First time towing a Travel Trailer (before i buy)

ztbird

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I keep trying to find lighter and lighter trailers. I am listening to everyone. I have made several cuts. I went from 5850 pounds to 5146 ( I had the dealer go and take a picture of the label and it says 5146). I also reduced the size from 28 to 23-24. I had a shorter one, but I was told it's better to go with less weight and not as much length.


https://www.bestrv.com/New-Inventory-2020-Keystone-RV-Trailer-Bullet-243BHSWE-8160659?ref=list
That trailer isn't much different from my Rockwood 2104S, just a little longer and has a bunk house. My post history has extensive details on weights/hitch and getting shit to feel alright while driving if you want to go read them, but they're not my final and up-to-date numbers.

I'm using a 10k/1k equilizer, tongue weight with battery and 2x 30lb propane tanks (full) is 614lb (~4800lb total unloaded trailer wieght). Fully loaded to camp (dry water tanks) I'm at around 5300lb on the trailer and 700lb tongue (subtracting the EQ hitch, weighed with it on but not engaged), a hair under 10k GCVWR. It drives a little bouncy with the trailer attached but even when Semi's have passed me on 65 mph 2 laned-no divider roads, I was able to keep it in my lane. I keep it to a MAX of 62-63 mph in perfect conditions. If it starts raining or the crosswinds get above 10-12 mph, slow down a bit.

I would just go drive it around town and on the interstate with just you before you take your family on a trip so that you're used to it before you add the risk (read: stress) of spouse and mini-me.

Bonus note: whoever does the cooking for your family will love that L-shaped kitchen. I love cooking and I actually prefer the camper to my apartment (though mostly because it's a gas stove vs electric...).
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Timothy Farley

Timothy Farley

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That trailer isn't much different from my Rockwood 2104S, just a little longer and has a bunk house. My post history has extensive details on weights/hitch and getting shit to feel alright while driving if you want to go read them, but they're not my final and up-to-date numbers.

I'm using a 10k/1k equilizer, tongue weight with battery and 2x 30lb propane tanks (full) is 614lb (~4800lb total unloaded trailer wieght). Fully loaded to camp (dry water tanks) I'm at around 5300lb on the trailer and 700lb tongue (subtracting the EQ hitch, weighed with it on but not engaged), a hair under 10k GCVWR. It drives a little bouncy with the trailer attached but even when Semi's have passed me on 65 mph 2 laned-no divider roads, I was able to keep it in my lane. I keep it to a MAX of 62-63 mph in perfect conditions. If it starts raining or the crosswinds get above 10-12 mph, slow down a bit.

I would just go drive it around town and on the interstate with just you before you take your family on a trip so that you're used to it before you add the risk (read: stress) of spouse and mini-me.

Bonus note: whoever does the cooking for your family will love that L-shaped kitchen. I love cooking and I actually prefer the camper to my apartment (though mostly because it's a gas stove vs electric...).

Thank you for your post. Your hitch weight is 614 and the one I am looking at currently is (below). The hitch weight is 626 on the one I am looking at. So the same as yours basically. Your total dry weight is about 300 less on yours. Over all that's close.

I think the hitch weight is what currently I am worried about. So the 614 number is that with full tanks, Battey and Equalizer, because I am being told the number on the website is dry. You need to add all of that. If theory the Equalizer should reduce that since it shifts weight to the axle.



https://www.bestrv.com/New-Inventor...245BHS-Forest-River-Surveyor-8159661?ref=list
 

VAMike

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I hesitate to bring this up as it may sow confusion but that 750lb max tongue weight rating on the receiver hitch does not apply when using it with a weight distributing hitch. (Internet searching is your friend) The 750 lb max applies when used with a conventional hitch, when used with a weight distributing hitch it will be higher.
That is not correct for this truck.
 


Texasota

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Given these considerations:
  1. your in-laws are buying this RV for you (I think I remember you saying this earlier) which makes you one very lucky guy
  2. you are having to make downsizing compromises on your RV choice that you are reluctant to do
  3. your downsized RV seems to still be pushing (or exceeding) the limits of your Ranger
maybe you need to seriously consider that your Ranger is not the right tow vehicle for your dream RV. Why not consider trading it in on an F-150 or similar vehicle that can better tow the RV you want?

I'm not an RVer but want to throw out another thing to consider. I suspect many/most RVers cut their teeth on much smaller RVs and acquire bigger ones as their RVing skills and knowledge grows. Kind of like buying a starter home and working up to the dream home.
 

ztbird

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Thank you for your post. Your hitch weight is 614 and the one I am looking at currently is (below). The hitch weight is 626 on the one I am looking at. So the same as yours basically. Your total dry weight is about 300 less on yours. Over all that's close.

