Maximizing Battery Life

[TJC]

Why be mad at Ford? It works fine.

Because I am only getting 30% of the life out of the same batteries that I use in three other cars. I routinely get 7-9 years from my batteries and never have to think about it.

With my new Ranger I get a low battery warning a year in. And even now the state of charge is below optimum.

Yes I could stick my head in the sand and simply purchase a battery every 18-36 months, but I know it is possible to routinely get 84-108 months out of the same batteries in my other cars.... without ever thinking about it.

It only works fine if you want to spend $200 on a battery every 18-36 months. I never had to before and I don't want to now.

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[chrisakz]

I’ve seen batteries right off the shelf that are bad, some that last 2 years some that last 8 years even in the same machine/vehicle. what else are you really gonna do but drive yourself mad trying to come to a conclusion

 

[dtech]

I’ve seen batteries right off the shelf that are bad, some that last 2 years some that last 8 years even in the same machine/vehicle. what else are you really gonna do but drive yourself mad trying to come to a conclusion

yep - so many variables involved in batt behavior and longevity, all I know is that the damn things have gotten more expensive in recent yrs like most everything else, except stuff like multi mode chargers with trickle and desulfators are pretty cheap.

 

[Rp930]

Because I am only getting 30% of the life out of the same batteries that I use in three other cars. I routinely get 7-9 years from my batteries and never have to think about it.

With my new Ranger I get a low battery warning a year in. And even now the state of charge is below optimum.

Yes I could stick my head in the sand and simply purchase a battery every 18-36 months, but I know it is possible to routinely get 84-108 months out of the same batteries in my other cars.... without ever thinking about it.

It only works fine if you want to spend $200 on a battery every 18-36 months. I never had to before and I don't want to now.

So all four batteries are the same brand and same rating? And the other cars have the same parasitic loss?

 

[TJC]

Ideally, you purchase a battery as close to the build date as possible. Once the acid goes in the clock starts ticking. The longer it sits on the shelf the higher the resistance due to sulfation. If a battery drops below 2.06v per cell (12.36v per 12v battery) it will sulfate. Temps above 80F will also cause sulfation.

When I purchase a new battery, the first step I take after it is installed is to top off the charge and desulfate it for 2 weeks. I do this in the car with the onbaard desulator and a trickle charger. After that, I no longer even think about the battery until the next purchase 7-9 years later. The onboard desulfator does its thing - out of sight out of mind.

Back in the day, when you purchased a battery, they came dry and the dealer would fill it with the sulfuric acid and set the initial charge while you waited. This insured the battery was in optimal condition.

Now they put date codes on the battery, but they cheat! They have the batteries on banks and keep them charged for up to 6 months (maybe even longer). I caught the employees changing the date labels when I purchased my last battery. So now you really never know what you are getting, as the date codes used to come from the plant, but apparently stores like Advance, Autozone, Orielly's, now put whatever stamp on the batteries they want. So buyer no longer have any assurance of the life left in the "new" battery.

 

[TJC]

So all four batteries are the same brand and same rating? And the other cars have the same parasitic loss?

A rhetorical question?

Actually they are all different vehicles and different batteries, but all are AGM, and all three lasted 7+ years, and all three autos had the onboard desulfafor installed. The Maxima had the largest dark power drain as it has the most electronics onboard. Curiously, its previous battery lasted 8 years, and the battery in it now was installed in 2016 and is still going strong.

Prior to this my batteries lasted 3 years or so. Didn't matter vehicle or battery type. I even tried several Optimas (red and yellow top). The early American made Optima batteries were great, the Mexican built batteries later were nothing special, except for the price.

And for what it is worth, the vast majority of batteries made in the USA come from 3 manufacturers.

• Johnson Controls (with over half the market)
• Exide
• East Penn

There are more much smaller manufacturers, but they make up a very small part of the market segment.

 

[chrisakz]

Ideally, you purchase a battery as close to the build date as possible. Once the acid goes in the clock starts ticking. The longer it sits on the shelf the higher the resistance due to sulfation. If a battery drops below 2.06v per cell (12.36v per 12v battery) it will sulfate. Temps above 80F will also cause sulfation.

When I purchase a new battery, the first step I take after it is installed is to top off the charge and desulfate it for 2 weeks. I do this in the car with the onbaard desulator and a trickle charger. After that, I know longer even think about the battery until the next purchase 7-9 years later. The onboard desulfator does its thing - out of sight out of mind.

Back in the day, when you purchased a battery, they came dry and the dealer would fill it with the sulfuric acid and set the initial charge while you waited. This insured the battery was in optimal condition.

Now they put date codes on the battery, but they cheat! They have the batteries on banks and keep them charged for up to 6 months (maybe even longer). I caught the employees changing the date labels when I purchased my last battery. So now you really never know what you are getting, as the date codes used to come from the plant, but apparently stores like Advance, Autozone, Orielly's, now put whatever stamp on the batteries they want. So buyer no longer have any assurance of the life left in the "new" battery.

