Long Travel Setup

Steelekj03

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Haha i used my income tax refund and bonus to buy the bajakits man I get it.

For the ride it was terrible. Just driving out of my driveway I was oscillating, felt like I was in a lowrider it was constantly bouncing lol.
Damn lol, I guess I'll just wait a bit longer and do it all at once haha. Also love the build man, I believe I read you were a mechanical engineering student somewhere in the thread how do you like it, I graduated high school in may and am taking a gap year trying to decide my major while working.
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Superdannyboy

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Damn lol, I guess I'll just wait a bit longer and do it all at once haha. Also love the build man, I believe I read you were a mechanical engineering student somewhere in the thread how do you like it, I graduated high school in may and am taking a gap year trying to decide my major while working.
Thanks, I've worked full time through it and it was hell. I did a manufacturing associates before that to make me a better engineer while I was a machinist. Now I'm a manufacturing engineer and I love it. The mechanical engineering degree is helping me be a better manufacturing engineer to understand how things are designed at the same time understanding how things are made. Example I can make good design with good GD&T that won't waste a lot of money manufacturing because I was a machinist. It's just what I like, we all like different things. But I'm doing mechanical engineering technology which is less math and way more hands on labs. I still do all the engineering courses and I'm taking differential equations as an elective just for anyone that thinks mechanical engineering technology students are less than a traditional mechanical engineer. I tutored calculus before and honestly I just don't like all the theory stuff. Engineers of many trades go to manufacturing engineers to better understand how something should be made and a manufacturing engineer with a mechanical engineering background has a leg up.
But I do recommend working through college you graduate with so much experience.
 

Steelekj03

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Thanks, I've worked full time through it and it was hell. I did a manufacturing associates before that to make me a better engineer while I was a machinist. Now I'm a manufacturing engineer and I love it. The mechanical engineering degree is helping me be a better manufacturing engineer to understand how things are designed at the same time understanding how things are made. Example I can make good design with good GD&T that won't waste a lot of money manufacturing because I was a machinist. It's just what I like, we all like different things. But I'm doing mechanical engineering technology which is less math and way more hands on labs. I still do all the engineering courses and I'm taking differential equations as an elective just for anyone that thinks mechanical engineering technology students are less than a traditional mechanical engineer. I tutored calculus before and honestly I just don't like all the theory stuff. Engineers of many trades go to manufacturing engineers to better understand how something should be made and a manufacturing engineer with a mechanical engineering background has a leg up.
But I do recommend working through college you graduate with so much experience.
That's actually wicked cool, I'm currently a machnist right now running and programming wire EDM's, I tend to struggle a bit with math but ironically I like to do it once I've figured it out, and I've always been interested in engineering so that's a route I've been looking at for sure so I appreciate the information!
 
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Superdannyboy

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I'm sending in my coilovers to get new seals and oil. I've had them for about 22 months and this will be my first time getting them serviced. I also got some eibach 700# springs that are 14" long which should just barely fit and allow me to use less preload at same ride height.

I'm currently designing my control arms to be +5 over stock and should have my prototype next week and I'm sure I'll go through a few revisions. I'll be able to mount my coilovers more outward on the lower mount. You can see on my coilovers there is an external spacer on each shaft and I was told there is a .8" spacer internally.

I think removing both spacers is the minimum amount of stroke length to use which should put me at about a 7" stroke length. I may need to buy a 8" or 10" stroke length coilovers but I'm going to try and use these first.
 

BladeRanger

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I'm sending in my coilovers to get new seals and oil. I've had them for about 22 months and this will be my first time getting them serviced. I also got some eibach 700# springs that are 14" long which should just barely fit and allow me to use less preload at same ride height.

I'm currently designing my control arms to be +5 over stock and should have my prototype next week and I'm sure I'll go through a few revisions. I'll be able to mount my coilovers more outward on the lower mount. You can see on my coilovers there is an external spacer on each shaft and I was told there is a .8" spacer internally.

I think removing both spacers is the minimum amount of stroke length to use which should put me at about a 7" stroke length. I may need to buy a 8" or 10" stroke length coilovers but I'm going to try and use these first.
Just realized that looking at your pics ICON coilsovers piston shaft are on the bottom. Fox coilovers piston shaft are top side. I'm saving some $$$ to change mine to Eibach coilovers or wait till Ranger Raptor comes out and see what they got for coilovers. Hopefully, and maybe just a simple modification to fit in the non Raptor Ranger.
 


20XLRangerFraptor

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I'm sending in my coilovers to get new seals and oil. I've had them for about 22 months and this will be my first time getting them serviced. I also got some eibach 700# springs that are 14" long which should just barely fit and allow me to use less preload at same ride height.

I'm currently designing my control arms to be +5 over stock and should have my prototype next week and I'm sure I'll go through a few revisions. I'll be able to mount my coilovers more outward on the lower mount. You can see on my coilovers there is an external spacer on each shaft and I was told there is a .8" spacer internally.

