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Global multi leaf rear spring, anybody know spring design?

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Fitzmotor

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Those who wanted the extra height most likely would have left it, or if they didn't want to mess with it.
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OK, for those that used the Rough Country Bolts....what torque setting did you use. The supplied nuts have the plastic insert. I could never get proper torque reading and it felt like was just going and going....and popped the plate off of the driver's side. I loosened the U-Bolts and the spring clamps are just hanging there. Looks like the Global Spring springs are separated a bit. So basically have to start over on the driver side.

Going to jack it up...take the driver's side wheel off and take/post a picture.

Should I jack it up at the rear diff?

On the bright side, I did get the new bump stops on with out any issue.

Update: Got it figured out. Even with my brother's help (he is more mechanically inclined than I) we managed to do a jv move (I'm too embarrassed to share).

Everything is seated correctly and torqued down....at least to Harbor Freight quality. Will drive it around in the afternoon.....hopefully it stays together.
 
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OK, for those that used the Rough Country Bolts....what torque setting did you use. The supplied nuts have the plastic insert. I could never get proper torque reading and it felt like was just going and going....and popped the plate off of the driver's side. I loosened the U-Bolts and the spring clamps are just hanging there. Looks like the Global Spring springs are separated a bit. So basically have to start over on the driver side.

Going to jack it up...take the driver's side wheel off and take/post a picture.

Should I jack it up at the rear diff?

On the bright side, I did get the new bump stops on with out any issue.

Update: Got it figured out. Even with my brother's help (he is more mechanically inclined than I) we managed to do a jv move (I'm too embarrassed to share).

Everything is seated correctly and torqued down....at least to Harbor Freight quality. Will drive it around in the afternoon.....hopefully it stays together.
We won't judge you....none of us have ever done embarrassing things...

Says the guy who didn't read the torque specs on his subi strut tops and sheared the bolts off... And the guy who cross thread 3 of his 5 wheel studs on a car and had to drill them out after driving around for a week with 3 wheel studs on his front left wheel... ?
 

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The passenger side guide pin looks to be fully seated. The driver's side does not (see picture: pin is on the right hole). With the extra spacer on the driver's side, I understand the pin would be a bit shorter. Does this look to be ok (my brother said it felt like it seated when we did the install)?

Everything is torqued down. If it is not fully seated, is it ok to drive until I can get a longer guide pin ?

leafgp.jpg
 
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That looks in, it just does not have a lot of engagement, once the bolts U are tight, you are good, it's not going anywhere.
 


dapakattack

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Hello All,

Took my Ranger into Discount Tire for an alignment (yes, some of them are doing alignments now). I got some of the STX wheels and the 18" tires that came with the seller's truck (6k mile Dueller H/Ts) and thought it would be good to get an alignment done.
These are the results I got (no adjustments were made....this was just a diagnosis):

Alignment082024.webp

The tech was telling me that the Rear Toe's need to be adjusted, but that a Thrust Angle alignment would need to be done. I was thinking of taking it into Ford and having them do an alignment that includes thrust angle adjustment. I can have it done for around $230. Do I need it? Would the Ford Dealership give me a hard time because I have the Global Leafs?
 

dapakattack

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Discount Tire told me that they didn't have the equipment to adjust the lane keeping, so I ended up taking it to a Ford Dealership. Since the Thrust Angle was within Spec, they performed a 4 Wheel alignment instead. Here are their results:
AlignmentFord08122024b.jpg


They were able to get the front toe within spec. Total Toe is about the same between the DT (see post above) and Ford readings, but why are the right toe numbers so different?

Also, shouldn't the Rear Toe numbers at least be within the same tolerances as the front? Would a Thrust Angle Alignment that read closer to 0 have brought those Toe Numbers more in line? If not, what can be done to get the Rear Toes closer to spec?
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