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Lightforce Switch Fascia and Wiring Thru Firewall

RangerRaptor

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Pics of the install and wiring from cab to engine bay. Lightforce Switch Fascia, Custom Relay Box, (2) Vision X Light Cannons, (1) Rigid Midnight Edition RDS 30", (1) Rigid Amber E-Series 20", (4) Rigid D2 Driving Pros, (2) Rigid SR-M Series Flood 4". Plus (2) Rigid SR-Q wired into reverse lights.

The $10 Wire Insertion Tool was the key to this easy install (easier than I expected, but not for a beginner).

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ACon99

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This is fantastic. Thanks for taking the time to put this together. I'm about to do similar but more simplified wiring using the same lightforce fascia but only one switch (so far). Did you run those six yellow wires from cab to relay?

I'm trying to figure out what I need to buy to make this possible... I've never done automotive wiring before. I guess I assumed there would be a hot wire somewhere in the cab I could connect my switch to somehow.

Also, how did you get the lighting?

Thanks in advance as ill be studying your great pictures like crazy.
 

dmeyer302

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ACon99

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Thanks so much!

I've seen a number of threads on this fascia, but trying to put together all the detail. Sounds like there's no way to avoid running wiring with the Lightforce solution. I'm putting on 4 Bajas Designs Squadron Sport lights on the lower bumper.

I'm thinking I should be running all 6 main power wires (maximum of 6 buttons on the fascia) at once and then capping off the 5 I won't be using just so future wiring won't be as challenging if I ever to decide to do that.

I did buy the wiring tool from Amazon suggested above.

The harness I'm going to build off was supplied by Baja Designs with the kit and has an in-line fuse, so I'm also thinking I can just cut off the included switch and use those lines to wire to the new switch in the lightforce fascia without having to go to the steering wheel fuses. It should also have a relay on it. I'm honestly not even sure how relays work quite yet, but based on some limited research, it looks like they allow a high amp circuit to be switched with a low amp circuit. I found this video super helpful.

I'll need to put in-line fuses or link to the main engine fusebox for any of the additional wires in the future.

What gauge wiring are you using for main power? (leader wire shows 14 gauge above, so maybe the yellows are 18 or 22 gauge?)
Does my basic theory hold up?
 
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tivct

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I put my relay box in the same spot, but ran the wires through the passenger side grommet. MUCH easier to get to. 2-3 bolts moves the coolant bottle out of the way and it's wide-open.
 

DHMag

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Instead of running 6 power wires, you could use 6 wire cable. Less zip ties and easier to stuff into a loom. Also, if space is adequate, you could use a bulkhead connector instead of punching through the boot.

Just ideas for the next person...
 
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RangerRaptor

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This is fantastic. Thanks for taking the time to put this together. I'm about to do similar but more simplified wiring using the same lightforce fascia but only one switch (so far). Did you run those six yellow wires from cab to relay?

I'm trying to figure out what I need to buy to make this possible... I've never done automotive wiring before. I guess I assumed there would be a hot wire somewhere in the cab I could connect my switch to somehow.

Also, how did you get the lighting?

Thanks in advance as ill be studying your great pictures like crazy.
Hi Dale, here’s my answers:

Yes, I did run the 6 yellow wires from the switches to the relays. Here’s a pic of the relay wiring.

6A6D5A7B-A3E8-4BCA-92FD-16F16F03BEB7.jpeg


I did tap into the fuse box in the cab (using fuse taps) for 2 of the wires that come off the switches. One taps into a fuse that only provides power when the truck is running (this powers the backlighting on the switches), the second wire is on a fuse that has constant power (this provides power to the relay when the switch is depressed). I also attached the ground wire from the switches to a ground inside the cab. The trick is to feed the least number of wires thru the firewall.

Automotive wiring using relays can be a little intimidating because there’s lots of wires to deal with, and of course they all have to be perfect. I’ve done this several times before, and I still run into Murphy’s Law. The exact same relays I bought on Amazon 6 times before, had two of the wires colored differently, so none of my lights worked. I traced all my wiring and finally realized the issue.
 