Yes so important to always look at the date at purchase. I’ve seen this first hand too where batteries have a date code 2 years old still on the shelf, also stickers with date codes that haven’t even happened yet. (Looking at a battery in August with a date code of the upcoming October).
There’s a battery dealer near me that buys batteries completely blank without any sort of stickers (brand or date)and will slap it on when you purchase it. He’s great and you can buy batteries at or near wholesale price but I’ve always found it a touch odd.

 

[Rp930]

A rhetorical question?

Actually they are all different vehicles and different batteries, but all are AGM, and all three lasted 7+ years, and all three autos had the onboard desulfafor installed. The maxima had the largest dark power drain as it has the most electronics onboard. Curiously, it's previous battery lasted 8 years, and the battery in it now was installed in 2016 and is still going strong.

Prior to this my batteries lasted 3 years or so. Didn't matter vehicle or battery type. I even tried several Optimas (red and yellow top). The early American made Optima batteries were great, the Mexican built batteries later were nothing special, except for the price.

And for what it is worth, the vast majority of batteries made in the USA come from 3 manufacturers.

• Johnson Controls (with over half the market)
• Exide
• East Penn

There are more much smaller manufacturers, but they make up a very small part of the market segment.

I’m just trying to get an idea how “scientific” this is.

Yes I know about batteries. I retired from the automotive business after 45 years and worked for a manufacturer as a technical trainer, field technical service rep, etc.

Even in retirement there is only so much time I’m willing to expend out thinking the engineers. But I wish you luck. You seem to have plenty of time to delve into this and make yourself happy.

 

[TJC]

• 
  

• I’m just trying to get an idea how “scientific” this is.
  
  Yes I know about batteries. I retired from the automotive business after 45 years and worked for a manufacturer as a technical trainer, field technical service rep, etc.
  
  Even in retirement there is only so much time I’m willing to expend out thinking the engineers. But I wish you luck. You seem to have plenty of time to delve into this and make yourself happy.

  Thank you for the kind words. Enjoy your retirement.

 

[Rp930]

• 
  
• 
  Thank you for the kind words. Enjoy your retirement.

Sure. There are always pioneers. Your information is interesting but I would recommend keeping it relevant to Ranger. Your experience with the other make cars is more or less irrelevant. I get what you’re saying about the other batteries but it’s what you discover on the Ranger that’s important. Keep up the study.

 

[TJC]

Everything I am doing is about obtaining the same performance from my 5G Ranger that I have managed to achieve with 3 other cars which includes my previous 4G Ranger. I have data points that suggest that the 5G Ranger sacrifices battery longevity for fuel mileage.

It is as simple as that.

 

[dtech]

My warranties up in 10 days so Monday I visit the Ford dealer to see if CEO Jim Farley will gift me a brand new battery, it's a gamble as it's an hour drive to the dealer and the battery tests marginal.

Now a month back I finally got rid of my ancient - 40 yr old associated 4 amp battery charger, plate rectifier and heavy transformer technology but admittedly upon reading this thread the thought popped up if I really wanted to guarantee a new battery - well could have hooked up that associated and cooked the battery till it's well done.

 

[TJC]

My warranties up in 10 days so Monday I visit the Ford dealer to see if CEO Jim Farley will gift me a brand new battery, it's a gamble as it's an hour drive to the dealer and the battery tests marginal.

Now a month back I finally got rid of my ancient - 40 yr old associated 4 amp battery charger, plate rectifier and heavy transformer technology but admittedly upon reading this thread the thought popped up if I really wanted to guarantee a new battery - well could have hooked up that associated and cooked the battery till it's well done.

Boil that battery dry!

 

[AzScorpion]

My warranties up in 10 days so Monday I visit the Ford dealer to see if CEO Jim Farley will gift me a brand new battery, it's a gamble as it's an hour drive to the dealer and the battery tests marginal.

Now a month back I finally got rid of my ancient - 40 yr old associated 4 amp battery charger, plate rectifier and heavy transformer technology but admittedly upon reading this thread the thought popped up if I really wanted to guarantee a new battery - well could have hooked up that associated and cooked the battery till it's well done.

If you have to drive an hour I'd try and cook it as much as possible. Only reason is if it's still working after they test it you're going to be SOL. Mine was replaced after only 18 months and it had a dead cell. Since getting the new one I hook it up to a maintainer a few days a week and so far that's helped. Some weeks I only drive my truck a day or two and even then they're usually short commutes. Then add in the high heat and it's not the best recipe for these batteries.

 

[Joeiconic]

Everything I am doing is about obtaining the same performance from my 5G Ranger that I have managed to achieve with 3 other cars which includes my previous 4G Ranger. I have data points that suggest that the 5G Ranger sacrifices battery longevity for fuel mileage.

It is as simple as that.

Your older vehicles have very little in common with your 5g Ranger. Comparing the battery usage between them is apples to oranges. And it’s not a Ford specific issue. Just google “battery problems“ and any manufacturer and you will find that battery drain is a common occurrence in all late model vehicles.

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