Engine-bay fuse taps - what to tap?

[d0xyl]

I have an Auxbeam switch/controller system that I need to connect to an ignition-only fuse in order to detect if the car is on or not. The tap is only for detection and not for pulling any current through. I would highly prefer to use a fuse in the engine bay instead of in the cab, as I would have to run another cable through the firewall and it was a PITA to get the first one through.

I've been looking at this diagram to find out what each fuse is for:

• https://www.startmycar.com/us/ford/ranger/info/fusebox/2022#anchorfusebox0
• https://fuse-box.info/ford/ford-ranger-2019-fuses-and-relays

I noticed there are some 5A/10A fuse types that are marked "unused", and in my own fuse box, they do not have a fuse in them. But they also do not have the terminals installed in them easier, so if I put a fuse in there it does not actually make a connection with anything. Is this expected? Is it easy to install the female connectors in the actual box to then install my own fuse into?

Other than that, I saw some people say to tap into the 7.5A USB charge port fuse (#29), but not only was I reading 0.05-0.06 while the car was off (is this normal?) it also did not drop from 12V after 5 minutes of the car being off. Is the USB charge port on some sort of timer and it will eventually turn off after 5 - 10 minutes?

The only other fuse I could tap (due to clearance/room) was #28, which is the "powertrain control module" (10A), but I'm not experienced to know enough if I should be tapping something that sounds important. This tap is only detecting current, it is not pulling anything over this tap, so I expect it should be fine?

So I'm wondering what my options are...

1. Keep tapping #28, the powertrain control module
2. If #29, the USB charge port, does actually turn off eventually, I would prefer to use this one
3. If it's easy to install the female connectors, I could do that and then tap into an "unused" fuse location
4. Any other suggestions?

Refs

• This person says to use #35, but this is internal to the cab. Most posts I looked at say this but it's all internal to the cab
• This person says #29, but as I explained above I measured 12V when the car was off for 5 min

Sponsored

 

[k1w1t1m]

I used this one. You can see the tap. It is hot when the ignition is on. I powered my GMRS radio this way until I moved it to inside the cab.

 

[Colo_Ranger]

https://www.ranger5g.com/forum/threads/help-me-install-my-tacky-light-✨️😎.29608/post-742469

 

[SDXLT]

I’m using #21 I couldn’t get #29 to work. I used Velcro cable management straps to put the fuse on top of the battery and mounted the circuit panel in front of the battery. Not the best spot if you want to add a drivers side catch can as they mostly mount there.

 

[Frenchy]

You are making this more complicated than it has to be. Get a DMM and check the fuses with the Key Off and then Key On. This will tell you what does what so you can tap the correct fuse

 

[airline tech]

I have an Auxbeam switch/controller system that I need to connect to an ignition-only fuse in order to detect if the car is on or not. The tap is only for detection and not for pulling any current through. I would highly prefer to use a fuse in the engine bay instead of in the cab, as I would have to run another cable through the firewall and it was a PITA to get the first one through.

I've been looking at this diagram to find out what each fuse is for:

• https://www.startmycar.com/us/ford/ranger/info/fusebox/2022#anchorfusebox0
• https://fuse-box.info/ford/ford-ranger-2019-fuses-and-relays

I noticed there are some 5A/10A fuse types that are marked "unused", and in my own fuse box, they do not have a fuse in them. But they also do not have the terminals installed in them easier, so if I put a fuse in there it does not actually make a connection with anything. Is this expected? Is it easy to install the female connectors in the actual box to then install my own fuse into?

Other than that, I saw some people say to tap into the 7.5A USB charge port fuse (#29), but not only was I reading 0.05-0.06 while the car was off (is this normal?) it also did not drop from 12V after 5 minutes of the car being off. Is the USB charge port on some sort of timer and it will eventually turn off after 5 - 10 minutes?

The only other fuse I could tap (due to clearance/room) was #28, which is the "powertrain control module" (10A), but I'm not experienced to know enough if I should be tapping something that sounds important. This tap is only detecting current, it is not pulling anything over this tap, so I expect it should be fine?

