Canoe Carrying Solutions

[Deleted member 1634]

So, I took a leap today. Went to Academy to pick up a lock for my sons bike and came across a 13ft tandem Kayak. So I pulled the trigger. I quickly realized I needed to find a way to mount this behemoth to my truck ??. Luckily they offered a Bed Extender. I was pretty stoked about it until I got home and played with the mounting. With where Ford placed the antenna on the rear of the cab, how can using the bed extender in the overhead position work? I’d love to be able to used the bed space for gear/ tent/ cooler/ etc. It’s probably important to mention that I have a Tri-Fold Tonneau cover as well that I’d like to not have to remove. Does anyone have any photos/ write up of what they used to accomplish this? TIA! ??????

If you check out my post #2 on this thread, you'll see the over cab roof rack system we were using for awhile. Could maybe just get one bar and mount your kayak between that bar and your hitch rack. Otherwise a set of 2 bars is plenty sufficient to carry a kayak of that size. 13' is actually relatively short for a kayak, especially a tandem, so you shouldn't have much trouble finding something that works.

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[mtbikernate]

Grabbed a Yakima Overhaul HD for my Ranger today. My bike shop was running a trade-in program this week, so I had $1900 in store credits after bringing in a carload of bikes and parts. Turns out, they actually had this rack and the crossbars in stock, so I was able to pick one up sooner than I otherwise might, if I was paying cash for it.


0709201654 by Nate, on Flickr

I'll probably need to put the boat up there to ensure that I adjust the height correctly, so I'll do the adjusting later.

 

[RangerCat]

Where so you attach your front tie-downs (if you use them)? Do you go all the way to the front tow hooks or do you use an under the hood attachment? I don't use stern and bow tie-downs for short, low-speed trips but I want to take my boats out so state so I need to secure them better...

 

[RangerCat]

Grabbed a Yakima Overhaul HD for my Ranger today. My bike shop was running a trade-in program this week, so I had $1900 in store credits after bringing in a carload of bikes and parts. Turns out, they actually had this rack and the crossbars in stock, so I was able to pick one up sooner than I otherwise might, if I was paying cash for it.


0709201654 by Nate, on Flickr

I'll probably need to put the boat up there to ensure that I adjust the height correctly, so I'll do the adjusting later.

I have the Overhaul HD as well and I love it. I am concerned, however, about where ti anchor for the front (stern) tie downs. The curvature of the front of the hood makes me worry that an under the hood tie-down will damage the paint (as would a tie-down that anchors at the front tow loops).

 

[Don B.]

Where so you attach your front tie-downs (if you use them)? Do you go all the way to the front tow hooks or do you use an under the hood attachment? I don't use stern and bow tie-downs for short, low-speed trips but I want to take my boats out so state so I need to secure them better...

I make a loop of nylon webbing and melt a hole through the end. Raise the hood and remove one of the fender bolts, put the webbing on and replace the bolt. When not in use it is hidden under the hood. When needed, just let it hang out. As long as your boat is tied down properly, it won't damage the paint.
I always use a line on the front. I think it is really important when you can't see the front of your boat because its on an overlander type rack. When you see that line start to move, you know your boat is moving around up there.

 

[Bel-Biv]

Where so you attach your front tie-downs (if you use them)? Do you go all the way to the front tow hooks or do you use an under the hood attachment? I don't use stern and bow tie-downs for short, low-speed trips but I want to take my boats out so state so I need to secure them better...

The canoe is held in place primarily by straps across the top of the rack and canoe (obviously).

I use straps from the bed tie down points to secure the canoe from sliding forward or back.

I route the front straps over the cross bar of the rack and secure them to prevent the canoe from sliding forward. Routing the straps over the forward cross bar keep them off of the paint.

The rear straps can go over the tailgate, directly to the canoe which keeps it from sliding back.

Hard to explain, but pretty straightforward in reality. Maybe next time I load it up, I'll take a picture or two. I've taken a few highway trips with it secured this way and have had zero issues.

I bought soft straps to tie the bow down at the hood hinges, but didn't like how the straps contacted painted surfaces.

 

[landiscarrier]

This is what I use to haul by 12ft 11in kayak. I bought a truck to get away from having to lift it up on a roof! Ha.

 

[r1ch999999]

I make a loop of nylon webbing and melt a hole through the end. Raise the hood and remove one of the fender bolts, put the webbing on and replace the bolt. When not in use it is hidden under the hood. When needed, just let it hang out. As long as your boat is tied down properly, it won't damage the paint.
I always use a line on the front. I think it is really important when you can't see the front of your boat because its on an overlander type rack. When you see that line start to move, you know your boat is moving around up there.

They sell premade versions that use a small piece of PVC pipe to hold it under the hood. I like your idea, but what I really want is the hood tie downs that the Bronco has. Heck, I want the whole Bronco front end, but that's not going to happen.

 

[mtbikernate]

I have the Overhaul HD as well and I love it. I am concerned, however, about where ti anchor for the front (stern) tie downs. The curvature of the front of the hood makes me worry that an under the hood tie-down will damage the paint (as would a tie-down that anchors at the front tow loops).