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RangerRaptor

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Thanks so much!

I've seen a number of threads on this fascia, but trying to put together all the detail. Sounds like there's no way to avoid running wiring with the Lightforce solution. I'm putting on 4 Bajas Designs Squadron Sport lights on the lower bumper.

I'm thinking I should be running all 6 main power wires (maximum of 6 buttons on the fascia) at once and then capping off the 5 I won't be using just so future wiring won't be as challenging if I ever to decide to do that.

I did buy the wiring tool from Amazon suggested above.

The harness I'm going to build off was supplied by Baja Designs with the kit and has an in-line fuse, so I'm also thinking I can just cut off the included switch and use those lines to wire to the new switch in the lightforce fascia without having to go to the steering wheel fuses. It should also have a relay on it. I'm honestly not even sure how relays work quite yet, but based on some limited research, it looks like they allow a high amp circuit to be switched with a low amp circuit. I found this video super helpful.

I'll need to put in-line fuses or link to the main engine fusebox for any of the additional wires in the future.

What gauge wiring are you using for main power? (leader wire shows 14 gauge above, so maybe the yellows are 18 or 22 gauge?)
Does my basic theory hold up?
Absolutely run all 6 switch wires thru the firewall and cap off what you don’t need. I used 18 gauge for the low amp wires, and 16 gauge for the higher amp wires. My relay box and high-end fuse block are connected to the battery positive and negative with 6 gauge. Each light has a fuse in the fuse block, and the fuse block has a heavy inline fuse.

If you try and avoid tapping into the fuse panel under the steering wheel, you will need to run 4 wires per switch thru the firewall (ground, constant power, ignition power, and switch/relay). The Baja Designs Squadrons come with a wiring harness that supports 3 wires, not 4 wires. Their switches have constant power, ground, and switch/relay. They do not light up when the truck is turned on - they only light up when the truck is on AND you turn the switch ON. The Lighforce switches have a backlight that’s one color, then they switch color when the light is switched ON.
 

ACon99

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I did tap into the fuse box in the cab (using fuse taps) for 2 of the wires that come off the switches. One taps into a fuse that only provides power when the truck is running (this powers the backlighting on the switches), the second wire is on a fuse that has constant power (this provides power to the relay when the switch is depressed). I also attached the ground wire from the switches to a ground inside the cab. The trick is to feed the least number of wires thru the firewall.
So I'm still drawing out this out on paper and I think I've got everything under the hood organized. My questions come back to the Lightforce switches though. Can you tell me if this makes sense given your instructions?

Wires coming FROM Lightforce switch:
  1. Blue ("12v Power In") - I'm not really sure about this one, but I think your comment about tapping into a fuse with constant power has me questioning which fuse works? I was trying to use this video of the interior fusebox diagram to identify one based on name. Maybe one of the 5Amp Spares work?
  2. Yellow ("12v Switched Power Out") - Connect to one of the six wires coming from the relay under the hood through firewall. This provides power to the aftermarket accessory once switch is engaged.
  3. Red ("From 12v Dash Light Circuit") - Connect to Fuse #35 via Add-a-Fuse tap. This provides power to the switch (including backlight) once truck's ignition is turned on.
  4. Black ("Negative") - Connect to ground somewhere in the cab. Any good thoughts where?
 
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RangerRaptor

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So I'm still drawing out this out on paper and I think I've got everything under the hood organized. My questions come back to the Lightforce switches though. Can you tell me if this makes sense given your instructions?

Wires coming FROM Lightforce switch:
  1. Blue ("12v Power In") - I'm not really sure about this one, but I think your comment about tapping into a fuse with constant power has me questioning which fuse works? I was trying to use this video of the interior fusebox diagram to identify one based on name. Maybe one of the 5Amp Spares work?
  2. Yellow ("12v Switched Power Out") - Connect to one of the six wires coming from the relay under the hood through firewall. This provides power to the aftermarket accessory once switch is engaged.
  3. Red ("From 12v Dash Light Circuit") - Connect to Fuse #35 via Add-a-Fuse tap. This provides power to the switch (including backlight) once truck's ignition is turned on.
  4. Black ("Negative") - Connect to ground somewhere in the cab. Any good thoughts where?
I can grab a picture of where to attach the ground wire. It's one of the bolts that's just to the right of the fuse block. I used fuse taps on 22 and 29. I don't remember which is constant and which is ignition based. The picture below also shows Fuse 26 being used, but that's for my extra USB plug.