So I'm wondering what my options are...

1. Keep tapping #28, the powertrain control module
2. If #29, the USB charge port, does actually turn off eventually, I would prefer to use this one
3. If it's easy to install the female connectors, I could do that and then tap into an "unused" fuse location
4. Any other suggestions?

Refs

• This person says to use #35, but this is internal to the cab. Most posts I looked at say this but it's all internal to the cab
• This person says #29, but as I explained above I measured 12V when the car was off for 5 min

The BJB is not a normal (old school) fuse box - it's a PCB, so no you cannot just add the female connectors (easily)
Fuse #29 is (ALWAYS HOT) and Times out @ Factory Set 75-Minutes

All Unused in the BJB - will be empty slots (No Contacts) for I believe all Rangers

 

[SDXLT]

I checked mine again and I’m in #19 which is power steering. Works fine. Would prefer to use 29 so I could have lights run with ignition of but not totally drain the battery if I forget to turn them off. Tried ordering different taps off Amazon but naturally the picture didn’t match what was sent and I don’t want to cut that box.

 

[pickettf3nce]

I checked mine again and I’m in #19 which is power steering. Works fine. Would prefer to use 29 so I could have lights run with ignition of but not totally drain the battery if I forget to turn them off. Tried ordering different taps off Amazon but naturally the picture didn’t match what was sent and I don’t want to cut that box.

Hey Josh, did you get an Auxbeam relay with a wired controller?

If so, where did you run the wire through the firewall—driver's footwell? Also, would you mind sharing pictures of where and how you mounted the controller in the cab?

 

[SDXLT]

Yes it’s the wired controller that doesn’t change colors or flash the lights. I ran through the grommet in the firewall. It was easy this time as I had already run a wire for a previous install this replaced. I just used Velcro and it’s pretty easily accessible and easily moved if needed.

 

[pickettf3nce]

Yes it’s the wired controller that doesn’t change colors or flash the lights. I ran through the grommet in the firewall. It was easy this time as I had already run a wire for a previous install this replaced. I just used Velcro and it’s pretty easily accessible and easily moved if needed.

That’s a clean in-cab setup! The controller fits surprisingly well in the console.

Thanks for the quick reply and great pics!

 

[SDXLT]

Thanks! I looked into the wireless and the reviews were mixed. I saw the connector size on the Auxbeam and to run 1 wire for up to 6 switches it was a no brainer. Add to that the circuit box and the main fuse toggle and I was sold. I kind of wish I spent the additional for the upgraded controller but I think I can add that later using the existing wiring and circuit panel and then sell the old one.

I have aspirations to design a 3D printed cradle for it so I can have it be a little more custom but it works for now.

 

[adv_ranger]

I used this one. You can see the tap. It is hot when the ignition is on. I powered my GMRS radio this way until I moved it to inside the cab.

This looks to be fuse #22 which is air/conditioning. I need to tap a fuse for my trigger controller so I only run power to it when the vehicle is on. How has this been working for you?

 

[k1w1t1m]

This looks to be fuse #22 which is air/conditioning. I need to tap a fuse for my trigger controller so I only run power to it when the vehicle is on. How has this been working for you?

It is this one... It is hot when the key is on. I moved my radio feed to the inside fuse box but that one worked well.
I really would like a power feed that is hot when the radio is hot.

 

[adv_ranger]

It is this one... It is hot when the key is on. I moved my radio feed to the inside fuse box but that one worked well.
I really would like a power feed that is hot when the radio is hot.

Ok looks like this is #24 which is not used for anything. Smart to tap this one. So I assume this is only powered when ignition is on?

 

[adv_ranger]

It is this one... It is hot when the key is on. I moved my radio feed to the inside fuse box but that one worked well.
I really would like a power feed that is hot when the radio is hot.

Also was curious if these are the fuse taps you're using.... https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B08G1KPX7W/ref=ewc_pr_img_1?smid=ATVPDKIKX0DER&th=1

Sponsored