I think the hitch weight is what currently I am worried about. So the 614 number is that with full tanks, Battey and Equalizer, because I am being told the number on the website is dry. You need to add all of that. If theory the Equalizer should reduce that since it shifts weight to the axle.



https://www.bestrv.com/New-Inventor...245BHS-Forest-River-Surveyor-8159661?ref=list
The dry weight depends on manufacturer. The rockwood website said the 614 included both 30LP gas tanks full and didn't mention the battery at all. My personal CAT scale experience tells me it included the battery.

Also to make sure this is clear, the 614 is with full PROPANE tanks. Water tanks (fresh/gray/black) were all empty.

Your manufacturer may be different; there's no standard. Worst case scenario with that trailer, you have to put the LP tanks in your truck bed when you drive. That's what I have to do if I want to take a full water tank somewhere to keep the tongue under 750.
 
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Timothy Farley

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Given these considerations:
  1. your in-laws are buying this RV for you (I think I remember you saying this earlier) which makes you one very lucky guy
  2. you are having to make downsizing compromises on your RV choice that you are reluctant to do
  3. your downsized RV seems to still be pushing (or exceeding) the limits of your Ranger
maybe you need to seriously consider that your Ranger is not the right tow vehicle for your dream RV. Why not consider trading it in on an F-150 or similar vehicle that can better tow the RV you want?

I'm not an RVer but want to throw out another thing to consider. I suspect many/most RVers cut their teeth on much smaller RVs and acquire bigger ones as their RVing skills and knowledge grows. Kind of like buying a starter home and working up to the dream home.

I just got my Ranger 8 weeks ago. The trailer we just found out about. My wife's parents are well off but this gift was only because my wife's sister needed help financially. So they wanted to make sure they didn't play favorites. It's a special thing. Not a every day. We had no idea this was going to happen. Also I could kiss the trailer good bye if I bought a new truck. He would say I am too wasteful and plus he is not going to pay for the amount I would be upside down. Now on to the important stuff.

1. The trailer weights 2300 pounds less the the max. That's 1\3 of the towing weight extra.
2. The hitch weight is the only thing close. I have been told by multiple people I am good and at that I still have over 150 pounds extra. With a Equalizer I should be more then good.
3. Looking at the numbers how the heck am I exceeding what Ford recommend. Show me with Marh, what I am exceeding. I literally provide the numbers for the batteries, tanks etc. All under Ford's max, one is over 2,000 pounds less (how is that close?).
4. Please read the SAE J2807 rules. You can max out everything and you are still safe. They build a huge reserve in now because the law. Did you know it can actually tow 8500 pounds without issue. They were forced to lower it because if someone goes over a little bit with out knowing they will be ok. Yes in the old days this was an issue. I suggest you read how the test are done.

Thank you ZTBird

Edit:
Since some people got the idea that we got lucky to get it free, I paid for it years ago. Yes its free now, but there is more to the story.
 
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VAMike

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Can you elaborate?
Ford gives the ranger the same limits with or without wd hitch.

Some people seem to think a wd hitch is like magic dust that you should sprinkle on top of every trailer. It isn't, and you should only use one when it's needed. You can actually make things worse (not enough force on the rear wheels and squirmy handling) if you over-do the wd.
 

ztbird

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I just got my Ranger 8 weeks ago. The trailer we just found out about. My wife's parents are well off but this gift was only because my wife's sister needed help financially. So they wanted to make sure they didn't play favorites. It's a special thing. Not a every day. We had no idea this was going to happen. Also I could kiss the trailer good bye if I bought a new truck. He would say I am too wasteful and plus he is not going to pay for the amount I would be upside down. Now on to the important stuff.

1. The trailer weights 2300 pounds less the the max. That's 1\3 of the towing weight extra.
2. The hitch weight is the only thing close. I have been told by multiple people I am good and at that I still have over 150 pounds extra. With a Equalizer I should be more then good.
3. Looking at the numbers how the heck am I exceeding what Ford recommend. Show me with Marh, what I am exceeding. I literally provide the numbers for the batteries, tanks etc. All under Ford's max, one is over 2,000 pounds less (how is that close?).
4. Please read the SAE J2807 rules. You can max out everything and you are still safe. They build a huge reserve in now because the law. Did you know it can actually tow 8500 pounds without issue. They were forced to lower it because if someone goes over a little bit with out knowing they will be ok. Yes in the old days this was an issue. I suggest you read how the test are done.