I think removing both spacers is the minimum amount of stroke length to use which should put me at about a 7" stroke length. I may need to buy a 8" or 10" stroke length coilovers but I'm going to try and use these first.
Interested to see what you got going on for the +5 you’re designing. I’m digging down the rabbit hole and wanting to do the same with mine. Just sell me your coil overs and buy 8” ones lol ?
 

Frenchy

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Just realized that looking at your pics ICON coilsovers piston shaft are on the bottom. Fox coilovers piston shaft are top side. I'm saving some $$$ to change mine to Eibach coilovers or wait till Ranger Raptor comes out and see what they got for coilovers. Hopefully, and maybe just a simple modification to fit in the non Raptor Ranger.
It's going to depend on not just the manufacturer but also the type of shock to which way the Piston shaft will be designed. Some shocks are designed to be upside down like the icon shown above. Others are shown to be in the normal conventional way. With the driving most of us do it won't matter too much but generally speaking for best performance you would have it similar to what the icon shows above
 
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Superdannyboy

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Just realized that looking at your pics ICON coilsovers piston shaft are on the bottom. Fox coilovers piston shaft are top side. I'm saving some $$$ to change mine to Eibach coilovers or wait till Ranger Raptor comes out and see what they got for coilovers. Hopefully, and maybe just a simple modification to fit in the non Raptor Ranger.
The fox 2.0's have the shaft on top and the fox 2.5's have the shaft on the bottom. Most 2.0 shocks from what I've seen are closer to stock which means you can only get so much of an improvement over stock and usually can't change the internals, which is fine for most applications. Most 2.5's are rebuildable so you can change the performance by taking them apart and changing internals around (shim stacks, bleed holes in piston). I don't think it matters much if the shaft is on top or bottom, it's pressurized and just wants to move the piston through the path of least resistance, whether that direction is up or down. What I think is cool about the 2.5's is that they add a spacer on the shaft to limit stroke length to fit the OEM application, and if you make mods you could remove the spacer and have more stroke length. I don't want to remove my spacers on the shaft yet because at full compression with my bajakits the upper uniball is about maxed out and if I allowed the shock to compress even more I might cause damage.

Do whatever suits you best, that's what this forum is all about. As for the ranger raptor, I wouldn't be surprised if the coil bucket sits higher than ours and they stuff a 6" stroke fox shock with live valving.

Interested to see what you got going on for the +5 you’re designing. I’m digging down the rabbit hole and wanting to do the same with mine. Just sell me your coil overs and buy 8” ones lol ?
If I do end up getting longer coilovers I will probably cut off my coil buckets and add a hoop. I'll probably put the icons on the f150 haha.
 
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I'm sending in my coilovers to get new seals and oil. I've had them for about 22 months and this will be my first time getting them serviced. I also got some eibach 700# springs that are 14" long which should just barely fit and allow me to use less preload at same ride height.

I'm currently designing my control arms to be +5 over stock and should have my prototype next week and I'm sure I'll go through a few revisions. I'll be able to mount my coilovers more outward on the lower mount. You can see on my coilovers there is an external spacer on each shaft and I was told there is a .8" spacer internally.

I think removing both spacers is the minimum amount of stroke length to use which should put me at about a 7" stroke length. I may need to buy a 8" or 10" stroke length coilovers but I'm going to try and use these first.
What’s the part number for the springs you got
 

Whiplash

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Just ordered some SVC outer tie rods.
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Extended Length? ...I have the APG stock length Billet Tie rod ends with the Heim joint end on my "mid runner"...APG has an extended length Billet Tie rod with the adjustable end for the " Pro-Runner:" long travel , allowing for more than 3,0" used in that kit..
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Superdannyboy

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Extended Length? ...I have the APG View attachment 194165 View attachment 194165 stock length Billet Tie rod ends with the Heim joint end on my "mid runner"...APG has an extended length Billet Tie rod with the adjustable end for the "Long Travel" .... allowing for more than 3,0" used in that kit
I just got the stock length ones and have a 3" spacer that came with the bajakits. I did look on the apg website for tie rods and they aren't on there anymore. Guess I could've called but I just ordered what was available.

My end goal is to relieve the stress on the tie rod ends at full droop but not make the tie rods too strong because then that makes my weakest link my electric steering box and I would rather replace my outer tie rods lol. As long as I don't change the inner tie rods I shouldn't put too much stress on the steering box.
 

Whiplash

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My stock OEM ball joint ends appeared to be maxed out at full droop with the ICON 2,5" Ext travel coilovers....the extra range of motion of the APG's fixed that...now I think the stock sway bar still attached is my droop limiter....Beside the advantage of less binding, the up graded tie rods are holding their toe angle alignment better...
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