DIY: Adding the 12V Power Outlet Option in the Bed

Figarou

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I still have my B&D Storm Station. When the battery won't hold a charge anymore, I get a replacement from my local Interstate Battery location. It is the same battery used by emergency lighting fixtures. I would think that you can probably do the same thing with just about any thing that has a battery. Although some times it is cheaper and/or more practical to buy a new item.
I had an older model power station. It can start your car when the car batteries are low, add air to the tires, has a work light, 110 volt outlet, and a 12 volt socket.

I tried to take it apart to see if I can exchange the battery inside. Ended up messing it up while taking it apart. Oh well.
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Apples

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Something you all need to know.

This bed socket is indeed fused at 30 amps. However, drawing 30 amps, useing a common accessory socket plug, the positive contact surface of these plugs, is barely 1/16 square inch; about the size of a standard pin head. That contact is held in place by a spring-shaped conductor, whose wire size isn't any bigger than the contact area. Drawing high current will cause this contact patch to heat up, which can cause the wire feeding the socket to fail with predictable results.

Here is what the National Fire Protection Association, sub-section 15-3.2.1 reads:

Overloaded Wiring. Unintended high-resistance faults in wiring can raise the conductor temperature to the ignition point of the insulation, particularly in bundled cables such as the wiring harnesses or the accessory wiring under the dash where the heat generated is not readily dissipated. This can occur without activating the circuit protection.
The bottom line is here is... Forewarned, is forearmed!
 

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Something you all need to know.

This bed socket is indeed fused at 30 amps. However, drawing 30 amps, useing a common accessory socket plug, the positive contact surface of these plugs, is barely 1/16 square inch; about the size of a standard pin head. That contact is held in place by a spring-shaped conductor, whose wire size isn't any bigger than the contact area. Drawing high current will cause this contact patch to heat up, which can cause the wire feeding the socket to fail with predictable results.

Here is what the National Fire Protection Association, sub-section 15-3.2.1 reads:


The bottom line is here is... Forewarned, is forearmed!
20A (Fuse 17 in the engine bay fuse box). The marine style plugs while convenient are annoying. I think that's why normally they are lower amperage. Direct wire or those battery terminal style connectors are always better. All the wiring to the fuse box is at least rated and built for the full 20A load. Also, at 12V (13-14V in operation) 20A is only ~240-280 Watts of of heat to dissipate. This does limit the size of inverter you can use though.
 

Racket

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Okay,
Check this kit for a 12v outlet - https://wolfhaus01.square.site/ . Hole and plug are already in the truck, took me about 10 minutes to install the kit! I recommend it very highly!! (Click on the Shop Now button to see the options available).
Okay, something ELSE I didn't know I 'needed' until now. (Sigh)
 

4g63det

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Dumby Plug socket hack
1) Find an old bulb kicking around
2) Cut the plastic around the pins away and cut the pins off as far back as possible.
3) Drill 2 small holes in the pins
4) Solder your wires to the pins
5) Press them into the dumby plug and silicone around the wires where they enter the plug housing.
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Johnv1991

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Got my wolf haus kit yesterday. If it took me 10 minutes that was a long time. Not sure how often I will end up using it but for the price and ease of installation it was worth the money and will come in handy when I need to use it. Definitely recommend this option.
 

4g63det

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Got my wolf haus kit yesterday. If it took me 10 minutes that was a long time. Not sure how often I will end up using it but for the price and ease of installation it was worth the money and will come in handy when I need to use it. Definitely recommend this option.
I looked at that setup and thats what gave me the idea. I have a drop in bedliner so I dont think it would look as clean. Also like the plug closer to the back of the truck for ease of use.
 

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Installed the power outlet yesterday. Now I can back the truck up to the kayak launch area, pull the inflatable out and fill it from the bed with my electric pump. The screws were on back order and expensive, so a quick trip to my local hardware store got me the (4) M5x20 screws for a fraction of the cost.
 

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So I'm gathering the parts to put the factory 12v socket in, when I do a search for the part number (7a2Z-19N236-A) The results I keep getting are for the 110v socket, not the 12v?
 

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So I'm gathering the parts to put the factory 12v socket in, when I do a search for the part number (7a2Z-19N236-A) The results I keep getting are for the 110v socket, not the 12v?
There is no 110V option for the Ranger. The socket assembly and all that related stuff is 12V. The only way to get 110V with the OEM options are to add an inverter. (You can also add 12V to the bed without cutting and drilling via third party options.)
 

Davejb

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I understand that, but the part number search brings up a 110v socket, I can't find the 12v socket using that part number.
 

WLFPIR8

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Adventure Ranger

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I
As I posted in another thread. I have ordered (what I and a dealer parts guy) think is needed to add the outlet. Including hardware and the sub-harness. I will post pics of the install and part numbers to those interested. Waiting on parts from Detroit. Just a FYI drilling is required.

NOTE: 19N236B in the diagram below is not the correct part number. Should be 19N236A. See post #3 below for correct part numbers and quantities.

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I installed the 12V plug in the box on my Lariat, same as you did and works & looks great. Being in Canada the parts are much more $$$. I didn't go with the bolts and clips as they came to $20.00 per hole (x4) so I just used machine screws and lock nuts behind it, I was able to get my arm up from below and had no trouble getting the nuts on the screws.
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