Thank you ZTBird

Edit:
Since some people got the idea that we got lucky to get it free, I paid for it years ago. Yes its free now, but there is more to the story.
One more note, if you want to be super-safe with the weights: the Geo Pro series has some bunk-house style RVs with hitch weights under 500lb. I.E. the G20BHS. That line is what I was comparing against the 2104s/2109
 
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Timothy Farley

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One more note, if you want to be super-safe with the weights: the Geo Pro series has some bunk-house style RVs with hitch weights under 500lb. I.E. the G20BHS.
Thanks I will look them up.
 

J Haggerty (RADAR1)

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Thank you for your post. Your hitch weight is 614 and the one I am looking at currently is (below). The hitch weight is 626 on the one I am looking at. So the same as yours basically. Your total dry weight is about 300 less on yours. Over all that's close.

I think the hitch weight is what currently I am worried about. So the 614 number is that with full tanks, Battey and Equalizer, because I am being told the number on the website is dry. You need to add all of that. If theory the Equalizer should reduce that since it shifts weight to the axle.



https://www.bestrv.com/New-Inventor...245BHS-Forest-River-Surveyor-8159661?ref=list
Your link shows a hitch weight of 630 lbs in the specifications. Assuming that's the "dry" hitch weight, then you will also need to add the weight of the propane, plus your weight distribution hitch weight to that. If you carry anything at all in the camper, then a percentage of that weight needs to be also added to your hitch weight. As you can see, adding all that will put you either very close to the 750 lb maximum, or put you over.
All that weight also needs to be subtracted from your payload, which will reduce what you can carry in the truck (fuel, passengers, cargo). Do you plan to take bikes? If so, where will they be, on the camper adding weight there, or in the truck reducing your payload? Grills and cookware?
Actually, you can tow anything you want as long as you don't exceed the limits advertised by the manufacturer, but the closer you get to those limits the more uncomfortable you will be with the towing experience, and the more strain your vehicle will be under while towing.
As for the length of the camper, Keystone says in their data that the length they use is from the ball to the rear bumper. Length probably won't be an issue except in crosswinds and in turning/maneuvering and trying to fit in a specified space.
 
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Timothy Farley

Timothy Farley

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Your link shows a hitch weight of 630 lbs in the specifications. Assuming that's the "dry" hitch weight, then you will also need to add the weight of the propane, plus your weight distribution hitch weight to that. If you carry anything at all in the camper, then a percentage of that weight needs to be also added to your hitch weight. As you can see, adding all that will put you either very close to the 750 lb maximum, or put you over.
All that weight also needs to be subtracted from your payload, which will reduce what you can carry in the truck (fuel, passengers, cargo). Do you plan to take bikes? If so, where will they be, on the camper adding weight there, or in the truck reducing your payload? Grills and cookware?
Actually, you can tow anything you want as long as you don't exceed the limits advertised by the manufacturer, but the closer you get to those limits the more uncomfortable you will be with the towing experience, and the more strain your vehicle will be under while towing.
As for the length of the camper, Keystone says in their data that the length they use is from the ball to the rear bumper. Length probably won't be an issue except in crosswinds and in turning/maneuvering and trying to fit in a specified space.

A page or so ago I went through that. I was told that on the trailer I was looking at that included empty tanks in the number. I also am looking to get a Lithium battery which removes alot of weight. I wont be taking much gear. Clothes and food. Some fishing stuff and thats about it. I am working on find a trailer with a lower hitch weight. Below is the new one. The hitch is 526 pounds.

Trailer
https://www.keystonerv.com/travel-trailers/passport/floorplans/240bhwe-sl-series-travel-trailer/
or
https://www.nohrsrv.com/default.asp...ength=25-29&weight=4001-7500&fr=xnewinventory


I bought this to make sure the dealer is not lying about weight. What does everyone think?
https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B07DQ44JFB/ref=ox_sc_act_title_1?smid=A2UTF8CYVE1N9F&psc=1
 
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Str8sh0otr

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I bought this to make sure the dealer is not lying about weight. What does everyone think?
Jeeze Louise. 5 pages of this thread, just take the trailer you want to buy to a scale. If the dealer cant let you do that, they cant have a sale, simple. The dealership is not lying to you....they dont know exactly what it weighs. Neither does that gadget you just bought. You would have been better off to spend that money on a tongue weight scale. Then each time you load it up you can check and adjust your load.

I will agree that there is no reason that the ranger should be deemed unsafe if towing within its limits. I push it with my boat but I took it to a cat scale, have all the info and have good brakes on both axles. People like you who are trying to do the right thing are (generally) not the problem on the road.

Just weight the damn thing, make the decision with all the info and then you can tune out the online forum weight police.
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