I make a loop of nylon webbing and melt a hole through the end. Raise the hood and remove one of the fender bolts, put the webbing on and replace the bolt. When not in use it is hidden under the hood. When needed, just let it hang out. As long as your boat is tied down properly, it won't damage the paint.
I always use a line on the front. I think it is really important when you can't see the front of your boat because its on an overlander type rack. When you see that line start to move, you know your boat is moving around up there.

I do exactly the same, except I tie the front to both sides of the vehicle so secure it. Keeps it from flopping around, avoids the strap from continually loosening/tightening in that process. Have done it this way for better than 15yrs. I made my loops exactly the same the first time close to 15yrs ago, before I ever saw any pre-made ones.

I've always used a really soft tubular webbing that's used for rock climbing which you can buy at most respectable outdoor stores and have had zero trouble with paint, also.

The canoe is held in place primarily by straps across the top of the rack and canoe (obviously).
.........
I bought soft straps to tie the bow down at the hood hinges, but didn't like how the straps contacted painted surfaces.

Bow AND stern tie-downs in addition to the straps that hold the boat to the rack are the proper way to secure. It actually is possible for the boat to slide underneath the main straps, and the bow/stern straps prevent that. You can also get sideways wobble up front, and that can cause the whole apparatus to move around.

Sure, for short trips where you aren't on the interstate, you can get away without using bow/stern tie-downs if the rest of your method is good. But once you hit interstate speeds, you're much better off with the extra straps.

If you're REALLY concerned, get some paint protection film to put where the straps contact the paint.

 

[RangerCat]

I make a loop of nylon webbing and melt a hole through the end. Raise the hood and remove one of the fender bolts, put the webbing on and replace the bolt. When not in use it is hidden under the hood. When needed, just let it hang out. As long as your boat is tied down properly, it won't damage the paint.
I always use a line on the front. I think it is really important when you can't see the front of your boat because its on an overlander type rack. When you see that line start to move, you know your boat is moving around up there.

I am glad to hear that you have not had any paint damage. My boats sit in J-cradles and (hopefully) don't move at all so that anchor strap should not be rubbing.

I had never thought of the front line being an indicator that something is wrong up top but it totally makes sense. On short trips where I don't use the front line, I am constantly wondering how the boats are riding.

Thanks for your quick response!

 

[RangerCat]

The canoe is held in place primarily by straps across the top of the rack and canoe (obviously).

I use straps from the bed tie down points to secure the canoe from sliding forward or back.

I route the front straps over the cross bar of the rack and secure them to prevent the canoe from sliding forward. Routing the straps over the forward cross bar keep them off of the paint.

The rear straps can go over the tailgate, directly to the canoe which keeps it from sliding back.

Hard to explain, but pretty straightforward in reality. Maybe next time I load it up, I'll take a picture or two. I've taken a few highway trips with it secured this way and have had zero issues.

I bought soft straps to tie the bow down at the hood hinges, but didn't like how the straps contacted painted surfaces.

It sounds like you have a secure system. I use j-cradles so I am not worried about the side to side action. It's the flying off action that has me worried. I'm pretty picky about my paint job though so I definitely understand your aversion to the hood straps.

Thanks for your response!

 

[RangerCat]

I do exactly the same, except I tie the front to both sides of the vehicle so secure it. Keeps it from flopping around, avoids the strap from continually loosening/tightening in that process. Have done it this way for better than 15yrs. I made my loops exactly the same the first time close to 15yrs ago, before I ever saw any pre-made ones.

I've always used a really soft tubular webbing that's used for rock climbing which you can buy at most respectable outdoor stores and have had zero trouble with paint, also.



Bow AND stern tie-downs in addition to the straps that hold the boat to the rack are the proper way to secure. It actually is possible for the boat to slide underneath the main straps, and the bow/stern straps prevent that. You can also get sideways wobble up front, and that can cause the whole apparatus to move around.

Sure, for short trips where you aren't on the interstate, you can get away without using bow/stern tie-downs if the rest of your method is good. But once you hit interstate speeds, you're much better off with the extra straps.

If you're REALLY concerned, get some paint protection film to put where the straps contact the paint.

I'll have to venture down to out local outdoor store and see if they have some soft webbing. I bought a pre-made set of anchors but the webbing is quite firm. Paint protection file is not a bad idea either. Thanks for chiming in. I need all the help I can get!

 

[ldr01rl]

I adapted a used Adrian Steel rack to fit my Ranger. 14' canoes, no problem.

 

[Ken Klassen]

Grabbed a Yakima Overhaul HD for my Ranger today. My bike shop was running a trade-in program this week, so I had $1900 in store credits after bringing in a carload of bikes and parts. Turns out, they actually had this rack and the crossbars in stock, so I was able to pick one up sooner than I otherwise might, if I was paying cash for it.


0709201654 by Nate, on Flickr

I'll probably need to put the boat up there to ensure that I adjust the height correctly, so I'll do the adjusting later.

Just curious, what size are your cross bars (i.e., 55" or 60")?

 

[mtbikernate]

Just curious, what size are your cross bars (i.e., 55" or 60")?

I think I have the 60" bars.

My 16ft canoe has enough rocker (and a tall enough stem) that I also need some roof support when I carry it. Can't get the crossbars high enough for the canoe to clear the roof, actually. I learned this the morning I was supposed to leave for a trip and had to work out an alternate transport method in the meantime. Going forward, I've decided to use those ubiquitous foam blocks to protect my roof rather than buying towers and a crossbar or buying a roof platform.

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