Long Range America Tank

[Hammer40k]

At a bit of a loss for next steps. Pulled codes today and no hoses appear loose/disconnected. “ P04F0- system high load purge line ‘A’ performance “

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[Colo_Ranger]

A quick search shows this is common if the purge valve is stuck/failed.

 

[Colo_Ranger]

@Goyo86

 

[Goyo86]

@Colo_Ranger is likely right, although could be a lose connection. You could smoke test the system to rule out the open leak first

 

[Frenchy]

If the code popped up after tank installation then chances are it's related to that. Check all connections and you should be good.

 

[Hammer40k]

Indeed, code popped after install. Any idea where the purge valve is? I’m having difficulty locating the part

 

[Frenchy]

Purge valve is located by the engine. Chances are you need to follow the line towards the tank from the purge valve. Or you could get it smoked

 

[Lost_Ranger]

I’m hoping that’s all it is, just going to to be an absolute PITA to drop the tank again (that’s full)

Did you get things figured out?

 

[Hammer40k]

Did you get things figured out?

Unfortunately not yet, waiting on an appt to get her smoke tested.

 

[AndyMedic]

I just picked mine up today from the FedEx terminal. Ordered Black Friday.

 

[Frenchy]

I just picked mine up today from the FedEx terminal. Ordered Black Friday.

Can I come over and help install? I would install it on mine..... But....... Yeah.........

 

[Xwaz]

I did my LRA tank Install Last weekend, It was about what I expected, took about 6 hours total, an hour and a half to drop the tank, 2 and a half to get the hoses all set up and about 2 to get the new tank back in place. I can see where the instructions are lacking for certain items. It was no different to all the other fuel tanks I have done and far easier than any of the AUX tanks I have done from them before.

I think the biggest trap is making sure all the EVAP line go OVER the crossmember. not under, they will get pinched especially the fuel return line, (green clip up front, Yellow at Evap.) as well as making sure you done winch that same home between the bed rails and the tank, Mine is close but its only squishing the split loom.

I did as anyone with the White Knuckle sliders run into the fact the rear driver side mount interferes. I am also very opposed to welding sliders to the frame and in my opinion think its the worst way to do it. So after about 5 minutes I found a work around. All you need is a 2" Long, 1/2" grade 8 Bolt, a Washer and a Nut, I replaced the upper long bol that runs through the frame with this bolt and when the tank is out there is super easy access to the back side and a perfect hole to put a 3/4" socket through to tighten the bolt. I used a Stover Nut so it wont come loose and a large 1.5" Washer on both sides. After picking the truck up with a HiLift the slider seems just as stable as before and I doubt it will move. But time will tell.
2" Long was perfect, but you could use 2.5 or even 3" without issue.

Large Washer. Clamping the Mount

Inside the hole does have a curve to it so the washer sits against that not the frame. But I could get it nice and tight, Way tighter than the old mounting system could in this area.

Is it the best solution ever, no. But It works for me and the couple times of year I actually hit my sliders, a Custom bend plate to maintain the clamping top and bottom would work but I didn't feel like spending a couple hours fabbing it up. This was cheap and easy.

Looking forward to the 750 miles of Range I now have!

 

[Blackeagle]

I got my Long Range America tank installed week before last.

I was scared my gauge wasn't working, but then it finally got low enough to start reading. There is a lot of fuel that is above the sending unit. So it takes a few miles to get it down to a readable level.

The top half of the tank definitely lasts longer than the bottom half.

During my trip out to Texas for the eclipse I tried to use the trip odometer and MPG numbers to figure out how the reading on the fuel gauge corresponds to the amount in the tank. Here's what I came up with:

Gauge	Gallons
F	more than 26.5
3/4	22.5
1/2	17
1/4	10.5
E	4.5

 

[Xwaz]

I got my Long Range America tank installed week before last.



During my trip out to Texas for the eclipse I tried to use the trip odometer and MPG numbers to figure out how the reading on the fuel gauge corresponds to the amount in the tank. Here's what I came up with:

Gauge	Gallons
F	more than 26.5
3/4	22.5
1/2	17
1/4	10.5
E	4.5

That about what I found as well, I find it takes anywhere before 130-200 miles before my needle moves. 130 being off road and trail use, 200 being back roads and highway use.
I have also noticed if you try to top off above the full mark, depending on the pump you may have to pump extremely slowly to get it to fill without clicking off.
I had to top up 7 gallons and it clicked ever 1/2 gallon till I filled a the slowest rate possible. It then when in just fine

 

[Blackeagle]

I have also noticed if you try to top off above the full mark, depending on the pump you may have to pump extremely slowly to get it to fill without clicking off.
I had to top up 7 gallons and it clicked ever 1/2 gallon till I filled a the slowest rate possible. It then when in just fine

Interesting. The only filling problem I've had is the pump cutting off when it gets to $100 (or $75 in one case). However, I think I've only tried to top up with the gauge above full one time.

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