMRanger

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Looks like all but your ABS codes are history codes, but wouldn't think it would cause a no start.

Wonder if you tripped something with the PATS when you shorted the + and - together? Does the theft light go out or flash quickly or stay on solid. Should go out after few sec for normal.
Hmmm. You might be onto something here. No theft light comes on when I turn the key. See attached video.


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