How to add Lariat heated mirrors to an XLT

[lukdeg]

If the Lariat has the heater pins on the mirror connection and power folding mirrors I would think the circuit for the heated mirrors would be ok too, unless Ford wanted to add more harness SKUs as they sundown the generation. But, super easy to test, pull the speaker, and put a test light between ground and pin 4 of the mirror connector, on the driver's side it should be a gray/red wire while on the passenger side it is gray, and turn on the rear defogger. If it lights up, good to go, if not, need to check the path from the BJB at fuse 37 and then to each connecter on the path to the mirror to find the missing parts. I have an XLT, so the wiring is only up to C237-21 as best I can tell. I still need to get the pins to wire it into the stock connectors to the electrical manual as the correct information for all the trouble shooting steps if they are needed by someone else one day with my truck.

thanks for the info, as soon as winter is over, Ill check if the plug is full, if so, ill test to see if theres power on that pin. dealer told me the wiring is not available from mirror to plug as a separate item, he didnt say if it comes with the mirror glass or not.

thanks again!

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[R_Willis]

Finally started my project.

I have a '23 XLT Ranger Supercab w/ 302a and my mirrors already had heat. Main reason was for the built-in turn signals with puddle and power folding also of interest.

Any ideas why my driver side door lock is not working now?! When you hit it lights up orange for a second, but DOES not lock. Doesn't from keyfob either, nor the physical key. Is it electric or mechanical? I would "think" the key would work. Passenger side works fine.

I just started my job, got the driver side mirror replaced with KOOL-VUE direct replacement ones.
#FD428EL-S / FO132068 (Power, Heated, BSD, Signal, Puddle, Power Folding, Chromed).

Today I got the driver side mirror swapped out and the driver side door harness switched from stock to Lariat one (#KB3Z-14631-G).

 

[airline tech]

First Check Fuse 3 (BCM Fuse Box) Feeds the Driver Fuel Flap Unlock Relay
Nomenclated (?) but this is how the truck can be configured to (only unlock the driver's door vs all unlock) via this relay
Then Check for Codes and Perform a BCM Self-Test Reset

The Door Lock Actuator (Motor) is Bi-Directional (Power flows both directions) if there is an error on this circuit (the default is unlock) Safety Feature
Due to this feature - a set code may be preventing the door to lock

Note: Fuse 24 (BCM Fuse Box) Feeds the Central Lock & Central Unlock Relay, so if the other doors are working this fuse is good and the relays are good.

Note: If the LF Door Dock Switch - Operates the other door locks then the switch is good.


Example:
When lock power is sent power flows into C525 (Pin 7) through the motor (Pin 8) and uses the Grd from the Drivers Flap (Unlock) Relay to complete the circuit.
When unlock power is sent (power flows the opposite direction) and the Central Lock Relay provides the Grd.

Note: The Central (Unlock Relay) is only for the Passenger & Rear Doors

If the above is no help:

Check the harness connections:
C525 - Door Latch - Pin 7 (Lock Feed) - Pin 8 (Unlock Feed)

C210 - Inline - Pin 11 (Motor Lock Feed)
C214 - Inline - Pin 14 (Motor Unlock Feed)

Plus: With a meter (Ohms Scale)
New Harnes Side:
Check C210 (11) to C525 (7) - Motor Lock Feed
Check C214 (14) to C525 (8) - Motor Unlock Feed

Now Check the Motor Control Signal Circuit - To ensure integrity

C214 (13) to C525 (1) - Lock (Set)
C214 (12) to C525 (2) - Unlock (Reset)

Readings should read less than 3 ohms; this will verify the harness is wired correctly Pin to Pin and the wires are good.

Note: If Door Ajar Indication is working the Ground is Good - C525 Pin 5

 

[airline tech]

I forgot to add this piece of information - until you get it figured out.
This is a bypass for the electric control of the door lock actuator motors.

 

[R_Willis]

I very much appreciate the replies Airline Tech! I think I solved it!!!

Got to love all these new fangled electronics.

I went ahead and topped of battery with a charge, just in case. Granted it's a '23 with 30k miles and lives mostly in the garage.

I did the BCM reset manually, with five(5) high-beam flashes and three(3) brake pedal touches with the blinking battery light affirmation.

I checked fuse #3 and #24, both seem fine. I did a master reset of general settings on touch screen. I went into the dash settings and toggled auto unlock/mislock/etc on/off.

I took the door back off and check all connections and gave them a gentle blow with the air gun including the three in the kick panel where they come in from the door.

Then, it was acting slightly different, but better. When hitting lock on the driver side door button, it DOES light up and stay lit up and if you pull the handle outside once(1) its locked. You let go and pull again and it opens. The passenger side and tailgate stays locked! WEIRD!

Played around with that slot in the door jam bypass you mentioned in post #139. After a few flicks back and forth with screwdriver all seems to have fixed itself!!!

 

[airline tech]

Awesome - So the Lock/Unlock Actuator was sticking, I wish I would have suggested that first, it's one of those features you forget about as its never used.
I was thinking of it when I was in the wiring diagrams but forgot about it - until later as an option to either force a lock cycle or a way to manually secure the door until the issue was resolved.

FYI- The BCM Reset must be down with a scan tool (BCM-Body Control Module) controls the door lock function.
This forces a self-test for all BCM controlled functions - Lights will trigger on and off and horn will test sound and if I recall the door locks will also test cycle.
It will clear any codes as well - as long as it passes the self-test.

The BMS (Battery Management System) Reset is what you performed, this resets the charging algorithm and battery time (since installed) date.

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