Fuse 35 would not work with the fuse tap because the fuse panel protrudes too far out, just to the left of Fuse 35. Fuse 29 doesn't have that problem, and Fuse 22 is on the right side of the fuse block, so there's room for the wire coming out of the fuse tap.

You need 2 different fuse taps; 22 takes a Micro3 three blade fuse, 29 takes a Micro2 two blade fuse.

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ACon99

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I can grab a picture of where to attach the ground wire. It's one of the bolts that's just to the right of the fuse block. I used fuse taps on 22 and 29. I don't remember which is constant and which is ignition based. The picture below also shows Fuse 26 being used, but that's for my extra USB plug.

Fuse 35 would not work with the fuse tap because the fuse panel protrudes too far out, just to the left of Fuse 35. Fuse 29 doesn't have that problem, and Fuse 22 is on the right side of the fuse block, so there's room for the wire coming out of the fuse tap.

You need 2 different fuse taps; 22 takes a Micro3 three blade fuse, 29 takes a Micro2 two blade fuse.

IMG_0839.jpg


IMG_0840.jpg
SUPER helpful! Thank you for being so clear - particularly with the fuse tap types as I was about to go in a different direction.
 
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SUPER helpful! Thank you for being so clear - particularly with the fuse tap types as I was about to go in a different direction.
Most of the fuse taps are cheap pieces of shit! The slots are SUPER tight, and the fuse blades are too thick where the plastic covers them. Most people have to grind or file down the plastic so the fuse will go into and stay in your fuse block. It’s ridiculous the Chinese junk they sell. Amazon or your local parts store - all cheap import crap. But a little elbow grease and you’ll be fine.
 

ACon99

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Most of the fuse taps are cheap pieces of shit! The slots are SUPER tight, and the fuse blades are too thick where the plastic covers them. Most people have to grind or file down the plastic so the fuse will go into and stay in your fuse block. It’s ridiculous the Chinese junk they sell. Amazon or your local parts store - all cheap import crap. But a little elbow grease and you’ll be fine.
That's consistent with what I read on the Amazon reviews for the Fuse taps I was looking at. Funny enough, they're not exactly the easiest parts to source without getting a whole bunch of extra mumbo jumbo I won't need. At least they're fairly cheap (although really expensive for what I imagine they cost to manufacture).
 

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@RangerRaptor Please forgive me, I know enough about electrical to burn something down. I have ordered a micro 2 blade and a micro 3 blade fuse tap that will be here on Monday. I'm working on installing a LightForce Switch Fascia and I'm going to be running a dual USB port through one of my LightForce switch locations and then two LightForce switches on the other two switch locations. Can I run the power for the switch back-lighting to both of the LightForce switches off the same micro 2 blade fuse tap and then run my USB port through the micro 3 blade fuse tap? What amp fuses would you recommend I use in the fuse taps?

THANK YOU!! I am thankful for any help you can give me!
 

dmeyer302

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@RangerRaptor Please forgive me, I know enough about electrical to burn something down. I have ordered a micro 2 blade and a micro 3 blade fuse tap that will be here on Monday. I'm working on installing a LightForce Switch Fascia and I'm going to be running a dual USB port through one of my LightForce switch locations and then two LightForce switches on the other two switch locations. Can I run the power for the switch back-lighting to both of the LightForce switches off the same micro 2 blade fuse tap and then run my USB port through the micro 3 blade fuse tap? What amp fuses would you recommend I use in the fuse taps?

THANK YOU!! I am thankful for any help you can give me!
I would be comfortable running all of that off of the same fuse. 10A is probably good. Go with whatever recommendation is given for the USB charger. The two backlights will be practically no draw in comparison to the charger.
 

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