ControlNode's overboard Radio install

[Racket]

When I thought of non-destructive ways to mount stuff my first thought was to somehow integrate something like this - but seeing the bed racks made me think not so much.

I like how you all are utilizing factory access points. Takes me back to my days as an installer.

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[t4thfavor]

There’s a manufacturer that makes a third brake light mount for antennas it just moves back your light a couple inches and adds a spot to mount an Nmo or so239.

 

[Msfitoy]

https://bulletproofdiesel.com/colle...antenna-mount-ford-trucks-rigid-leds-90201174

https://www.ranger5g.com/forum/thre...-antenna-mount-on-your-new-ranger.1625/page-5

 

[Trigganometry]

I finally got free time on vacation to work on the truck again. I got the speaker leads to the dash from the radio, wired in the 3.5mm jacks on that wire at the radio end for the 2 3.5mm patch cables. The at the dash put a 4Ω resistor in line with the Lariat 4Ω speaker center speaker to get the 8Ω load the radio wants for its external speaker. Installed of that that with the Lariat dash trim and the radio is WAY easier to hear now.

That’s not how ohms law works. With 2- 4 ohm loads you now have 2 ohms. They do not multiply, they half instead. You’re going to need an 8 ohm speaker as the factory one won’t get you there.

 

[ControlNode]

That’s not how ohms law works. With 2- 4 ohm loads you now have 2 ohms. They do not multiply, they half instead. You’re going to need an 8 ohm speaker as the factory one won’t get you there.

Well, I didn't wire them in parallel, that would have halved the ohm load to 2Ω, they are in series, which does add the ohms of each load in series, so 4Ω + 4Ω = 8Ω in this case. Electrical 101 there.

 

[Trigganometry]

Well, I didn't wire them in parallel, that would have halved the ohm load to 2Ω, they are in series, which does add the ohms of each load in series, so 4Ω + 4Ω = 8Ω in this case. Electrical 101 there.

Correct! My bad. I read what you said wrong.

 

[ControlNode]

Working on the bed lights that will be an extension of that new rear power distribution I'm adding.

Because I've mounted them in the rail for the tonneau cover I've added weatherproof plugs at the front of each rail for easy disconnect for removal if needed.

I'm not looking forward to dropping the head liner, but the easiest place to tap in but not alter the truck harness in any way is to tap into the wires where the trailer brake controller tapped inline at the high mount center brake light.

 

[Bsqrd]

Working on the power leads today.

The BJB before adding the new 50A (partly disassembled)

And after adding the new 50A.

Turns out that 2015 Fusion high junction battery box is more like the Ranger one than I realized. Once I took off the power input side with a 200 amp fuse on it, it's the same part. So, if you want to add this fuse and the needed studs for it buy a 2015 Fusion High Current Battery Junction box for $20 on ebay instead of the $120 sellers are wanting for one out of the Ranger. Kind of annoying design because to ever replace any of those fuses you will have to, after of course disconnecting the battery, take off the upper fuse box. Then you have to undo every wire to the high junction box so you can get it out so you can access the top (shielded even with flag open) nut to get the fuse out.

Love this! Would like to know a little more detail about this mod!

 

[ControlNode]

There’s a manufacturer that makes a third brake light mount for antennas it just moves back your light a couple inches and adds a spot to mount an Nmo or so239.

I saw those, but for now I'm fine with the magnet mount. Easy to remove if I need to, say a parking deck or something.

My son took a picture at dusk. Still just a hot wire test, but I like the light under the cover like that. Looking forward to finishing that wiring.

 

[ControlNode]

Love this! Would like to know a little more detail about this mod!

What specifics are you still wanting?

 

[Bsqrd]

What specifics are you still wanting?

Did you have to replace the whole busbar or is it just a matter of adding a new terminal? Maybe a short how-to about adding the new power tap.

 

[ControlNode]

Did you have to replace the whole busbar or is it just a matter of adding a new terminal? Maybe a short how-to about adding the new power tap.

If you look closely at the before and after pictures in that post you replied to, you you'll see it in the original that bus bar the top is the same. The only thing that I added were the two studs and the fuse. And of course the next step was the terminal and wire leading off of that.

I could not find a source from Ford easily with just those two studs that I needed and if I did it probably would have cost more than $20 I got that battery junction box from eBay for. Obviously disconnect the battery unplug all the connectors on that box. Fully remove the box and disassemble it to the point where you can get the bar out to get the stud underneath it. The box has slots for those studs to just slide into place in.

 

[Bsqrd]

If you look closely at the before and after pictures in that post you replied to, you you'll see it in the original that bus bar the top is the same. The only thing that I added were the two studs and the fuse. And of course the next step was the terminal and wire leading off of that.

I could not find a source from Ford easily with just those two studs that I needed and if I did it probably would have cost more than $20 I got that battery junction box for eBay for. Obviously disconnect the battery unplug all the connectors on that box. Fully remove the box and disassemble it to the point where you can get the bar out to get the stud underneath it. The box has slots those studs just slide into place in.

Thanks.

 

[ControlNode]

I never did show my high amp connector behind the rear seat. I did this so I can easily disconnect so I can service the rear power distribution box I added or any device off of that without disconnecting the battery.

I got the headliner pulled down and tapped into the bed light and brake light wires on the electronic brake controller wires so the trucks OE harnesses are not tapped or altered at all.

Routed that down the same route the EBC goes until it's below the seat belt reel.

Wires from the bed into the cab. And where the input and output wires get tied together on their way to the added rear juction box.

All of those go to a connector that will allow changes in the configuration without rerunning all the wires. The wire that looks blue in that picture is actually green.

 

[ControlNode]

I tested the new bed light load and it's only 2.5A. looking at the wiring diagrams the bed lights are already on a FET controller in the BCM so I decided to try directly them directly without a relay or other gate circuit. Works great. them without a relay or other gate circuit. Works great.

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