How to keep 12V outlets alive?

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VegasRanger

VegasRanger

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I used Forscan and changed the Power Point timeout timer from the factory 75 minute setting to 18 hours so my dash cam would work in parking mode over night. Works perfect.
I can confirm mine has been working also. I set mine to 12 hours.
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I have an inline SWR and Wattmeter and it shows 1:1.4 and 23.4 watts, which is within error, having a little trouble getting the SWR down to 1:1
Been messing with the radio today all day. Amazing radio, especially for the price.

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TimmyB

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Not to be snarky, but... Use the search Luke!

So I checked my notes and did a quick SEARCH
1650741945876.png

When I used this I set it to always on so my bed lights could be turned on prior to turning ignition on.
And @Ed Venture 's post gives the method to change the time
Thank you for this, with the color coded explanation. I have need to use the 12V for extended periods as our Ranger is actually our toad vehicle behind our MH and I need to power my braking system. There was nothing that I found in the documentation other than 1 = enable, 0 = disable; it didn't say that the "timeout" was what was being enabled, so I thought I had to have it enabled for the powerpoint to work.

I changed it in the "easy mode" as explained above and when I came back to this line of code, sure enough that 1 had turned to a zero. Just for fun, I also put in 3600 seconds and it also changed the first four digits correctly into Hex, 0E10.

The last four digits are 0086, but couldn't find what those related to.

Either way, thanks for the helpful picture. Hopefully, my braking system will stay activated for the duration and I won't have to worry about it next time.
 

P. A. Schilke

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Thank you for this, with the color coded explanation. I have need to use the 12V for extended periods as our Ranger is actually our toad vehicle behind our MH and I need to power my braking system. There was nothing that I found in the documentation other than 1 = enable, 0 = disable; it didn't say that the "timeout" was what was being enabled, so I thought I had to have it enabled for the powerpoint to work.

I changed it in the "easy mode" as explained above and when I came back to this line of code, sure enough that 1 had turned to a zero. Just for fun, I also put in 3600 seconds and it also changed the first four digits correctly into Hex, 0E10.

The last four digits are 0086, but couldn't find what those related to.

Either way, thanks for the helpful picture. Hopefully, my braking system will stay activated for the duration and I won't have to worry about it next time.
Hi Timothy,

I ran a line directly from the battery, fused, to power my Aux brake system when in Towed mode..
No problems and no Foreskin recalibration necessary. Ranger is perfectly happy behind my diesel pusher Alfa...as my 2007 Ranger, which logged about 97,000 miles behind the Alfa... I do not have a charge line from the Motorhome either...Never was necessary...

Best,
Phil
 


TimmyB

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Hi Timothy,

I ran a line directly from the battery, fused, to power my Aux brake system when in Towed mode..
No problems and no Foreskin recalibration necessary. Ranger is perfectly happy behind my diesel pusher Alfa...as my 2007 Ranger, which logged about 97,000 miles behind the Alfa... I do not have a charge line from the Motorhome either...Never was necessary...

Best,
Phil
Hi, Phil. I had seen that before but wasn't exactly sure what I was doing, especially with getting the line through the firewall. I would like to do that option if I had a better handle on running (and fusing) the wire.

Thanks!
 

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Hi, Phil. I had seen that before but wasn't exactly sure what I was doing, especially with getting the line through the firewall. I would like to do that option if I had a better handle on running (and fusing) the wire.

Thanks!
Hi Timothy,

I started with a in line fuse purchased at my local True Value Hardware...12 gauge wire. One end has a Terminal Supply large eyelet crimped and heat shrink to the wire and secured to the + battery terminal. Other end of the inline fuse has a Terminal Supply 12 gauge butt splice to a 12 gauge wire of sufficient length which I ran in a small flexible conduit to the wiring grommet on the left hand side of the dash panel. I used a hollow tube wiring punch (covered in another thread on these Forums. Ran the wire inside across the dash to the center console and under the console to the seat where it terminated as the + side of a cigar socket. The negative side of the socket was grounded to the inside seat to floor bolt. I also put a small switch on the + wire at the cigar socket to keep the socket live only when in use. Hope this makes sense.

This link may be helpful and shows the tool as well....

https://www.ranger5g.com/forum/threads/lightforce-switch-fascia-and-wiring-thru-firewall.7826/

Best,
Phil
 

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Hi Timothy,

I started with a in line fuse purchased at my local True Value Hardware...12 gauge wire. One end has a Terminal Supply large eyelet crimped and heat shrink to the wire and secured to the + battery terminal. Other end of the inline fuse has a Terminal Supply 12 gauge butt splice to a 12 gauge wire of sufficient length which I ran in a small flexible conduit to the wiring grommet on the left hand side of the dash panel. I used a hollow tube wiring punch (covered in another thread on these Forums. Ran the wire inside across the dash to the center console and under the console to the seat where it terminated as the + side of a cigar socket. The negative side of the socket was grounded to the inside seat to floor bolt. I also put a small switch on the + wire at the cigar socket to keep the socket live only when in use. Hope this makes sense.

This link may be helpful and shows the tool as well....

https://www.ranger5g.com/forum/threads/lightforce-switch-fascia-and-wiring-thru-firewall.7826/

Best,
Phil
Holy smokes, that guy did some serious wiring! That might have scared me more than anything!!! :eek::wink: Looks like I've got a project to try this summer. Thanks, again.
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